Cannot get out chinese outer bearings in new wheel hubs!

[ozscott]

Hi all - kust got new hubs - ford bearings. It came with the inner bearings courtesy of China - the whole assembly is made there. I got it from Active Fabrications at Beenleigh. The trouble is the larger of the 2 outer bearings is impossible to get out because it is flush with the casting, unlike the original hub where there is a mm or 2 lip. I have tried screw drivers to divet into the casting to try and get onto it, but cannot. I want to put in US Timkin bearings, so should I not bother with replacing the outer (and just accept that down the track its a throw away hub (about $50 each galved) and use the Timkin inner bearings?

Cheers

[wags on the water]

If you have a welder, run a bead around the inside. This will shrink the brg. Try it and see how you go.

Cheers,
Wags

[zigfreed]

Mate i would take them back and get a refund or get the supplier to remove the bearing then grind some 1/4 point access slots with a small die grinder.

Whatever you do, don't interchange sets of inner and outer race cone bearings, that is just asking for trouble and a big no no in the world of engineering. You could just about bet your left nut that the chinese bearings have a slighty different cone angle to the Timken one. This would lead to a guarateed disaster.

Wags is also on the money, just depends how good you are with the welder

Cheers

Mick

[ozscott]

Thanks gents as always good advice. With a lot of mucking around I got them out and the Timken are in...and have a greater lip so thy must be thicker diameter cones....so no more probs next time. Thanks again and thanks to Wags for his kind offer via PM.

Cheers

[whiteman]

I'd get the Chinese stuff out. You could try punching directly on to the face of the cone as these cheapies are prone to breaking under a bit of pressure. And that is why these cheap bearings fail - well before sea water gets to them.

[Chimo]

Hi Ozscott

Now that its all back together ie the hubs /rotors, how true did they spin. It would be nice to hear that the suppliers have got their act together and you didn't have to get the new ones machined.

Have things got better, are they true?

Cheers
Chimo

[noboatyet]

It must be pretty common with new hubs at the moment. I've just done the bearings on my tandem and when I went to replace 2 bearings I had the same issue. Out with the welder and then filed a couple of grooves so I could knock them out next time. Glad I wasn't trying to do it on the side of the road!!!
Cheers

Muzz

[wags on the water]

Thanks gents as always good advice. With a lot of mucking around I got them out and the Timken are in...and have a greater lip so thy must be thicker diameter cones....so no more probs next time. Thanks again and thanks to Wags for his kind offer via PM.

Cheers


No problem. Happy to offer my assistance.

Cheers

[ozscott]

Chimo - they are spinning nicely with only the most minor variation and that could just be the way the pads are sitting (ie loose pads type callipers), and with only very modest pressure (the pads are just touching as I had adjusted them up) you can spin the hub and it spins true touching the same all the way round. I am stoked with that.

I am going to take the old girl out tomorrow so I will check it all then, but first signs are impressive and the set up is so much more slick its crazy...I will take some pictures. I put a thin coating of fishoil on the inside of the hubs around the studs and light grease on the threaded section of the studs (making sure no excess for the disc!) and that has given her some extra time when the salt eventually starts attacking the plating on the studs and the galv on the hub.

Thanks again all.

Cheers

[gr hilly]

you got a good boat there mate i was with beenleigh air sea rescue in the 80s crossed the pin bar daily doing bar reports and rescue's and i loved the 2 seafarers we had
tight lines hilly

[ozscott]

Thanks mate - the transom plate says 84 but I think its a late 70s to early 80's - the air sea and coast guard used to use them.

Cheers mate and thanks for the comment.

[wrxhoon]

light grease on the threaded section of the studs (making sure no excess for the disc!) and that has given her some extra time when the salt eventually starts attacking the plating on the studs and the galv on the hub.



If you want your studs to stay rust free , toss the open nuts, use a full captive nut and never seize on the thread, the water will never get in and they will stay rust free for many years to come. Not a good idea to use grease on the thread ..

[ozscott]

Thanks mate - I dont get you about captive nuts on the wheel studs....

Also, why isnt grease good...as long as they are tight I have greased wheel studs for years and it stopped them rusting and they didnt undo by themselves.

Cheers

[wrxhoon]

Thanks mate - I dont get you about captive nuts on the wheel studs....

Also, why isnt grease good...as long as they are tight I have greased wheel studs for years and it stopped them rusting and they didnt undo by themselves.

Cheers

They are nuts that have opening on one side, the other side is blocked , they need to be a little longer than the studs so they won't bottom out, even when the nout gets rusty the stud is rust free.

Grease on wheelnuts is a no-no, because the nuts can come undone, I know some people use it and no problems but you only need one wheel to come off, whe risk it? Use never seize on all your nuts on the trailer and the engine bolts on the alloy , years later they come off as if you just put them on this minute .

If you have Ford studs (1/2 inch ) you can buy them anywhere for a couple $ each. If you have old Holden studs 7/16 , they are not as readily available.

I think you said you just replaced your hubs with Ford .

[ozscott]

Thanks mate - they are HT stud pattern but with Ford bearings. I didnt know you could get captives that long (they would need to be an inch on my wheels. I too use antiseize on head bolts and the like, particularly those going through the water jackets, but hadnt thought about wheel nuts and studs.

Cheers

[wrxhoon]

You need old Torana alloy wheel nuts , I have a few but not 20.
I have the same hubs, studs on my twin Jetski trailer too.

[honda900]

these are the wheel nuts that have been mentioned.

http://www.allstatestrailerspares.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=628&osCsid=55233a96884da544bbad1bee0aa9ee0c

Regards
HOnda.