PDA

View Full Version : Refit of Interior



Mudlicker
06-12-2009, 08:06 AM
Hi Guys , i am due to re carpet and replace some of the timber in my Tabs Territory , has anyone got any good ideas for substitutes for marine ply , and if marine ply is used what is the best product to seal it . Also some suggestions on what glue to use for the carpet would be handy , have been told contact cement or tile glue ;D

deckie
06-12-2009, 10:54 AM
depends where the timber is...and usually cd ply will do the trick just as well as marine coz the glues are similar...either way u need to seal it whatever u use. Freshwater will kill ply faster than saltwater due to the rot so u are just as much protecting the ply from yourself and the hose. No idea what a tabs territory looks like or where the wood is but in general the best waterproofing u will get is epoxy...if its an important piece in a wettish area its best to actually fibreglass it to last.
What u generally want is for the first coat of whatever u use to soak right into the ply.
One of the best ways is to get a tin of good old polyester resin and a tin of what is called styrene monomer from the same supplier. Mix them about 50/50 and be heavy handed with the hardener..say 3-4%MEKP . It will be a very thin resin mix for the first coat and u will find it soaks right in. Then another coat with only about 20% styrene then lastly none at all.
Epoxy is harder and more waterproof and u can get already thinned down stuff like "everdure" from the average chandlery (not cheap tho)...does a decent job but u still need multiple coats and follow the directions re application. In a wet area i'd go the epoxy especially for decking and it will last for eons. Beware tho u might need a specialist flowcoat over epoxy (if u want this as your final finish) as the regular polyester flowcoat doesnt stick to it so well unless u can get a good mechanical bond with heavy sanding. Its one reason i tend to stick to polyester even tho its not as good at waterproofing...coz i can just flowcoat straight over it.

ANY type of ply can be used in reality as long u seal it very well....i;m even using 6mm bendy ply which doesnt even have a waterproof glue and is soft as hell...after shaping and securing i just hit one side with multiple coats of thinned resin then let it harden into shape...then take it off and do the other side...then flowcoat or upholstery for the colour.

There are easier ways of course...but everything else is a short cut and it just depends how long u want it to last and how much water it cops.

deckie
06-12-2009, 11:11 AM
p.s. The two areas most responsible for detirioration is the edge of the ply and bolt/screw holes...so simply apply more heavily to the sawn edges and soak it right in and drill the holes and waterproof the drilled holes before screwing. Use a good flexible marine sealing compound for all screws/bolts when u finally install coz the moisture permeates no matter how tight u think they;re screwed in. Carpet can add to the rot issues by trapping water under it so its worth spending the extra time on waterproofing and it'll last a hellova lot longer.

Member101
06-12-2009, 02:58 PM
Any oil based varnish will seal ply but multiple coats of marine varnish is the go. We did a mates crabbing tinny a while back and its still going strong. full of mud and mangroves every weekend so it got some serious cleaning. As deckie said, make sure you seal inside the screw holes.

Skusto
06-12-2009, 06:06 PM
any one everthought of the water proofing stff that they use in bathrooms to waterproof them? might work better? and cheaper?

deckie
06-12-2009, 06:41 PM
Any oil based varnish will seal ply but multiple coats of marine varnish is the go. We did a mates crabbing tinny a while back and its still going strong. full of mud and mangroves every weekend so it got some serious cleaning. As deckie said, make sure you seal inside the screw holes.
Yeah varnish will do a reasonable job but still best to thin down the first coat so it soaks in. Get that first coat into the fibres of the ply. Varnish cracks more readily over time letting the moisture in so if u really like the varnish idea i'd simply thin that first coat then go for ya life.
Varnish and other things on the market can actually work out more expensive than resins and thinners for large areas plus take a lot longer to dry between coats for a lesser result.. Two simple reasons for sealing with the resin layers that i;ve found.

If its a deck area down back that cops a lot of water u might want to go the full hog and seal the bolt/screw holes for good. Best way is to drill a much larger hole first..seal the back with tape or anything thin, lay flat and pour resin (epoxy or polyester) into the hole...when set simply drill out the correct size hole through the middle and water can never come in contact with the wood as it permeates.

I;ve found Marine Penetrol is damn good stuff as well because it gets in and seals the fibres...then apply whatever finish coat u like. Think of it as a water repelling primer. Multiple layers of it can actually be good enough.

Everyone has different ideas tho and people use all sorts of stuff from bondcrete to enamel paints with mixed results. Over a long time tho i;ve just found that ply lasts better if u soak that first coat of anything right into it as a sealer...especially the sides

charleville
06-12-2009, 07:57 PM
I am not sure what style or quality of boat a "Tabs Territory" is but given that CD grade ply from Bunnings was quite reasonably priced when I replaced my carpeted floor a couple of years ago in my Quintrex, I would wonder if the cost of some of the sealants being suggested would rival the cost of the plywood being used.

You need to seal the edges with something at least and the conventional wisdom is that the top side should be sealed with the underside being left unsealed so as to allow the plywood to dry out between dunkings.

I suspect that whatever lacquer or old external paint that you have left over in your garage or shed would be adequate for the job, especially as it will not be seen under the carpet. I suspect that the plywood base for the carpet may not get too much of a sealing treatment in most boat factories, anyway. Certainly, it is unlikely to get the number of coats and attention to detail that you will give it DIY.

When I did mine, I did go to a thicker plywood than had been there previously, hoping that the thicker plywood would add an extra couple of years to the next replacement interval. You just need to check that the boat's floor fittings can accept a thicker plywood if you choose to do that. It means that he boat will be slightly heavier but inconsequentially so. It sure makes the floor feel solid, however.

Using marine plywood for this job is highly unnecessary. The CD plywood that you will see in Bunnings has the same glue in it which is all that you need to worry about for this purpose.



.

Mudlicker
06-12-2009, 09:18 PM
I am not sure what style or quality of boat a "Tabs Territory" is but given that CD grade ply from Bunnings was quite reasonably priced when I replaced my carpeted floor a couple of years ago in my Quintrex, I would wonder if the cost of some of the sealants being suggested would rival the cost of the plywood being used.

You need to seal the edges with something at least and the conventional wisdom is that the top side should be sealed with the underside being left unsealed so as to allow the plywood to dry out between dunkings.

I suspect that whatever lacquer or old external paint that you have left over in your garage or shed would be adequate for the job, especially as it will not be seen under the carpet. I suspect that the plywood base for the carpet may not get too much of a sealing treatment in most boat factories, anyway. Certainly, it is unlikely to get the number of coats and attention to detail that you will give it DIY.

When I did mine, I did go to a thicker plywood than had been there previously, hoping that the thicker plywood would add an extra couple of years to the next replacement interval. You just need to check that the boat's floor fittings can accept a thicker plywood if you choose to do that. It means that he boat will be slightly heavier but inconsequentially so. It sure makes the floor feel solid, however.

Using marine plywood for this job is highly unnecessary. The CD plywood that you will see in Bunnings has the same glue in it which is all that you need to worry about for this purpose.



.cannot fit any thicker ply than what is there all ready , TABS must have sealed the ply tat they used fairly well as it has lasted 7 years now and only the hatches and one other piece is need of replacement , they even went to the extent of carpeting all of the underside , yes even the panels which are all screwed down , so I was going to replicate this, will go down to bunnings and price up the cd ply though , sounds like it is better to spend the money on sealant rther than timber .

Jarrah Jack
07-12-2009, 07:48 PM
It reads like you got the first part of your question answered ok. The second part about the glue you got right yourself with the contact adhesive. You can also use liquid nails and silicone. The liquid nails would be the pick and very cheap as well.

39NESP
09-12-2009, 05:40 AM
THERE IS ONLY ONE WOOD PRES WHICH IS SENSEAL HAVE USED 4 YEARS
WWW.SENSEAL.COM.AU (http://www.SENSEAL.COM.AU)
CHEERS SNAP

bigjimg
09-12-2009, 08:27 PM
Mudlicker what you ask for is Structural Ply CD grade either F8 or F11 don't go any lower in the vicinity of 9-15mm or thicker if you want.Make sure though if going through the big B it is not seconds.CD is the face veneers C on one side D on the other.C side is better than D side.The glue lines are exactly the same as Marine Ply.Norseal is another epoxy preserve mixed together as a two part system.Kwik grip waterproof contact adhesive stisks in a wet environment like sh%$#@t to a blanket.Have fun.Jim

Dave71
11-12-2009, 03:52 PM
I havejust finnished replacing the floor in a Formossa centre cab. I have used form ply due to it being fully sealed. After I cut it to size I used 3 coats of marine varnish to seal the edges and srew/bolt holes then put 2 coats over both sides. I used contact cement to glue the carpet down and restaplled the edges with stainless staples.
Dave

smashed crabs
11-12-2009, 07:57 PM
Bondcrete , use it on anything, dont dilute it paint it on straight apply as many coats as you want, it will soak right in and water proof the timber.
commercial fisherman have been using it for ages