battery isolator switch

[Corsie]

Has anyone else had issues with their battery isolator switch?
I have one of the simple removable plastic key style switches. However, it has started to have issues with not having an uninterrupted power supply when in the ON position. Are these type of isolators just not reliable, and if so, can anyone recommend a reliable switch which isn’t likely to let me down at the wrong time?

[whiteman]

I've got a simple a, a+b, b, off dial switch. Works well. Couple of times in rough weather it's dropped from the b position to "off" which was disconcerting 1st time when I lost all power to accessories until we worked out what had happened.

[the baker]

had mine two years no probs yet

[Angla]

They are one of those items that needs regular checking and maintenance with the odd replacement thrown in at the appropriate time. Yours would probably be at the need maintenance point where you pull it apart to see how it ticks then buying a replacement unit that has better properties of weather proofing if tha was its demise or higher current rating if this might be the issue.

Good luck with it and I wouldn't let it wait till after a long expected big fishing trip which you have been waiting on for months. It will end up being the thing that plays up when the boat hits the water, sure as eggs.

Cheers
Chris

[Spaniard_King]

yeh.. there basically cheap switches... change regularly or buy better quality BEP stuff.

[Moonlighter]

Hi Corsie

I've not had problems myself, but a good mate of mine almost had his boat burnt down courtesy of one of the el-cheapo ones just a year or so ago.

He was preparing for a trip away and needed to charge his battery, so he switched the battery master switch off and connected up the charger to the batt, then went upstairs to have dinner.

15 mins later smelt smoke and by the time he got down the stairs the garage was full of smoke. He somehow managed to turn off the charger and rip the battery out of the boat. The switch was jammed.

What happened? Well, on inspection a small part of the switch mechanism broke off inside the switch as he tiurned it to the off position, causing a short which eventually overheated the battery leads, melted the insulation and very nearly caught fire.

Luckily his insurance paid for new batteries, complete rewiring of the boat, new VHF and and a check-up for the engine electronics, which luckily weren't fried as well.

Reported this to a boat dealer we both know who said they see if fairly often with the cheaper switch brands. The dealer only uses the quality NZ brand batt master switches and switch panels (B*E*P) for this very reason. Cost quite a bit more but quality worth it. No burnt boat sounds like a good idea to me!

Needless to say all our mates have fitted that brand to their boats now. I have.

Hope this info is useful to you.

Cheers

ML

[Steeler]

Hi Corsie

I have only ever had the screw down type over the years and never had any problems.I was advised to always have them on the neg terminal something to do with less amps in the event of an arc but maybe someone more clued up than me on auto electrics may better explain that theory.

Cheers

Steve

[Corsie]

Thanks everyone for your comments and advice.
I've just checked out the BEP switches on the net, and they aren't that much more expensive seeing they seem to be much more reliable.

[TJ Bear]

BEP are the only electronic components I would use or recomend.

[Reef_fisher]

Had that exact same type of switch, replaced three times due to complete failures. Went back to disconnecting batt lead. Have heard that depending on your wiring setup that batt switches don't always switch everything off, when you have stuff connected direct to batt.

[black runner]

Blue Sea systems gear is another good quality option. Whitworths have a good range.

I recently replaced a key switch with a 4 position mini switch. One of the terminal studs on the key switch was loose in the switch body - pays to check regularly.

Cheers