Mechanical brake cable - stainless or mild steel

[ozscott]

Just about to get new (probably galved) rotors from Avtive Fab - $63 odd a piece. I am going to do the pads too. I am going to replace the brake cable - override mech on one axle - while I am at it....what is the consensus on stainless by those who have had it - does it stretch too much. Im not worried about rust, I am keen to get the one with the least stretch so that when the brakes are adjusted up properly they activate as directly as possible.

Cheers

[dreemon]

Good point, I had st/s cable and never saw a prob in 6 yr's but not realy sure how much stretch there was if any, in the driveway on one notch and it would stay there and with 2 notches towing was very noticable that they were working,

the galv rotors at that price is well worth it, mine were steel and I had to get my rotary hamer with chisel on it once a year to remove the rust buildup.

[Getout]

Stretch? Yacht rigging is stainless steel. Any stretch there is more difficult to deal with than that in a braking system.
Gal is cheaper, thats about its only advantage.

[Moonlighter]

Hey Ozscott

Slightly off topic but I'm told Activefab will upgrade the std "el cheapo" chinese bearings in their hubs to quality Jap ones for only a few $ - might be worth it to get the good bearings from new, just a suggestion.

Cheers

ML

[Mr__Bean]

Whichever cable material you use I would ecommend that you spend the time to fit cable end thimbles (or whatever they are called).

See my post on this page: http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/showthread.php?t=150684&page=2

They really do make a significant difference to the effective amount of braking you get.

A lot of people think they are dealing with cable stretch when in fact they are dealing with cable tightening first.

- Darren

[gleeeza]

This is my first experience with a braked trailer and I was not prepared for the maintenance. Onto it now, I did change to SS wire and it is as good as gold, no more stretch than Gal. I found that once a few internal wires gave it up the wire was soft and had annealed on the gal so I reckon the old gal is the dud.

I had the same rust problem on the rotors and was told by brake dealers to buy a new set, they refused to machine them even though there was plenty of meat on them(offered to replace tool tip if necessary, no joy). Luckily a mate had an old brake machine on his farm and did them for me. they cleaned up well and are still serviceable two years later. I was them asap going in and out now and it is worth it.

G

[ozscott]

Thanks all. Moonliter - I was in bed last night (havent gone to active fab yet) and thought...bugger I wonder if those hubs at that price run Timkin bearings...bet they bloody dont...I have 3 sets here but dont want to have to fit them...then I read your post! I will ask them to have them fitted up with Timkin bearings.

Mr Bean...I remember reading that post of yours and your diagram. I reckon your advice makes a lot of sense and is sweet - if well set up there is no reason why over ride mech brakes shouldnt be, realistically at least, less efficient than over ride hydraulic.

Cheers again

[wrxhoon]

I would use S/S to save changing it all the time .
If I was you I would change to Hydraulic calipers, then you will notice the differece in braking.
You must be right on the limit with the vagabond, are you sure you are under 2000 loaded?

[ozscott]

Thanks mate - I have considered hydraulic. I might get a quote, but I am weary of spending too much on the trailer, because I just want to keep it serviced and still working well. Good mechanical should pull up as well as good hydraulic, just means you have to tighten the cable at intervals. As for the weight mine is the first generation of Vagabond, so her actual hull length is 19'9 and its bare hull weight is 800kg. It runs a 115 Yammy V4. All up it comes in at just under 2 tonn with 150l of petrol, dual batteries and all the gear. You might be thinking of the newer models that are well over 2 tonn loaded.

Cheers

[wrxhoon]

Thanks mate - I have considered hydraulic. I might get a quote, but I am weary of spending too much on the trailer, because I just want to keep it serviced and still working well. Good mechanical should pull up as well as good hydraulic, just means you have to tighten the cable at intervals. As for the weight mine is the first generation of Vagabond, so her actual hull length is 19'9 and its bare hull weight is 800kg. It runs a 115 Yammy V4. All up it comes in at just under 2 tonn with 150l of petrol, dual batteries and all the gear. You might be thinking of the newer models that are well over 2 tonn loaded.

Cheers


I was thinking of the newer models and all the ones I've seen have V6's ( 150HP +) and some with twins.
You can't compare cable with hydraulic brakes, I don't care how good the cable brakes are , they will never come anywhere near the braking power of hydraulics .
Old cars use to have mechanical brakes and the parking brake is mechanical cable in modern cars..
Of course it will mean more money but I thought you are spending some in upgrading, Its a good oportunity to upgrade to Hydraulics.
It won't be cheap if you are going to get someone to do the fitting for you but the only extra parts you need are: A master cylinder, calipers and some tube, price depends on brand and quality, the same with cable really.

The cheapest way out of it is gal cable and Chinese rotor/hub all in one .
The most expensive Hydraulics and S/S calipers , gal or S/S hubs and S/S hat vented rotors.
I installed the first S/S brakes in my old trailer in 2000 and I did the same with my current, I would never go back to none S/S . A lot more money upfront but never had to replace a rotor ( wore out 3 sets of brake pads in the old trailer) and I never had a caliper fail ( I had alloy calipers in the last one with S/S sleeve and s/S piston).

[Chimo]

Hi Ozscott

As your under 2 tonne (I too wondered about the weight) I would stay with the cable set up. So much less maintence and works fine IF you get the rotors machined so they are true with no "woofs"

This allows you to adjust up the cable so you can have the brakes operate all the way through their travel. I had gal on my single axle pair of brakes on my previous boat and because the cable was dipped in fish oil before the trailer hit the sea the first time and hosed off after, in the nine years I had the trailer I had no rust on the cable.

Obviously you need to be particular about your loops ( Small) and your clamps (two or three instead of one) and keep full adjustment at the front of the trailer to keep the cable tight.

Before I had the new rotors machined it was imposible to adjust the brake cable up tight enough to get optimum braking as the pads kept hitting the high spots on the rotors and overheating the hubs and bearings.

Anyhow gal or stainless, up to you but the same principles apply and machined true rotors is a must and the key to the deal.

If I could go back to cable instead of the hydraulic electric overide system and the extra maintence; I have to have with the weight of the "new" Vagabond with twin 115s and 4 batteries etc and obviously over 2 tonne I'd be there in a flash.

Cheers
Chimo

[ozscott]

Thanks fellas - again this site comes up with great advice.

Cheers and thanks

[ozscott]

I have those ALKO composite rotors on at the moment...they dont rust but over time they become a bit chunky...I might price those aswell.

Cheers