Battery issues

[Pommy Matt]

I'm having some issues with my battery and charging - I know next to nothing about batteries but have learnt bit recently.

First up I got my annual service, yammy F60 - all seemed well, but after one trip out the motor wouldn't start - I charged the battery indoors with a decent charger (ctek, I use it for my deep cycle battery). The motor started first time with the freshly charged battery, but something didn't seem right - we'd run the motor plenty on the earlier run out and the battery hadn't been strong enough to spin the cog up into the engager (whatever they're called) just a week later.
I put a volt meter across the battery and started the motor- no change from 12.5v - and also the tacho wasn't working - I hadn't noticed this before but it could have been broken on the last trip out I guess. So my mechanic says it looks like its the rectifier, and he confirms this and replaces it. I have just tried to start the motor today, and first turn the motor engages, second it spins but doesn;t engage and then it is totally dead - I should have mentioned that I recharged after getting it back from the mechanics, on his advice. Battery reads 12.6v with the voltmeter, but on closer inspection fluid is low and the plates visible in 3 of the cells.
I have topped up and am now charging.

questions:
is the battery screwed? I heard that once the plates are visible, damage occurs?
Could the death of the battery be linked to the rectifier issue, or is this a cooincidence? overcharging at the mechanics lost he fluid?
Is it normal for a totally screwed battery to read 12.6v? This battery couldn't turn the starter motor at all.
I ought to add that I connected my deep cycle just to confirm that everything else was OK, and it started the egnine just fine.

thanks all,
matt

[rhycebullimore]

did you read the battery when you were turning the key, a good battery should read around 13v when not in use ? and take note what it rewads when you turn the key, if it drops low the battery is gone. also did you top the battery using distilled water ?

rhyce

[Pommy Matt]

the battery was disconnected and reading 12.6v - yet it couldn't turn the starter motor. I did top it up with distilled water.

[mojoe1]

mate how old is the battery also try a hydrometer 1.250 is a good reading or there abouts?

[Pommy Matt]

thanks mo - I did try with the hydrometer on one cell, and got a reading in the 'fair' range, I didn't note the actual number. I went to try another cell and couldn't get any liquid out, as it was below the plate.
I am going to get a new battery anyway as I wouldn't trust this one now - I am interested to know if the rectifier issue is connected, or how either I or the mechanic trashed the battery (3 years old) ?

[ozscott]

It is probably stuffed then matey.

Cheers

[rhycebullimore]

possibly because the battery hasn't been checked or topped up all the time , you should test each cell, as if you have one cell or nearly 2 cells dropped then this may not be enough to to engage starter, like a normal battery when reading 12.6 or 13 or what it may be is ok, when you apply load then if you have dropped a cell you will notice that the battery when you turn the key to start it will drop down to 10 or 8 volts, which is definitely gone.

[groverwa]

Take the battery to battery sales place and get them to do a test discharge but top up all cells with distilled water and place on charge for a while before you get a test. A test will give a real indication of condition

The hydrometer test on each cell will give an indication also

Are the battery terminals clean and tight - clean means bright and shiny not dull - as voltage is dropped across dirty terminals when current is drawn - you can measure the volt drop with your meter and the connectors will feel warm or even hot

Is it your original battery - could have been swapped??

[oldboot]

before you go any further top up the battery and charge it fully......when topping up a battery that is quite low on electrolite it may take some time to get up to full charge.

tacho not going is a prime indicator of a donged regulator pack as the tacho signal comes out of the regulator pack on many motors.

A very common cause of regulators dying is the motor being run with no battery connected.....the regulators require a load to prevent the armiture coils from generating high voltages that snot the regulator pack.

If you have bad or intermittent connections between the battery and the motor....this may explain both the snotted reg and the poor starting.

BTW.......a rested (been off charger for a couple of hours) normal lead acid battery should read arround the 12.5 volts.

you could try substituting the battery with one of your cars.

cheers

[big moose]

firstly I agree with all the above posts but at three years old you could be running into the design life of the battery, they are warranted for twelve months and designed to die within three to five years lack of regular maintenance accellerates the demise. the rectifier dying can cause problems with charging so the short answer is a new battery will be cheap insurance against an on water let down
gary

[Jarrah Jack]

Tjhere is a very good thread a few weeks back on battery charging issues which is well worth a read. Don't know how to stick a link in here but you would find it with an advanced search.

[Scimitar raider]

I agree with big moose "lack of maintaince" 3 years is about what you could excpect.

[Pommy Matt]

cheers all for the replies. Well I topped up all the cells with distilled water, put it on a 'recondition' charge with the c-tek chrager, which got to the green light eventually.
Just got back from work and put the hydrometer on a couple of the cells, both well in the red, so a new battery it is!

[oldboot]

many of the batteries have a 2 year warranty.....and that has been accepted as the design life span of a standard lead acid battery................if you look after a standard lead acid battery you may get 5 years......7 is my best effort.

However......move up the market into a good marine battery with some calcium in the plates and you should do much better..........the battery in the young brotherinlaws boat is 7 years old and works and load tests pretty close to new.

A battery load tester (tong tester, called such because the early ones looked like a tong with two spikes on it) are reasonably easy to get and reasonably cheap.......(I can lay my hands on one for about $60) is a worthwhile thing.......it allows you to load test the battery and get some idea of its ability to deliver current.

A tong tester wont do what a funky battery analiser will but..........a multimeter, a hydrometer and a tong tester and you should be able to get a pretty good handle on a battery's health.



how's the wiring looking?

cheers