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View Full Version : Transom mountings...brackets, pads and adhesives



deckie
30-03-2010, 08:42 AM
Approximately 13 in every 10,000 are like me8-)...freaks that live in a 1970/80's world and stuck in our ways...whilst i dont have a shiney disco suit or mullet anymore i do still find it easier to view a b/w sounder and have led zeppelin instead of doof doof on the boat stereo....so i'm joining the new world and about 90% done with a 80's glass hull renovation and so far a completely screwless/boltless outer hull and deck fitout (apart from one bilge skin fitting). Just adhesives instead of the drill and hoping to keep it that way.

Got a virginal new transom to play with and would like to hear some advice or see some piccies of setups you're happy with for transducer mounts/brackets. I'll probably put a thru transom skin fitting for a baitpump and deckwash but really dont want to screw any transducer fittings in and ruin my record.

Been using plexus ma300 with plastics/baitboard material and its brilliant but epoxy seems like major overkill for this i would've thought...probond is the other i've been throwing on for anything involving polyester resins/glass and the hull but cant trust it for plastics and once again too heavy duty. Coz its a small simple broad flat surface area (poly pad) i was thinking something like sika might even be enough (even tho its not designed for high density plastics) and its at least removable without too much damage....anyone tried it or what did you use ? Obviously must be fit for below waterline work...and able to stick polyethlene/baitboard/nylon/teflon material to gelcoat or maybe stainless brackets to gelcoat with a bit of a rough up.

Also...are there any off the rack adjustable trannie brackets/ mounts that u reckon work really well that could be glued not screwed ? Might need one each side as i'd like the option of a second sounder by keeping the old one that still works a treat and running a different frequency new one.

Any ideas or the best mounting/brackets to keep water disturbance down at speed appreciated. The old trannie and paddle wheel were simply screwed in and worked well at speed but it might have been a lucky shot...i'd like it adjustable if i can this time round.

cheers and thanx for your time
Steve

TJ Bear
30-03-2010, 05:17 PM
How did you install cleats without through boltinng?

siegfried
30-03-2010, 05:38 PM
Shoot through hull ducer will keep it all tidy, what sounder?

deckie
30-03-2010, 06:52 PM
How did you install cleats without through boltinng?
ok ok ok ..cleats, s/s holders, bow roller and split bollards are of course screwed/bolted on...but they're just topside stuff and dont count :P. I'm talking deck/transom where things can rot or leak lol 8-).

It has been a glue frenzy so far...even the bracing underneath for the holders and cleats didnt escape the epoxy treatment. If bits start falling off and everything falls apart i'll report back 8-)

deckie
30-03-2010, 07:08 PM
Shoot through hull ducer will keep it all tidy, what sounder?
Nahh will be only close offshore plus bay stuff...down to maybe 120m max. Was thinking a 200hz transducer on the transom might be best for shallow work but any advice very welcome. Had good service from a few b/w lowrances over the yrs and my eye is just in tune with them i guess and know the menu's...creature of habit...put an lcd glare shield on the b/w screen and i'm happy as pig in. Been sniffing at the newer lowrance b/w's coz i still cant get used to colour sounders on mates boats...noone said i was smart :P

Lots of them around but most truly seem like overkill for my needs so i'll be looking for best resolution about an average of 20-30m depth.
Need to get some sort of pad thing going tho to screw an adjustable transducer bracket into coz i want to install again myself without screws into the transom.

dreemon
31-03-2010, 12:30 PM
For your tranny get a picture or vid of where you think you might put it while on the plane to see where the cleanest water is, and maybe just use a hardwood timber block and sikaflex it on,

I was using the sika the other day and had the tip clog and blow out the side of the nozzle so got the stuff all over my hands and tools, then found out I had no thinners in the ute !
it's all dry now and not even going to attempt to try and take it off , Cheers

deckie
31-03-2010, 06:55 PM
For your tranny get a picture or vid of where you think you might put it while on the plane to see where the cleanest water is, and maybe just use a hardwood timber block and sikaflex it on,

I was using the sika the other day and had the tip clog and blow out the side of the nozzle so got the stuff all over my hands and tools, then found out I had no thinners in the ute !
it's all dry now and not even going to attempt to try and take it off , Cheers

Yeah those tubes are designed to blow out thru the screw part of the nozzle...must be.
I guess a small chunk of teak or similar could work but was thinking high density plastic like baitboard material..white and cant rot About 10-12mm thick.. long enough for some tranny screws.
I took a photo of where the old tranny was before and it was excellent resolution and little clutter so might put one mounting pad each side in same spot...might end up a livey pump or second transducer.

What i might do is just test glueing the sika and some baitboard plastic somewhere on flowcoat to see if it works well.

Have u got some sort of adjustable bracket to make small height adjustments ? Maybe i should just glue a bracket straight onto the gelcoat.
Cheers
Steve

Jarrah Jack
31-03-2010, 08:31 PM
You;ll be getting more of a mechanical bond than a chemical bond so I would be going with the ruffed up surface idea. I don't think glueing a stainless transom slider bracket straight to the transom is a good idea and using the baitboard material is a better way to go.

Doing a test is also not a bad idea. The way you are doing it does not have to be permanent so keeping a watch on whichever solution you come up with should let you know if there are any probs developing before the transducer falls off,gets shattered by the prop, sucked into the water inlet, cooks the motor just as you are playing Hendrix, cracking a bourbon and rolling something.:)

dreemon
31-03-2010, 08:47 PM
Sounds good,
the the thick cutting board plasic would be great, as long as you allow the screws at least 12mm purchase, Iv'e sikad timber blocks to the inside for mounting epirb, etc and even to hold the tip of my right boot together.

all you need is typical prep, really clean and scratch the surfaces ,
I f you get a decent size pad you'll get your addjustments and more surface for the glue to grab, the tranny bracket would have alot less area ,

go with screws to hold the tranny on, on mine I sika and screwed into thr transom, and worked out good, Cheers