Extending Trailer Drawbar

[Monza]

My 19ft trailer is around a foot or two short of a comfortable length for the boat, even with the winch post moved all the way forward. What are the practicalities and legalities of extending the drawbar 0.5m or so?

Obviously it would need to engineered and welded properly, but it seems a fairly simply job? Am I missing something?

[Angla]

Do you have a side on picture to show us that shows the length of the trailer and boat combination?

If you did add extra to the trailer are you going to move the wheel set forwards?

Is there much weight on the draw bar at the moment?

A little more information may be necessary to make any assumptions.

I recently re-galled the trailer and replaced rusted sections as well as replacing all the springs, shackles, bolts, brakes and wheels. The trailer guy did a marvellous job. Sandgate trailers was the go, just a one man operation.

Cheers
Chris

[tunaticer]

Its not normally a big problem either making a replacement drawbar part of a trailer or extending the drawbar that exists. Sleeving it with a heavywall section internally or externally will give the new joint all the support it needs to avoid stress fractures.

[Monza]

The boat only needs to move forward 3-4 inches on the trailer, so I shouldn't have to move the axles. The winch mast is all the way forward, with the bow of the boat just about through the back window, so I just need to extend the bar.

Sounds like cutting the bar out and replacing with a longer one may be the neatest option. I'll post a couple of pics for your info.

Monza



Do you have a side on picture to show us that shows the length of the trailer and boat combination?

If you did add extra to the trailer are you going to move the wheel set forwards?

Is there much weight on the draw bar at the moment?

A little more information may be necessary to make any assumptions.

I recently re-galled the trailer and replaced rusted sections as well as replacing all the springs, shackles, bolts, brakes and wheels. The trailer guy did a marvellous job. Sandgate trailers was the go, just a one man operation.

Cheers
Chris

[Roughasguts]

I have an extended tow ball tounge on me Pajero. Its about 200mm longer as I have a bow sprit if going through a ditch I would also punch me back window out! with out having it.

[foxx510]

If you haven't already, check that your tow ball weight is ~10% of the total weight, now and after the modifications.

[Monza]

I guess that would work. You would need a bit of extra care reversing in the car park, or is it detachable?


I have an extended tow ball tounge on me Pajero. Its about 200mm longer as I have a bow sprit if going through a ditch I would also punch me back window out! with out having it.

[Roughasguts]

I guess that would work. You would need a bit of extra care reversing in the car park, or is it detachable?

Nah I always remove the tounge Pull the pin out and stow it in the garage.
Not to mention cracking your shins Ouch!

I don't need it for the Caravan but it's worth it for that as well! cause I can open the tail gate all the way out with the extension on as well.

[dnej]

Got a pic you can post?
David

[Monza]

Got a pic you can post?
David
http://www.ventsim.com/images/trailer1.jpg
http://www.ventsim.com/images/trail2.jpg

[dnej]

Gee, the boat appears way to big for the trailer, or rather the trailer way to small for the boat. No wonder you are concerned, the bow spit is almost over the tow hitch.
The only ones to give you a real answer on this one, would be the builders of the trailer. I wouldnt like to extend the bar, without some specs being done
Sorry I couldnt help
David

[Mr__Bean]

After seeing the photos I wouldn't be working on the front end of the trailer, I would be extending a set of the same rollers out on an additional cradle out the back.

Many trailers are set up that way and it is all bolt on and can be all galvanised before installation to ensure maximum corrosion prevention.

Some cradles are hard mounted, some pivot.

- Darren

[ozbee]

work on the back i assume the rear set are on a centre pivoting cradle like most trailers , double cradle them in that make the box iron longer and attach two roller sets rather than your one on each side you have now . this will enable you to sit the boat back around 18 inches . you may have to rebalance the trailer length wise also.

[tunaticer]

Go for a drawbar replacement.......looks like a simple job.

[bigfella23]

There is an Australian Standard for drawbars, giving a size and thickness to use over a given length. This is to stop overloading the drawbar, it breaking , and someone getting killed. I would not touch the drawbar , due to insurance reasons , and look at ways to put longer rear bars at rear to extend and readjust the wheelbase to give 7% of ATM on drawbar.

[Blaster Bretty]

Yeah mate adjust the draw bar,I rekon this is the answer, to muck around with the rear of the trailer will adjust the weight distribution too much and you can have travel problems even at low speed's.
Either replace the drawbar with a newer stronger one or what I would do is to cut the drawbar behind the hitch and weld in a new piece about 600-800mm long then also underneath the whole drawbar assembly weld another very long piece, say 1500mm long that would work as a brace for the welded extras you have put in , then weld the winch post to the drawbar where ever you want it and off you go mate, a welded winch post is 10 times stronger than having a bolted one and if you want it moved later just cut it off and start again,of course dont forget to have it painted , much cheaper and you can do it yourself at home.

Bretty

[oldboot]

The other issue is that if you do ANY structrual modifications to your trailer you will have to get them "engineered", buy someone qualified to do so.

That is a legal requirement...... but for get the legal requirement......worry about the insurance.

I know of one case of an incrrectly modified trailer that was in a prang that dragged on for years... there was no way the insurance was going to pay.

If it is a simpler case of rearranging some rollers... do that.

Yeh... check you ball weight too.

cheers

[Wahoo]

there is some very poor advice on this topic


Daz

[Ally Jack]

Wahoo,
I agree!

Why not look at buying a trailer that actually fits the boat a lot better. Your trailer now looks in pretty good condition so you'd still get good money for it and look at a bigger trailer. The trading post has a couple of trailer manufacturers advertising new trailers to suit 19-21' boats for around $4k
I know it's a bit of money and times are tough for a lot of people but better to be safe (and legal) than sorry

My opinion
Ally Jack

[welder]

I would add on to the back of the trailer .

That Trailer is rated to carry that boat , yes ?

[Blaster Bretty]

OK monza, judging by your boat and motor package it would seem that coin is not too hard to come by for you so the best advice I have seen so far is sell your old trailer and buy a new one that is suited to the boat you have, the trailer you have now is way too short by a mile + a half!
Dont what ever you do move the boat backwards by extending the rear, all this will do is adjust your ball weight and put more weight over the axle's which is not good!

Bretty

[Monza]

Thanks for all the advice re trailer extension and rebuild. Just thought I'd post the results.

Would have liked to have bought a new trailer but quote for $5.5k was a bit rich for me.

Comments about insurance were also noted, but all work was done professionally and carrying capacity was unchanged.

In the end I decided to
1. Leave the drawbar alone - too risky from an engineering and insurance point of view.
2. Extended the rear rails and rollers by 300mm by a local custom modification firm.
3. Moved the channel rails forward on the axle carrier (only a few u-bolts) to rebalance the weight over the towbar.

In addition while I had it apart I
1. Replated the rust holes in the bottom channel.
2. Stripped it down to little pieces and had the whole thing regalvanised.
3. Rewired, replaced brakes, bolts, hubs and bearings.

The result - a good as brand new trailer that fits the boat like a glove and cost less than $2000

Monza :)

http://ventsim.com/images/IMG_0012.JPG
http://ventsim.com/images/IMG_0013.JPG
http://ventsim.com/images/IMG_0015.JPG
http://ventsim.com/images/IMG_0010.JPG

[White Pointer]

G'day,

You have two problems:

1. It's a Sea-Link trailer. If you want to know more just start a new thread here on Sea-link trailer problems or Google the name.

2. Despite the trailer being undersize for the boat, I think you are trying to get it too far forward. I think you could push it back a good 300mm without concern for rear weight. I may be wrong - check with the boat manufacturer or one of their better dealers.

PM me for more informations or contacts to sort it.

Regards,

White Pointer

[White Pointer]

G'day,

I've just had another look at the pictures and I think there are way too few rollers under that boat, especially up forward where you have pulled it up.

I also think that the download on your towball for a Triton could be an issue.

I think Haines Signature ex-factory have a Dunbier trailer as the prefered trailer. Ask members to confirm and if so get the specification for layout and fit lots more rollers - or just flog it and get something that fits and won't wreck your boat.

Regards,

White Pointer

[Monza]

Yeah White Pointer - I've already had the Sea-Link problems - broken springs, poor wiring, bearings, rollers and guides that wouldn't fit the boat hull properly.
Trailer was a 2003 model. After replacing all of these items 4 years ago, I haven't had a problem since apart from a bit of rust showing. Boat glides on and off without effort when launching and retrieving and travels along the road nicely.

Anything else I should know about? May as well post it on the forum.

[bigjimg]

Job well done Monza and the best choice in terms of which end to modify.Looks pretty much the same position my 580 sits on the dunbier.Only wish the anchor fitted in the locker on mine as it hits the hard cover on my Prado when in tight corners,only the perspex insert though.Nice looking rig you've got there and the mods are, from the pics, unnoticable.Jim

[Monza]

Photos are a little deceiving because of the angle of the photos.
There are actually 28 grey rollers under the hull and another 6 keel rollers along the bottom. The trailer has provision for another set of rollers between the bow and previous set, but given the fine angle of the signature hull at the front they wouldn't do much.

[White Pointer]

Yeah White Pointer - I've already had the Sea-Link problems - broken springs, poor wiring, bearings, rollers and guides that wouldn't fit the boat hull properly.
Trailer was a 2003 model. After replacing all of these items 4 years ago, I haven't had a problem since apart from a bit of rust showing. Boat glides on and off without effort when launching and retrieving and travels along the road nicely.

Anything else I should know about? May as well post it on the forum.

G'day,

Yeah! Why not get it off my chest.

My Sea-Link at 15-months old, seized calipers - one locked half on the other not working at all (that was fun), lighting shot with corrosion up the harnesses, brake cables shredded rubbing on bolt heads, no lubrication added after assembly and the whole thing sounds like a symphony orchestra manned by 2-year olds. The noise is frightening.

Now, I've given a few unashamed plugs on trailer repairs and maintenance and now you know why. I contacted Trojan, who sell quality trailer parts through REPCO - where you always pay too much - but I wanted the right stuff and I wanted it fixed. Trojan sent me to FMS Trailers at 17 Mile Rocks. I contacted them and they said they would have a look and quote me. Now, 17 Mile Rocks is a fair way from Scarborough with 8.1M of BMT in tow in peak hour. But I did it and it didn't disappoint me. I came away with new LED lighting, brakes that work brilliantly, cable guides and new cables that will survive, and advice that my bearings were OK - don't spend anything on them now and the musical suspension is just crap design and we won't spend anything on that either because you might as well buy a proper trailer.

So my (biased) advice is, if you're having trailer hassles call Ivan at FMS Trailers because he will fix it with good kit and won't sell you up.

Regards,

White Pointer

[Monza]

Sounds similar to my experience. Not bad trailers when you have fixed everything but you gotta wonder why they're not built properly out of the factory. I certainly wouldn't buy one again.

As for the noisy suspension, I've managed to cure most of that. Not sure if you have the same design 'slipper loop' springs, but I found mine were bolted up too tight causing the frame to clamp on to the spring making a hell of a racket. I backed the tension right off, applied a little grease and everything is nice and quiet now.

[timddo]

Mate i got the same problem.

Boat sold was 5.45 but LOA is 5.75, now trailer is dunblier 5.7. I have actually purchased the longest tongue $160 from TJM ( it's a solid steel drawbar). and have move the boat back a few centimeters. It seems to work well, except the tow tongue looks funny