The Victory is Reborn

[tenzing]

Some of you will already know that My Seafarer Victory really is my pride and joy. A few Months ago we got the Bejesus knocked out of us in a 40 knotter with broken Tabs and a good size beam sea. Things got very wet and I decided it was time to put a stop to the water leaking thru the clears and wrecking the electrics / wiring etc. My wife also finally got her way and kicked the boat out of the garage so we could start on an extension.
What I decided to do was;

- new stainless targa with slide out rear section and a couple of extra holders in the launcher(Dave Green at Yatala)
(The old one was recylcled and is getting a new life on a cruisecraft Regal.)
Dave also made me a seat frame and dressed up the holes in my duckboards from the placement of the Bennets Tabs

-New clears ( Brendan Watt at Southside Marine Trimming)
These are one piece Vybak clears sail tracked on to the windscreen with a double flap over the zipout section
He also replaced the old storm cover and made a boat cover as she will be living outdoors for the time being.

-Then the hard work started. Pete McCulloch (Grand Marlin) reinstated all of the electrics, doing the nearly impossible , re routing all of the wiring through the targa( including some very heavy duty drilling) replaced the broken tabs parts, repaired the anchor winch ,broken switches , corroded wires , and inefficient lights , and installed new aerial mounts.
To add insult to injury I got him to grab a new battery and multi battery charger to complete the refurb.

- Dave (Blackened) polished her all up and cleaned all the upholstery and dressed the old stainless.

I also gave the old rollers the flick and replaced them with red poly which doesnt mark her shiny glass.

Today we took her for a long run on the Goldy in surprisingly messy seas and did not get even the slightest hint of water through the screens. A Huge Success.

Thank you to everyone who has worked so hard to put the boat to right and I am grateful to everybody who has put up with my whingeing over the past ten weeks. I reserve particular thanks for Peter McCulloch who has indulged my every whim and done a more than I could have expected in often difficult circumstances.

Here are a couple of before and after pics.
Cheers Brendan

-

[Steeler]

Great result and looks real sweet

Steeler

[timddo]

I like ur passenger seat setup. - i'm going to copy it as it will add more space in the rear

[sleepygreg]

Now that is a sweet refurb. I like the new setup on the co - pilots side. Very versatile.

Greg

[Angla]

That's a great looking targa. They do a great job down Yatala way.

We should expext a few more fishing reports now.

Cheers
Chris

[pilchardjones]

beautiful boat. a great result. those clears are so neat.
steve

[thephotoguru]

Great looking Targa.

Excellent job all 'round by the looks of that.

thanks for posting the pics it give us a lot of great ideas to spend the next Thousand on.

Cheers Eamon

[tenzing]

I have certainly picked up a few things along the way,
re the passenger seat, be careful as the seat ends up considerably higher if there is room for an esky under. If it swivels you need to watch the fore/aft position ( even on a slider) and the swivel can be impeded by its sideways position.
This seat is on a swivel that locks every 45 degrees. I may disable that function so it turns more freely.

The biggest tip I could give anyone doing a new targa is to get a bloody great hole drilled under the main tube (through the base plate if there is one , and through the glass BEFORE mounting the steek work)so that the wiring can go straight up the guts of the thing. Mine admittedly uses the bottom plate of my old fold down top and they welded up all the holes and dressed it all up before welding the new tube on. this tip could save a full day or more of work,(and the sanity of the eletrician!) and make the result as neat and weather resistant as possible.

The clears are not really removeable now( not without a real sh##fight ), which suits me just fine , but the sailtrak on to the screens is a great idea.

The antennae being removeable also makes for easier srtorage and transport. We just use a padded red tube to store them inside the boat.

We also mounted an old camping dual flouro on the underside of the pull out roof with a length of cable coiled up sittting on top of the pull out and under the main roof. The light is an old fave and giges easily the best light around and is much kinder looking than led and much kess draw than halogen. I have it just cale tied on so I can reve the pull out section in winter.

I have also had a vinyl curtain made to sailtrak on under the transom and clip on to the sides with bungee cord to deflect spray from the battery area. I have not attached it yet as work was ongoing with the electrics.

Brendan

[tenzing]

The odd looking skin fitting is to cover the large old hole from the wiring.
It has been suggested that it may be useful as a filler for my fresh water tank which is under a bunk and currently filled from inside the cabin.

[Chimo]

Hi Brendan

How much spray do you get onto the batterys etc under the transom?
What size HP motor do you have? Foils? Tabs?

Reason I ask is that I used to get spray under my transom as the bum sat quite low and running angle in roughish seas with a side wind seemed to be just perfect to channel spray onto the batterys (4) and oil bottles (2). I seem to get a lot less since I fitted foils to both motors and trim tabs both of which have aided rear lift so the running angle is now flatter with less spray. Still get a little bit on a real bad day so any chance of some pic of your vinyl curtain on your sailtrack?

Cheers
Chimo

[tenzing]

Hi Brendan

How much spray do you get onto the batterys etc under the transom?
What size HP motor do you have? Foils? Tabs?

Reason I ask is that I used to get spray under my transom as the bum sat quite low and running angle in roughish seas with a side wind seemed to be just perfect to channel spray onto the batterys (4) and oil bottles (2). I seem to get a lot less since I fitted foils to both motors and trim tabs both of which have aided rear lift so the running angle is now flatter with less spray. Still get a little bit on a real bad day so any chance of some pic of your vinyl curtain on your sailtrack?

Cheers
Chimo
Yeah I know what you are saying.
The Bennets Tabs certainly aid in that department and the day we had our troubles we lost power to the tabs with the wrong one down and fully leaning with big wind and sea beam on . things got very wet.
The curtain is not fitted and not even delivered actually. I will flick up a pic when it is. A simple and cheap bit of kit though.
I imagine the rear bench seat does much the same but I leavwe mine out unless not fishing ( not that often).
I find that a lot of water comes from the live bait tank sloshing.
I have put a clear pastic tube into the plug hole and am experimenting with how tall to sut it off as a water level limt. The tank when full easdily spills ove the sides and so at half full is still about thirty litres which I think is enough.(less weight on rear corner too.

[Chimo]

Brendon

I had the same problem with the full live bait tank but fixed it years ago and forgot all about it until you just mentioned it.

I use different lengths of the thin walled irrigation pipe stuffed into the outlet instead of the plug and this is important; on top I fit a Tee with short lengths of the same pipe with the ends cut at 45degrees. The cut faces down and the result is a "flooded entry" trickle flow pipe with no vortex being formed so the flow rate is maximized, especially with two entrys. This is just a scaled down version of what I used to instal in a range of different sized water supply dams so the natural grassed spillway only ever had to deal with a few days flow during and immediately after storms. Imagine a large concrete tank installed with its top being the designed full supply level of the dam and the fllooded entry outlets installed near the bottom and given that 1 psi is generated by 1.31ft head consider the flow that issues from the end of outlet pipe downstream of the dam! Gold sluicing head which we also had to mitigat but thats another tale..:shocked:

If you use the 3/4 soft irrigation pipe it should be able to be slid into the outlet on the tank (if its the same as the Vagabond) so you get extra adjustment of the pipe as you can slide it down as you require. With a couple of upright pipes its easy to run a 1/3 or 1/2 or 2/3 or 3/4 full tank with this system

Cheers
Chimo

[Chimo]

Brendon
If the bennets give you further hassles Lenco has a kit to convert them to simple electric operation and you wont have to worry about pumping hydraulic oil any more. Would have been a dangerous pain to hav e one down and one up in a blow!

Cheers
Chimo

[tenzing]

Brendon
If the bennets give you further hassles Lenco has a kit to convert them to simple electric operation and you wont have to worry about pumping hydraulic oil any more. Would have been a dangerous pain to hav e one down and one up in a blow!

Cheers
Chimo
Cheers mate ,but I now have a new pump,switch ,everything but the rams really. So hoping thats it with those hey.
Brendan

[deckie]

Cracker of a targa coz it just sits so well with the lines...bends work in perfectly so hats off to the fabricator and anyone in on the design.

Beautiful looking rig.

Good home for some solar cells up there too.

[tenzing]

Brendon
If the bennets give you further hassles Lenco has a kit to convert them to simple electric operation and you wont have to worry about pumping hydraulic oil any more. Would have been a dangerous pain to hav e one down and one up in a blow!

Cheers
Chimo
sorry mate didnt see this earlier . Thats good thinking 99. I willgive it a try straight away.
Brendan

[neil_stessco]

The refurb looks great Brendan, i would stick with the bennet's over lenco's or upgrade to the ql's.

[tenzing]

Brendon

I had the same problem with the full live bait tank but fixed it years ago and forgot all about it until you just mentioned it.

I use different lengths of the thin walled irrigation pipe stuffed into the outlet instead of the plug and this is important; on top I fit a Tee with short lengths of the same pipe with the ends cut at 45degrees. The cut faces down and the result is a "flooded entry" trickle flow pipe with no vortex being formed so the flow rate is maximized, especially with two entrys. This is just a scaled down version of what I used to instal in a range of different sized water supply dams so the natural grassed spillway only ever had to deal with a few days flow during and immediately after storms. Imagine a large concrete tank installed with its top being the designed full supply level of the dam and the fllooded entry outlets installed near the bottom and given that 1 psi is generated by 1.31ft head consider the flow that issues from the end of outlet pipe downstream of the dam! Gold sluicing head which we also had to mitigat but thats another tale..:shocked:

If you use the 3/4 soft irrigation pipe it should be able to be slid into the outlet on the tank (if its the same as the Vagabond) so you get extra adjustment of the pipe as you can slide it down as you require. With a couple of upright pipes its easy to run a 1/3 or 1/2 or 2/3 or 3/4 full tank with this system

Cheers
Chimo
Sorry ,I meant to reply to this quote.
I am happy to stick with the Bennets