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View Full Version : Suzuki 4 stk sevice cost??



Zooter
15-12-2009, 03:34 PM
Hey guys and gals,

My 50 zuki efi 4 banger is nearly up for its 100hr service, anyone had theres done recently?? or can give me ballpark figures of what im going to be up for,

Had a mate tell me around $450 and nearly shat myself.lol

Got a service at 60hrs as it had not been done in a a while, being a 05 model,

That was oils and impeller and cost me $200, what more is there to the 100hr??

jason p
15-12-2009, 08:43 PM
yer mate, 460 i paid for my 100 hour service on my 90hp suzi. i still cant see the value for 460 but at least i know that it was done properly. my 200 is coming up soon and i will be doing this 1 my self as it's not so intensive as the 100 hour and then maybe back to the work shop for the 1 after that just to be safe:) .

jp

Big_Ren
15-12-2009, 09:02 PM
Have a Suzie DF 175 and her first 100 hour service cost $720....not kidding:o

boatboy50
15-12-2009, 09:06 PM
Hey Guys,

I don't know where you are going, but you definately need to find another mechanic.

Your getting shafted if it's just a 100hr service with nothing else done.

Darren

Greg P
15-12-2009, 09:23 PM
Have a Suzie DF 175 and her first 100 hour service cost $720....not kidding:o

Jeesus - what the hell did they do above a normal service.

I paid half that for a 300hr service on my DF150

White Pointer
15-12-2009, 10:05 PM
G'day,

If the boat does light duty over time and is cleaned and flushed you can negotiate with the dealer how much will be done and how much is not necessary because of how you use it and maintain it.

You need to make sure the servicing meets the requirements to maintain warranty and your own peace of mind.

One of the important parts of servicing any marine motor is to undo every tight bolt and inspect for seal failures and then lubricate the bolts and put them back. And pull the prop off and make sure it isn't full of fishing line and other crap that than pull a bearing.

These are things you can do yourself to save trademan's rates with a bit of nouce and some good tools but it can't be neglected other wise the bolts will freeze and then really expensive stuff breaks.

Talk to your dealer. He is better off with a satisfied customer who can do some things for himself than a customer who can't afford to own the boat and is no longer a customer at all.

Regards,

White Pointer

cormorant
16-12-2009, 09:42 AM
Hi WP

What bolts need undoing and greasing as an example?

My thoughts is that they come from the factory these days with the correct antiseize and loctite on them and unless it is something that needs retensioning should be left alone. Lower unit bolts should be done as per the manual in regards to R&R in doing the impeller.

Next point get the original factory manual and whan you buy a new motor have it included in the purchase price along with full parts diagram for your exact model.

The simple ones like pulling props and checking line are easy but lots of traps for young players with not using correct grease and damaging props or not tensioning properly.

As a not to anyone who does ont self servicing that involves bolts , nuts - buy a quality tension wrench and learn the difference in ft pounds etc. Get a feel for what 10 ft'p really is on a normal spanner as alloy doesn't take well to overtensioning. Learn how to clear a thread of old loctite and antiseize and buy the correct solvents and so on to do this. Seriously half the qualified workshops don't bother but I guess that says something

An apprentice on a motor without a tension wrench is a disaster in waiting.

That $XX per hour is the experience you pay for and all teh small consumables that don't get listed seperately. They are making a full retail margin on teh parts they fit and sometime over service with those and At $720 I'd be checking what was done.

Telling your mechanic ( if they are interested ) the work your motor does , what you are doing before next visit and so on can help him make the decision of whether to replace something or leave it till next time. Bigger shops just milk everything and do it by the book to cover thier bums. They can just let teh apprentice loose and he can tick the boxes

Noha
16-12-2009, 11:36 AM
from memory it cost me around $350 for 300hr service on my zuk 50 4st.
replaced plugs, impellor etc about 8 months ago. cheers

lee8sec
16-12-2009, 12:34 PM
Yamaha time for a 100hr service on a efi 4 cylinder 4 stroke is 4.7 hours. Leigh

Reefmaster
16-12-2009, 01:12 PM
Ring Jon Eadie on 0407738731.... He is one of Suzuki's specialist service dealers and even better he is mobile...He will not cut corners and the his work is second to none not to mention good pricing as well.

Regards
Greg

gtphantom
16-12-2009, 01:23 PM
I can't get over the crazy costs that you fellas pay to have a service ?? I don't know about you guys but if my daughter took her Getz to the dealership and had a 10 000k service and it was more than $200 I'd be asking some seriuos questions -- after all an O/B is only an engine and a gear box made up of , I'll give it , some expensive materials ----- so where is the extra cost?? I'd think that there would have to be a few more bits to be checked and have attention on a car than an O/B!!
IMO the old B.O.A.T.--Bring Out Another Thousand.... starts to ring in my head!
I did the 20 hr service on my Suzuki DF115's while I was away and had no issues from the selling dealer -- he even gave me the sequence for resetting the service reminder over the phone!
any one with a bit of mechanical apptitude can service thier own O/B especially if it's a 2-stoke -- and the fours are not much harder apart from oil and filter
I reckon the more money I spend on fixing he boat is less money I can spend on tackle and holidays!!

Greg P
16-12-2009, 02:04 PM
Good points GT. There is a case for and against I suppose depending on the individual circumstances. In most cases the service can be done if you have a little mech aptitude but if you don't have the aptitude there is potential for something crucial to be missed during your "oil change" which could have dire consequences resulting from a breakdown at sea or in the hip pocket trying to claim warranty for a component failure. The selling dealers don't make warranty decisions - that is done by the OEM or their local distributor.

I dont mind paying during the warranty period (certainly not $700 though) to have a certified mechanic carry out the work for piece of mind - once it is out of warranty I will do my own.

On a new Zuke if you cant do a service between 2-3 hrs plus parts I'd be suss.An average of $90/hr labour should see the job done for around $350 depending on plugs/impellor etc.

gtphantom
16-12-2009, 03:26 PM
Hey Greg --- I still have a big problem getting my head around paying any-more than an hour to an hour-and-half labor on sevicing most O/B's and I'll bare my bum in Bunnings on fathers day if the dealer actually does everyhing on the list!
I do all my own servicing apart from the updates and firmware on all our cars , boats and m/cycles -- I tend to stick with genuine parts although the oil filters I bought from Suzuki last were a lazy $36 each-- again an inflated pricing cos its for a pleasure craft IMO--- I havn't checked but if you get the part# off the filter --pinch if s#!t to pound of sugar it crosses to the a Suzuki motor car that will be half the price !!
the rest of the stuff that they do in the servicing IMO is totally unneccesary -- changing impellors yearly? theres $200 at least and I reckon if the tell tale is long and strong -- better off to keep a spare and replace it when it does start to get weak or fail ---- the last time I pulled the impellor out it was after three years and about 250 hours and I kept the old one as a justincase! no rocket science in changing annodes generally on condition and gear case oil you only need a $20 pump
you should be keeping up the grease after every time out so that is a use by use maint point and a bit of Ballistol or CRC around the place when the hat comes off to grease links etc
fair enough a lot of people can't or don't want to do it themselves but I think that some of the prices I've heard and seen off the forum are crazy
cheers Kim

lee8sec
16-12-2009, 04:40 PM
The problem with the "self service" is if you want the extra 2 years warranty on yam or merc o/b's it MUST be serviced by a dealer or service agent.
Iam a mechanic & i will have to pay for the yam's 100hr service if i want the warranty. Leigh

whiteman
16-12-2009, 05:05 PM
The 20 hour service on my 6hp Suzie 4s was $275 (15% of purchase price)! Never been back and do all the basics myself. Mind you, not much to do on these small donks.

Zooter
16-12-2009, 06:43 PM
I service my own cars, so i rekon if i read up a bit , i should be ok to drop the oil myself,

I just had a service 4 months ago at 60hrs, OIL. GEAR OIL,IMPELLER,
and my 100hr is only a few hrs away,

so i wont need a impeller, just oil change??

what else do they do at 100???

cormorant
16-12-2009, 06:52 PM
Yamaha time for a 100hr service on a efi 4 cylinder 4 stroke is 4.7 hours. Leigh


Fair Dinkum>>> What the hell do they do for the 3 hours not required to pull apart , tune and put back together the motor or are we paying for their chrissy party. That 3hrs must be to remove the covers and have coffee and cake?? I reall hope for Yammi owners that is a misprint as on a motorbike service it would be inder 1 hour.

4.7 hours - you give me the parts and a clean block and I think I could build a whole motor as per specs

There is a reason in itself not to buy one if dealers gouge like that.

Love to see the list and allocated times for each task.

gtphantom
16-12-2009, 07:45 PM
The problem with the "self service" is if you want the extra 2 years warranty on yam or merc o/b's it MUST be serviced by a dealer or service agent.
Iam a mechanic & i will have to pay for the yam's 100hr service if i want the warranty. Leigh


Gday Leigh
Y'know Iv'e had Yamaha's before and I think that they are probably the finest engineered O/B's available -- I don't know if any one knows this but Yamaha do the R&D for Toyota/Lexus and the offspin is the DOHC and Quad cam engines we see in the passenger car field, but I digress-----the one thing that put me off them was the strict install/repair and warranty conditions they impose , or at least the three deallers I approached for quotes---- the fit up costs from the dealer was EXHORBATANT!!!!! around $1800 per O/B plus any incidentals , so in reallity each fit ip could be as much as $2500
again -- if your rerto-fitting an O/B the hardest part is finding a mechanical/hydraulic lift to remove old and refit the new ---- the rest is only nuts & bolts , abit of time and effort as well as a some common sense
the Suzuki dealer -- for that matter, the couple I got quotes from had no problem supplying me the O/B's in boxes and were more than accomodating with any advice or help I needed!
the last boat we built I reckon we saved about $25-30k just by doing as much as I could myself--- money better spent on gizmos and whirlygigs , or a couple of fishing trips away instead of lining the poor boat builders pockets when they "value add" on the option list!!
I'm not bashing the dealers just knowing that you can get stitched up irks me

always get three quotes!!!
Kim

SNAFU
16-12-2009, 08:03 PM
hi all ,

i got a 90 efi zuki and i get hit $600 + every time i put it in for a 100 hr service . usualy every 9months to 1 year . nothing wrong when it goes in , prob only needs a oil change and filters . as it is now out of warrenty i will look at the mobil mechanic option mentioned earlier on . i keep getting the little flyer under windscreen wiper at manly boat ramp for mobil mechanic. any feed back on this service would be great . the 2 service places i go to in bris south side are $600+ for 100 hr service . no more i think . you could get a WRX done cheaper than that for sure .

SNAFU.

lee8sec
16-12-2009, 08:05 PM
For the 4cyl 4 stroke motors in the 2009 service book recomended labour times,
3month/20hr-3.0; 1yr/100hr- 4.7; 3y/300hr 5.1; 5y/500hr - 5.3; 1000hr-8.0 hrs. They dont list times for the 2,4,6,7,8 or 9 yrs. Leigh



Fair Dinkum>>> What the hell do they do for the 3 hours not required to pull apart , tune and put back together the motor or are we paying for their chrissy party. That 3hrs must be to remove the covers and have coffee and cake?? I reall hope for Yammi owners that is a misprint as on a motorbike service it would be inder 1 hour.

4.7 hours - you give me the parts and a clean block and I think I could build a whole motor as per specs

There is a reason in itself not to buy one if dealers gouge like that.

Love to see the list and allocated times for each task.

gtphantom
16-12-2009, 08:28 PM
I service my own cars, so i rekon if i read up a bit , i should be ok to drop the oil myself,

I just had a service 4 months ago at 60hrs, OIL. GEAR OIL,IMPELLER,
and my 100hr is only a few hrs away,

so i wont need a impeller, just oil change??

what else do they do at 100???


matey --- if you had it serviced a couple of months back at 60hrs I'd be at best doing engine oil anf filter a bit of grease on the linkages and PTT pivot and steer shaft
check a spark plug if they're platinum or iridium let em run at least another 50 hrs ----or replace them and keep the old ones in a dry box on-board justincase ---same for water pump impeller --did the dealer give you back the old one? if so keep it in a plastic bag with your other spares
if the tell-tale is strong leave it alone they're not hard to replace just a bit fiddly --- if you;ve got the hand book supplied with the O/B then I'm fairly sure it runs thru the proceedure to replace the impeller
pull the prop off -- clean and lube the shaft and hub with some marine grease tighten it as per the handbook and replace the cotter pin
you may need to replace the hi pressure fuel filter --- again the hand book will have all the service intervals in it somewhere and if you;ve got a primary filter in the hull just replace that anyway
the gear -case should go till your next service just check the level and make sure that theres no ingress of water into case----oil should be greeen or blue or honey yellow not milky again the hand book will show you how
if the annodes are less than 50%of origional the replace them and if your boat is ally then fit an annode to the hull if you havn't already got one
pretty basic stuff you're probably doing most of this already
another thing is that I always keep a good selection of spares with me -- a set of spark pluge a waterpump impeller and housing, flushing bungs[ Iv'e had the bungs stolen out of theO/B when we parked at a caravan park once] and a spare prop
hope this helps I'm sure that the dealer will be more tha willing to advise if any-thing else is required after all they will probably sell you the parts ---- and BTW i use normal auto engine oil something like a semi synthetic I prefer Castrol Edge 10W30 can get it from the auto stores or K-Mart fairly readily
cheers Kim

Skusto
16-12-2009, 08:32 PM
hi all we just went through the process putting a new outboard on we had a yamaha and to put a 150 yamaha on was going to cost 1000 plus in the first year and we could not justify the on going costs and as we only do between 50-100hrs a year we decided on on a etec 5 yr+ 2 yrext warranty non declining so far at 38 hrs on clock runs great no service costs
bevan

sharkymark2
16-12-2009, 09:41 PM
My wifes BMW service cost $450. So did my 11/2 year old 60 hp yamaha 4 stroke???? Go figure that. Seems like it is price fixing.

cormorant
16-12-2009, 10:25 PM
For the 4cyl 4 stroke motors in the 2009 service book recomended labour times,
3month/20hr-3.0; 1yr/100hr- 4.7; 3y/300hr 5.1; 5y/500hr - 5.3; 1000hr-8.0 hrs. They dont list times for the 2,4,6,7,8 or 9 yrs. Leigh


If anyone has an invoce that shows parts and labour and would type it up for a 100hr it would be nice to see. I still say that in 4.7 hours I could take out the motors appendix and do a breast enlargement all through the exhaust pipe.

Is it the flight time back to Japan , an hour each way on Nippon concorde and onlt 2.7 hours service as I could understand that.

I can seriously do all the tappets on a old V8 , timing from scratch and a clutch in 4.7 hours.

Just can''t work out what they are spending the timeon.

Remember the Tom Cruise film The Firm where the total billed hours were greater than the staff times the number of hours in a day X 3. Well I wonder how a audit of Yami incvoices from the workshop would look.

Perhaps they only emply one handed one legged mechanics ?

lee8sec
17-12-2009, 06:16 AM
I have only got 20hrs on mine so iam a fair way off the 100. Coming from the trade i will ask for a quote & break down of the charges when i need it done.
The car & bike guy's dont normally give a "total only" invoice and get away with it, must be a "boat" thing. This is the first time i have had to go to a dealer for services, have always done my own >:( Leigh

james1
17-12-2009, 09:57 AM
I just came up for a 300 hour on twin 175s and have always serviced my own motors when they are out of warranty, was going to get this one done by a dealer and got two quotes, both over $700 per motor.

In the end I bought the service kits from the dealer for about $217 each which had the plugs, anodes, engine oil filter, water pump kits, high pressure filter etc in it. Had to buy 20ltrs of engine oil from Castrol which was about $100 and gear oil for about $45 and I had grease. Two water seperator filters at $32 each and the rest elbow grease.

Two of us working together had each motor fully done in two hours so the whole thing was a considerable saving. I just can't see the justification for the time @ around $100 per hour for labour, unless you pay to wait while the oil drains.

gtphantom
17-12-2009, 12:32 PM
G'day James
further-more to the warranty debate---- we've in the past purchased new cars, bikes, O/B's, etc. and at no time have we ever returned them to the dealer apart for warranty repairs--- its a myth about using dealer/franchise repairers -- the only time you will ever have issues with warranty if they can prove that the part or repair has been the direct cause of the failure !! then if it was the part you go back to the supplier , pays to stick with OEM parts -- if it was the labour go back to the installer/repairer --thats why they carry insurance, or if you've done the job ........ suck it up I'm sure we all have mucked -up before!
as well in this day-and-age how many of you have heard the horror stories of 20years ago with machinery in general being unreliable---- not many, most problems are small, niggly, annoyances---- rattly door panel ,radio crackles, loose trim ----not to many engines or major bits going bang like they used to,
the last three cars I've bought new have only been to the deaaler for warranty--never service, same with the last couple of O/B's --they aren't happy and try the old dealer service/warranty Chestnut ,but they know it doesn't hold water! especilly if you're a tradie. as well the dealer doesn't decide on warranty the manufacturer does so any claims are put thru to the manufacturer to pay the dealer looses if they can't carry out the repairs in the standaard time allowed by the factory --- you've paid for the warranty in the origional purchase to the manufacturer
I've been down this road a couple a times and every time the dealer has come off with egg on thier faces ! this is just my experience on the matter --- any one else had the same??

cheers Kim

White Pointer
17-12-2009, 08:38 PM
Hi WP

What bolts need undoing and greasing as an example?

My thoughts is that they come from the factory these days with the correct antiseize and loctite on them and unless it is something that needs retensioning should be left alone. Lower unit bolts should be done as per the manual in regards to R&R in doing the impeller.

Next point get the original factory manual and whan you buy a new motor have it included in the purchase price along with full parts diagram for your exact model.

The simple ones like pulling props and checking line are easy but lots of traps for young players with not using correct grease and damaging props or not tensioning properly.

As a not to anyone who does ont self servicing that involves bolts , nuts - buy a quality tension wrench and learn the difference in ft pounds etc. Get a feel for what 10 ft'p really is on a normal spanner as alloy doesn't take well to overtensioning. Learn how to clear a thread of old loctite and antiseize and buy the correct solvents and so on to do this. Seriously half the qualified workshops don't bother but I guess that says something

An apprentice on a motor without a tension wrench is a disaster in waiting.

That $XX per hour is the experience you pay for and all teh small consumables that don't get listed seperately. They are making a full retail margin on teh parts they fit and sometime over service with those and At $720 I'd be checking what was done.

Telling your mechanic ( if they are interested ) the work your motor does , what you are doing before next visit and so on can help him make the decision of whether to replace something or leave it till next time. Bigger shops just milk everything and do it by the book to cover thier bums. They can just let teh apprentice loose and he can tick the boxes

G'day,

Thanks for that. If you have the tools you can do it yourself - but know what you are doing. Don't wing it.

The issue with bolts is that almost all of the casings are made with marine grade aluminium alloys but the bolts and their inserts (if there are any) are not. That means incompatible metals and if not attended to regularly spells disaster. Don't take the risk.

Routine service work done by an apprentice (under proper supervision) is the best work you will get done. A good apprentice with a good master makes the best future mechanic. The hourly rate that you pay does not reflect the apprentices wages - it reflect the quality of his supervision - that the job was done and the job was checked.

God bless apprentices and we pray for good masters, because without them we are all at risk.

Regards,

White Pointer

gtphantom
18-12-2009, 05:40 PM
G'day White Pointer
hey don't get me wrong I have worked in dealerships and franchises before but generally the apprentices work unsupervised soon into there second year and being a supervisor on a minesite for a Caterpillar dealer I'm personally respnsible for a fleet of the scally-wags--- last count I had 9 from late second year to graduating tradies , and some of them are as good -- if not better than some tradies I've got! -- I guess my point is that it's not who does the job -- i think that some-one mentioned Apprentice in a previus post and every-one jumped on the band wagon presuming that all the work was being done by a pimply faced kid two weeks outa school --- it's the price the dealer is charging ,albeit set from the factory, and we are all guilty of making a dollar when we can!
the other thing that I don't know if anyone has considered -- does the dealer actually have a training programme in place and do they have apprentices or trainees -- big difference I would think!! another point to check with your local I spose?
just a couple of points to ponder
cheers Kim

disorderly
18-12-2009, 06:06 PM
Unless you know exactly who and what is being done to your engine and what they are actually charging for at these "routine"maintainence intervals then they are most likely charging you at some pre-determined industry standard (many car workshop charges are done like this)..and possibly loading up some more.

I just (a few months ago)had my first service done on my E-Tec 90 done at 300 hrs(bit after 3 years).

It cost $440 and as long as I do the required regular greasing of the nipples and steering components as well as keeping an eye on the day to day functions of the motor(collected 3 different lines at the pontoon last week ,removed them and gave the hooks,sinkers,and line back to the rightful owners..),I will not have to see the service agent for another 3 years and 300 hours.

I will however remove my prop now and occasionally check the seals and maybe have a look at the gearbox oil as well as routine greasing and checking that all is fine.

A lot of services,impellor changes etc IMO are unneccessary but given that some owners do absolutely nothing to their engine other than turn the key then perhaps its not a bad idea for them to have a yearly service.

Scott