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View Full Version : Flowcoat Repair (again)



svranjic
30-05-2009, 03:47 PM
Hey

Whilst on holidays I decided to go and redo the previous hull repair job I did a couple of months ago but this time add color pigment to the flowcoat to match the color of the hull so it doesnt stand out so bad.

I sanded back the old flow coat (which is a pain in the ass the stuff is so hard) Anyhow to get all the old stuff off I ended up sanding a bit too much through to the underlying gelcoat.

I have attached photo of the area

Now I thought Ide better post on here before doing anything.

Is it ok to paint some pigmented flowcoat over this and very lightly sand back till flush? What is the best way to go about covering this up?

If only u could buy flowcoat in small spray tins..... :(

Shane

TJ Bear
30-05-2009, 05:55 PM
Where are you Shane? if your on the gold coast I could pop over spray it nock it back and buff it for you its only a quick job and Im already covered in dust from fairing plug for new mold anyway.

svranjic
30-05-2009, 08:18 PM
Im in Perth :'(

I have sanded back all patches where the previous flowcoat was not matched (there are a few) but theyre only small. I havent sanded back the keel area though as thats gonna take me ages.....

I Have mixed up some color matched flowcoat and brushed it on with the softest bristled brush I could find. Trying to stroke only one way and leave as little brush marks as possible so i can sand it back easily. I think it will be noticeable however.

I am half tempted to invest in a spray gun and compressor...... or even one of those electric spray guns from Bunnings - such as this one http://www.wagnerspraytech.com.au/portal/color_w_450_se_en_au,95060,59414.html ?

TJ Bear
30-05-2009, 10:04 PM
You can still get a good professional finish without a spray gun. First get some 3M guide coat, apply a dusting of guide coat the dry rub with a block and 400 grit untill you get it fair, now wet rub it with 800 grit to remove the 400 scratches then 1500 wet rub with a block to remove 800 scratches. Normally I would go straight to the buff with 3M PERFECT IT and then 3M FINESSE IT but if you dont have a buff do a 2000 wet rub with a block and then polish by hand with an automotive cutting compound.

Most important that you do all your sanding with a block and use guide coat to see highs and lows when fairing with the 400, take it slowa as you dont want to rub through.