Trailer Coupling for electric/hydraulic setup

[O-3]

I have a boat trailer(Imported) with electric over hydraulic brakes that has a Yankee coupling on it.

I want to change it but not sure which coupling to get?

Do I need one that has a handbrake lever on it (pic attached) or can I operate the brakes from inside the car with the brake controller?

Sorry for the silly question but I have never had a trailer with these brakes/controller :-[

[O-3]

Pic of what I need to replace:

[oldboot]

That all depends on what is provided on the trailer as it stands.

do the brakes provide a cable facility to operate the hand brake?

If not there is no point having a hand brake on the hitch.

cheers

[O-3]

That all depends on what is provided on the trailer as it stands.

do the brakes provide a cable facility to operate the hand brake?

If not there is no point having a hand brake on the hitch.

That is part of my confusion. :-/
I imagine the brakes (Stainless Steel Kodiak Disc) can be operated by the handbrake if a handbrake kit is installed like below.

But why would you need that if the brakes are electric over hydraulic?
Can't they be operated from inside the car?

When I go to a trailer parts website and click on "electric couplings" they all have the handbrake on them?

[Moonlighter]

Hi O3

I think you might find that the couplings that come with the handbrake are for trailers that have override brakes (either hydraulic or cable actuated), not for those fitted with electric brakeaway versions.

So I suspect you will only need a suitably rated non-override coupling.

See the info below - these guys are expert on the US brakes and will be able to supply you with spares for yours as well as the advice you need.

Titan Trailer Brakes Pty Ltd
0Location: 16/26-34 Weippin St Cleveland, Brisbane Australia, 4163
Phone: (07) 3286 1199 Fax: (07) 3286 9333
Email:sales@titanbrakes.com.au (sales@titanbrakes.com.au)

Cheers ML

[O-3]

Thanks Moonlighter.

So can you confirm the brakes can be operated from the brake controller?

[Moonlighter]

Not expert but yes, I believe that is true.

ML

[oldboot]

OK lets clear up some confusion.

the brakes on the trailer will operate from the electronic brake controller while connected to the vehicle.

the point of the hand brake is so the brakes can be used to hold the trailer when the trailer is not connected to the vehicle......

couplings with a hand brake function are available in two forms.

the type for use with over riding brakes and the type for use with electric or othere non over ride brakes.

simple question

is there a cable or a lever for connection of a cable comming off the brake assembly on the wheel......if so you can fit a hand brake.

why would you want a hand brake...so you can stop or hold the trailer when it isnt connected to the car.
for example
I back my boat most of the way down the driveway.....like 30 or more meters....getting the boat into final position I find it easier to un hitch and run it down the last few meters on the brakes.

having said that...I wont leave the hand brake on for any length of time or rely on it.

cheers

[O-3]

Thanks Oldboot...that clears things up for me. :D

I was unsure if the handbrake on the coupling needs to be used when driving the boat on/off off the trailer but you mention that can be controlled from the brake controller itself.

My situation doesn't require the brakes to operate whilst the trailer is off the car so I will just go with a standard coupling without the handbrake function.
I haven't noticed any levers or cables coming off of the brakes themselves anyway, although there may be.


Thanks for your help ;D

[wrxhoon]

You don't say what kind of actuator you have but looking at your trailer looks like you have a 'Brakerite" actuator and looks like your trailer is fitted with brakeaway that has a battery. If thats so as son as you pull the switch ( I can't see it on the pic but I can see the battery) the hydraulic barkes will go on and the little battery will keep them on . Australian ADR specifies they must be able to stay on for a minimum of 15 minutes to do that you have to have a minimum 9 amh battery . The battery box looks to small to have a 9 amh battery , to me looks like you have a little 5 amh battery . That battery ( if its only 5 amh ) will not work for 15 minutes.

Is the trailer complied and registered ? Why do you want to change the coupling? These USA couplings are pressed steel and they are very good , they will not break , unlike the ones sold here ( Chinese) that are cast and I have seen them break. I can't see if the coupling is a surge coupling , if it is then you have to change it or modify it .
If you are in Sydney I can help you out .

By using a handbrake coupling is not going to achieve anything because you don't have mechanical brakes on the trailer . If you want a parking brake you need a pair of mechanical calipers on one axle , then you use that coupling ( picured) to operate them .
Under current ADR you must have a parking brake but if the trailer is already registered , I wouldn't worry about it because you can apply the brakes by pulling the brake away switch . If not registered , some inspectors won't worry about the parking brake rule in your case.

Regardles of parking brake you can operate the brakes from the cabin of your car as long as you have the controller ( you must have one to be roadworthy when towing a trailer with a GVM of 2000+ kg ).

So you have Kodiak S/S rotors , calipers and hubs ? If yes you have the best braking set up for saltwater you can buy , I have the same in my trailer , not cheap but will need very little maintanence.

[O-3]

Thanks for the info Hoon.


The battery box looks to small to have a 9 amh battery , to me looks like you have a little 5 amh battery . That battery ( if its only 5 amh ) will not work for 15 minutes.

Yes it is a Brakerite with breakaway and a battery, I will check what type the battery is Tomorrow and see if I need to change it over.



Is the trailer complied and registered ? Why do you want to change the coupling? These USA couplings are pressed steel and they are very good , they will not break , unlike the ones sold here ( Chinese) that are cast and I have seen them break. I can't see if the coupling is a surge coupling , if it is then you have to change it or modify it .
If you are in Sydney I can help you out .

The trailer is not registered and has to be inspected which is why I want to change the coupling.
Also was not aware that the pressed couplings are better than the cast ones, I thought they looked a bit flimsy. :D

Regardless, Are you suggesting I will get through the inspection with that coupling here in SA?


So you have Kodiak S/S rotors , calipers and hubs ? If yes you have the best braking set up for saltwater you can buy , I have the same in my trailer , not cheap but will need very little maintanence.

Yes mate, have SS kodiaks on all four wheels, torsion axels etc...I wanted as little maintenance as possible.

Another question....Should I be washing the brakes with freshwater straight after launching?....(when I get round to launching that is :P )

[O-3]

You don't say what kind of actuator you have but looking at your trailer looks like you have a 'Brakerite" actuator and looks like your trailer is fitted with brakeaway that has a battery.

Hoon....just found a better pic of battery etc:

[oldboot]

If the existsing coupling is adequate... fine.

If you are going to replace..... get an australian made Trigg Bros coupling...they are so much better than the cheap chineese coppies.....and if you buy in the right place not much dearer......and made in good old SA.

cheers

[wrxhoon]

The trailer is not registered and has to be inspected which is why I want to change the coupling.
Also was not aware that the pressed couplings are better than the cast ones, I thought they looked a bit flimsy. :D

Regardless, Are you suggesting I will get through the inspection with that coupling here in SA?

The pressed steel coupling is much stronger than cast, you won't break one, at worse it will bend, cast in the same situation will break.
I have to see a close pic of your coupling to tell you if it will pass, it can't be a surge coupling and it has to be rated ( she will have it on the top) to the trailer GVM .
It makes no difference in what state you are , this is ADR , Australia wide .

Looking at a close up on the battery box it looks to small to house a 9 amp hour battery , I think you will find she has a 5 amh . The inspector will not leave the brakes on for 15 minutes so he will not know if she will hold them on for 15 minutes. What they do in USA is use 2 5 hour batteries, if you want to use a bigger batetry you have to use a bigger box.
Another ADR rule, you must have something in the car to show if your battery is charged and you need some trickle charger to charge the little battery when connected to the tow vehicle. Again the inspector may not know to check this.

There are a few other things you have to do to the trailer to pass as well : Lights , don't comply, wirring doesn't comply , in USA they use the body of the trailer for the negative and the tow ball as a connection to the car , in Australia you need a wire from the car . You need some reflectors , about 6 amber , 2 red at the rear and 2 white at the front of the guards. at least 2 clearence lights and maybe mudfalps ( if the guards are not low enough) .and a number plate light ( you can use a combo). Weighbridge ticket and a trailer plate.
The trailer can not be any wider than 2.5 mtrs at its widest part.
There are other measurments that she has to comply with but USA built trailers are complient with them .

Whats the GVM? What kind of boat are you going to put on it?

Regardless of material, you should always wash the trailer and the brakes/wheels with fresh water, if you are in Adelaide your water is not that fresh !!!

I can see you have a Chinese flexible ( rubber ) brake line!!! It should be fine , its just me I don't like anything Chinese.

[O-3]

have to see a close pic of your coupling to tell you if it will pass

Didn't get a chance to check out the trailer Today so will have to go down Tomorrow and have a look at the battery and the coupling.


Whats the GVM? What kind of boat are you going to put on it?

GVM is 6000lbs and it has a 20 foot walkaround sitting on it.

Thanks for all the great info Hoon, much appreciated.

[peterbo3]

Hi O-3,
US couplings are normally set up to sit on a 2 inch or larger towball. A 2 inch ball is a tad bigger than the 50mm balls used here. There is not a lot in it but you will have a constant clunk every time you take off or brake if you fit a 50mm ball.
If the US hitch is compliant & you are going to keep it, it may be worth the cost of getting a 2 inch ball from the US.

[wrxhoon]

Hi O-3,
US couplings are normally set up to sit on a 2 inch or larger towball. A 2 inch ball is a tad bigger than the 50mm balls used here. There is not a lot in it but you will have a constant clunk every time you take off or brake if you fit a 50mm ball.
If the US hitch is compliant & you are going to keep it, it may be worth the cost of getting a 2 inch ball from the US.


You don't need a 2" ball mate , you can adjust the coupling if you like, I use a 2" and a 50mm in mine at different times no problem or clunk at all as long as you have a fixed coupling , not a surge one.

If you want to get a 2" ball from USA they are only $10 but they have a 1" shank so it won't fit on your Aussie gooseneck .

I have a USA built gooseneck ( ballmount in USA lingo) that I use in my LC200, its all aircraft grade billet alloy with a 14,000 capacity . It automaticaly locks in the normal 2" receiver we have here, you take the key out and noone can pinch it !! I have another one the same but not self locking, with a pin like we have here . The third one I use is a self locking and ajustable to vatious heights as I tow different trailers at times . This one has 2 balls a 2" on one side and a 2 5/16" on the other side.

All the heavy duty ballmounts are made of this in USA, these days they only use steel ( welded like we do here ) for lower capacity .


2"=50.8 mm .

[boatboy50]

Hey,

Start another thread with pics and details of the boat. I'm Interested!

Hoon, the coupliung will be illegal technically because it is not a 50mm ball coupling, it will be a 2". This deems it illegal in Oz to my understanding.

I do understand there is hundreds of them registered illegally in oz, but if you ever have an accident they will pin it as a contributor and you could be in big trouble.

Darren

[wrxhoon]

Hey,

Start another thread with pics and details of the boat. I'm Interested!

Hoon, the coupliung will be illegal technically because it is not a 50mm ball coupling, it will be a 2". This deems it illegal in Oz to my understanding.

I do understand there is hundreds of them registered illegally in oz, but if you ever have an accident they will pin it as a contributor and you could be in big trouble.

Darren


I don't get it Darren , what are you interested in the boat ? Gooseneck?

AS far as the coupling its not ilegal at all if you go to :

Vehicle Standard (Australian Design Rule 62/02 –
Mechanical Connections Between Vehicles) 2007 15-1-6 it says :
Class A50-X non-standard 50 mm coupling balls and brackets if the
manufacturer can demonstrate that they can be reliably coupled to class B
coupling heads fitted to the drawbar of trailers for connecting to the 50
mm diameter coupling ball;
Federal


In any case a lot of US built couplings have printed on them : Adjust to fit to a 50mm ball.. So they are made to fit both 2" and 50mm balls .

Don't forget you can use a bigger than 50mm coupling and ball as well.


In any case I trust a US built coupling rather than a Chinese made cast coupling anyday ... As said before I have seen them break !!!!

There are a lot of trailers/vehicles on the road that don't comly with ADR , yes even some new cars sold here don't coply with all ADRS. AS long as they have been inspected and approved by TRA they are deemed to be legal ..

The other thing is not all ADR rules are simple to understand and can intepreted differently .

[O-3]

Hi O-3,
US couplings are normally set up to sit on a 2 inch or larger towball. A 2 inch ball is a tad bigger than the 50mm balls used here. There is not a lot in it but you will have a constant clunk every time you take off or brake if you fit a 50mm ball.
If the US hitch is compliant & you are going to keep it, it may be worth the cost of getting a 2 inch ball from the US.

Thanks Mate, I actually put a 2inch ball on to get the boat home but like Hoon mentions the shank is smaller than the hole in my gooseneck so I won't be leaving it on there.


, to me looks like you have a little 5 amh battery .

You were right, pic attached.(made in your favourite place too ;D )

Also better pics of the coupling attached.


Start another thread with pics and details of the boat. I'm Interested!
Will do Dazz as soon as I get it splashed. Won't be for a while because it has to go in for all the electronics/ tabs etc to get fitted.

[oldboot]

Regardless of what is written on the coupling, or what anybody thinks.

If the coupling is not built and approved to australian standards, or the manufacturer of the coupling (no one else) can provide documentation that it complies with Australian standards.....it simply is not legal.

and insurance companies love non compliant couplings on trailers.

As I have mentioned before...I used to do some work for an auctioneer that did the damaged vehicle auctions for a major insurance company........that insurance company held a horse float for years ( the court case dragged on that long) as evidence over a claim with a faulty coupling issue.

As for prefeering an pressed steel " American item" over a chineese part......is it made in america or " assembled in mexico" or guatamala.....To stamp "Made in the USA" ya dont have to do all that much in the USA.

No body is recomending a chineese coupling ( the better ones of which are not bad anyway)

For a couple of hundred bucks, you can replace the coupling with a good quality COMPLIANT Austraian made coupling.....

my price list says a $72.75 plus gst for a 3.5 tonne electric brake coupling with hand brake lever( if you don't want the lever take it off), trivalent coated... that is australian.....not everybody will buy that well but it gives an indication... expect to pay arround $100 retail

We are talking about a multi thousand $$$$$ imported boat..why are we argunig about a couple of hundred $$$

you will probaly have to get a coupling plate welded to the drawbar for the coupling to bolt too.

Yes you can use a bigger coupling than a 50mm ball........from what I remember not all of those larger format couplings are compliant ( and therefore legal) either.

anybody with one of these trailers would be wise to do a bit of reading...in particular get a coppy of "VSB 1" and compere what it says with the trailer in front of you.

There is lots of information here www.alltrailerspares.com.au , there is a link there to VSB1....look in the technical and ADR links.
Other manufacturers and others also provide lots off good information, but the ATS site is the most convienient and easiest to read....
www.vehiclecomponents.com has some interesting stuff.

your local transport department will have suff available too.

cheers

[wrxhoon]

[quote=O-3;1137172]Thanks Mate, I actually put a 2inch ball on to get the boat home but like Hoon mentions the shank is smaller than the hole in my gooseneck so I won't be leaving it on there.


A 2' ball in USA has bigger shank (1" ) than our 50mm balls that have 7/8".


Y
ou were right, pic attached.(made in your favourite place too ;D )

Also better pics of the coupling attached.Its only a battery mate, it doesn't matter .


The coupling you have only has 3500 lb capacity, only good for trailer with 3500 lb GVM no more . I thought your trailer is over 2000 kg, if under 2000 kg you don't need electric brakes , if over you need another coupling .

[O-3]

A 2' ball in USA has bigger shank (1" ) than our 50mm balls that have 7/8

The ones I bought from the US look about 3/4, smaller than my Aussie one.


I thought your trailer is over 2000 kg, if under 2000 kg you don't need electric brakes , if over you need another coupling .

BMT (dry) should be around 2000kg.

I'll just get a new coupling.

[wrxhoon]

[quote=O-3;1138067]The ones I bought from the US look about 3/4, smaller than my Aussie one.

The 3/4 shank balls are for light trailers ( max 3500 lb I think)




BMT (dry) should be around 2000kg.


It doen't matter how much she will be with the your boat on , its the GVM of the trailer that matters!!! Example: You may have a trailer with 2500 kg GVM, the trailer weighs 500 kg and you put a boat on the weighs 1000 , all up well under 2000 kg , your trailer must comply with the 2500 kg regs.

I can't understand why you have a 3500 lb coupling on this trailer , the only reason I can think of , you ordered this trailer like that . I wouldn't use that coupling , get a new one that is rated at least to your trailers GVM .

[O-3]

@oldboot. Thanks for all your info and the link to VSB1.


you will probaly have to get a coupling plate welded to the drawbar for the coupling to bolt too.

Was thinking about this too.

I could either just drill new holes in the top and bottom of the RHS or weld some type of plate to the RHS.

Will have to give it some more thought.

[O-3]

I can't understand why you have a 3500 lb coupling on this trailer , the only reason I can think of , you ordered this trailer like that . I wouldn't use that coupling , get a new one that is rated at least to your trailers GVM .

There was no discussion of the coupling. I gave them the model/weight of the boat and they gave me a trailer to suit with the brakes I specified.

I agree...seems strange to put that puny coupling on the trailer.