Bow mount sounders again

[Toddy_again]

Hello all.I am looking at putting my sounder on the bow mount and I am wondering if anybody can post a pic or 2 of how they have organised the wires so they give you as little grief as possible.

Thanks

Toddy

[leelee]

Hi Mate.

It makes it much easier of you have a cable steer unit because normally you can't turn them more then 360-38 degrees depending on the model.

The first pics shows the cable running along the length of the shaft.

the second pics shows, sort of, that the tranducer cable is cable tied to the cables and wires that come out of the head and it follows it all the way down to the foot pedal.

If you have a servo steer the turn is unlimited and you can tangle, twist and damage cables quite easily.

Here is how mine is done -

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z243/leelee_fishing/P1010109.jpg

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z243/leelee_fishing/P1010111.jpg

Cheers

Lee

[Toddy_again]

Thanks for taking the time to do that Lee.Yeah I have a riptide so I would be interested in how others have done it as well and by the sounds of things you have to be careful.

Thanks mate.

Toddy

[Xtreme]

Hi Toddy,

I have a 80lb Terova Riptide and I've done it exactly per Leelee's pics.

Just run the transducer cable through the middle of the coiled cable between the head and the base from the top of the motor shaft.

I have the power on an Anderson plug and the transucer lead through a bulkhead into the deck. Only issue is you need to undo the bulkheads when you remove the motor.

Pic attached

Steve

[BaitThrower]

leelee... that looks a bit like a garmin transducer? Does it still work ok with all those deep scratches on the bottom of it? I would have thought it might give funny readings at times... You can wet sand the bottom surface of these to smooth them off a little for better performance...

[leelee]

leelee... that looks a bit like a garmin transducer? Does it still work ok with all those deep scratches on the bottom of it? I would have thought it might give funny readings at times... You can wet sand the bottom surface of these to smooth them off a little for better performance...

Nope its a lowrance 50/200 unit and I kow its got aheap of scratches but the lms unit it is hooked up to has crystal clear returns. I was going to take the sanding option only when the lack or performance was visible on the screen.

Cheers

Lee

[Toddy_again]

Hi Toddy,

I have a 80lb Terova Riptide and I've done it exactly per Leelee's pics.

Just run the transducer cable through the middle of the coiled cable between the head and the base from the top of the motor shaft.

I have the power on an Anderson plug and the transucer lead through a bulkhead into the deck. Only issue is you need to undo the bulkheads when you remove the motor.

Pic attached

Steve


Thanks mate thats pretty much how I had pictured it myself.


Toddy

[tim barra master]

Hi Toddy,

I have a 80lb Terova Riptide and I've done it exactly per Leelee's pics.

Just run the transducer cable through the middle of the coiled cable between the head and the base from the top of the motor shaft.

I have the power on an Anderson plug and the transucer lead through a bulkhead into the deck. Only issue is you need to undo the bulkheads when you remove the motor.

Pic attached

Steve
Steve i did pretty much the same as you only i brought the cable up the grouve in the minnkota leg and through the turning motor this is easily done by undoing the head unit pulling the shaft out of the turning motor feed the transducer plug through the motor then put the minkota back together about ten miniuts work and no hassles of wrapping up the transducer lead again also it looks heaps better
I the used white stickerflex to secure the cable to the shaft
I run a 900 series side imiging unit on mine and power comes from the anderson plug via voltage reducer so when i remove the lecky the souder comes with it
Hey get a i pilot BLOODY UNREAL

[Xtreme]

Hey Tim,

Thanks for the tip. Have you had any abraison issues on the cable where it runs in the operating position. If not, I am heading out to make that mod now.

(I am on transducer #2 and looking down the barrel of #3 as deckies have cut or damaged the cable when deploying.)

I saw the I-Pilot in mag recently. They really look the goods and ideal for bay snapper drifts....Do you have one yet?

If Toddy is reading this, I'd do as Tim has suggested as you need to be careful not to jam the cable when deploying. OK if just you but the occassional deckie has a good chance of damaging the cable.

[Toddy_again]

Steve i did pretty much the same as you only i brought the cable up the grouve in the minnkota leg and through the turning motor this is easily done by undoing the head unit pulling the shaft out of the turning motor feed the transducer plug through the motor then put the minkota back together about ten miniuts work and no hassles of wrapping up the transducer lead again also it looks heaps better
I the used white stickerflex to secure the cable to the shaft
I run a 900 series side imiging unit on mine and power comes from the anderson plug via voltage reducer so when i remove the lecky the souder comes with it
Hey get a i pilot BLOODY UNREAL


Gday Tim....can I be a pain in the arse and ask for a couple of photos?Deployed and not.

Thanks.

Toddy

[Toddy_again]

Hey Tim,

Thanks for the tip. Have you had any abraison issues on the cable where it runs in the operating position. If not, I am heading out to make that mod now.

(I am on transducer #2 and looking down the barrel of #3 as deckies have cut or damaged the cable when deploying.)

I saw the I-Pilot in mag recently. They really look the goods and ideal for bay snapper drifts....Do you have one yet?

If Toddy is reading this, I'd do as Tim has suggested as you need to be careful not to jam the cable when deploying. OK if just you but the occassional deckie has a good chance of damaging the cable.


Yeah thats why I want to try and think it through properly so as it doesnt get damaged.
You mentioned the ipilot...did you get it from OS?If so where?How much?Tell me more.:)

Cheers

Toddy

[tim barra master]

I shall do some photos for you guys today
I got my i pilot from a mate who just came back from the states and it works a treat only its black not white have a look on ebuyers world and pay via paypal only.

[tim barra master]

I just inspected the whole cable its had about 50 trips that probably means 500 deploys on this setup and no issues to speak of I think the sikaflex and good cable ties was the trick unless you guys didnt run the cable back down through the susy coil
I have no problem other than a bit of transducer cable on the deck when its deployed as the susi coil is relaxed but that is very easily taken care of you will also need this incase the motor does a 780 deg turn not real good for both mikota cable and trany cable
I strongly recomend thi set up only thing that does concern me is there is the posability of a tree stick geting between the motor bowl and the cable destroying the cable As i fish the lakes a bit for this reason i deploy a tiller lecky if i get into lantana ect with the bowy
The i pilot is as good as expected Although i will miss the co pilot remote on my rod
The new remote requires a stong finger as well as the butons are firm to say the least
Another small downer the display canot be read with polarised glasses on
But to sum it up Its the greatest thing minnkota has let me play with yet.
sorry the photos arnt brilliant did not want to push the boat out for the picks

[tim barra master]

Toddy i have seen plenty of juys get some alloy rhs attach a clamp on one end that would clamp to a bow rail or similar( i used to use a ram ball type as if the rhs rod struck something the setup had some forgivenes) the transducer on the other and simply mount it from the bow so the tranny is about a foot underwater run the cable up through the rhs simple cheep efective
also if like me you might be running a side imiging unit no wories about loosing track of some structure when the motor turns the wrong way at the wrong moment.
if you have a plastic or glass boat mount the transducer in the hull in the keel or similar
I have also got a through hull transducer on another boat its a punt so no problem getting a good surface Only reson i have not done this this time is because of the hornets odd keel setup
room for a factory mod Quintrex if your listening.
hope we have enspired a decent stup for you good luck

[Toddy_again]

Thanks all for posting.I will post a pic up of what I have done in the next couple of days but your feedback and pics have me pointed in the right direction.


Toddy

[leelee]

Just remeber that when you mount the transdcuer with the bracket its a good idea to put a strip of rubber or foam bwteen the motor and the bracket and clamp. Allows you to really tighten in up and helps everything grip and does not enable to clamp to rotate and it also stops salt build up and corrosion occuring.

Have a look at my first pic and you can see.

Cheers

Lee

[Toddy_again]

Just remeber that when you mount the transdcuer with the bracket its a good idea to put a strip of rubber or foam bwteen the motor and the bracket and clamp. Allows you to really tighten in up and helps everything grip and does not enable to clamp to rotate and it also stops salt build up and corrosion occuring.

Have a look at my first pic and you can see.

Cheers

Lee

Bloody hell Lee its way to late for that.You will see when I put photos up.;D

Toddy

[tim barra master]

I used sickerfrex to sucure my transducer braket to the armature of the motor It will also stop water getting between causing corosion I use a clamp only as a backup as if the unit comes of the prop will eat it as its up currant the 900 series transducers are 300-700 dollars depending on which one.
We cant wait Toddy
on the dege of out seats to see what you come up with.
Are you going to get a i pilot?

[Toddy_again]

I used sickerfrex to sucure my transducer braket to the armature of the motor It will also stop water getting between causing corosion I use a clamp only as a backup as if the unit comes of the prop will eat it as its up currant the 900 series transducers are 300-700 dollars depending on which one.
We cant wait Toddy
on the dege of out seats to see what you come up with.
Are you going to get a i pilot?


Hahaha....nothing special.Will go and take some pics now.
No ipilot just yet...just spemt 2 gorillas on a new sounder so it wont be happening for a while.
Back in a minute.;D

[Toddy_again]

I used sickerfrex to sucure my transducer braket to the armature of the motor It will also stop water getting between causing corosion I use a clamp only as a backup as if the unit comes of the prop will eat it as its up currant the 900 series transducers are 300-700 dollars depending on which one.
We cant wait Toddy
on the dege of out seats to see what you come up with.
Are you going to get a i pilot?


For a while now I have had the bow mount transducer down the back with the other one side by side.At first I thought it was a good idea...but in time it gave me the shits.It used to roostertail and water hit the motor and the two sounders(535 Humminbird on the bow and Lowrance on the back) just wouldnt play nicely together.So that meant turn one off and one on.It did have the advantage in that I could take the electric off and not have to worry about the transducer though.
Well I went and bought a 798 and as you probably know the transducer is twice as wide as the Lowrance.So I thought bugger it I will put the transducer up the front and see how it goes.The pics show pretty much the same as you blokes have done it really.
You will also see that my Minn Kota has seen plenty of better days.;D
The way its set up I can still put my travel cover on but if I need to take the electric off I have to undo the Humminbird mounting bracket.Its a bit of a pain in the arse but considering its probably been off 3 or 4 times in the last 6 years its not that much of a drama.
I hope the pics are clear enough.
Thanks everyone for the help.:)

Toddy