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jeffo
26-04-2009, 09:36 AM
Setting up a dual battery system in my new boat, looking at prices of 4 position battery switches. They seam to range from 25 dollars up to over 100 dollars. As i am not mechanically minded I'm curious to know which will cover me.

Cheers.

Spaniard_King
26-04-2009, 10:05 AM
Jeffo, this is what you need part # 113651

http://www.bla.com.au/index.php?fn=productGroupView&dId=1&id=2758&eId=10&actual_dId=79&sId=21a2d27bfcad8115c01fa7f631ae8b46

Grand_Marlin
26-04-2009, 01:18 PM
G'day Jeffo,

Gary is spot on.

This is the best thing on the market.

Cheers

Pete

Maccas
26-04-2009, 03:31 PM
If this is the best for one engine two batteries what is the best switch for twin engines on my KC 5.2? I am considering changing the factory setup which has those key type switches on each battery box as I have some sort of slow leak which is making the batteries go flat after 6 weeks ( been busy or weather crap so no fishing):( This didn't happen in my previous boat which had one master switch contolling the whole set up. So which switch and are the old switches the likely source of leakage?

Cheers,

Maccas

finga
26-04-2009, 05:35 PM
If this is the best for one engine two batteries what is the best switch for twin engines on my KC 5.2? I am considering changing the factory setup which has those key type switches on each battery box as I have some sort of slow leak which is making the batteries go flat after 6 weeks ( been busy or weather crap so no fishing):( This didn't happen in my previous boat which had one master switch contolling the whole set up. So which switch and are the old switches the likely source of leakage?

Cheers,

Maccas
That would need someone with a bit of ability to go through the wiring to see how the batteries are isolated and what else (if anything) is connected to the batteries before the isolators.
Some salt residue across the switches may cause slow discharging of the batteries but only inspection and testing will tell for sure.
Where are you Maccas?
If in Brisbane then I'd be getting Pete (grandmarlin) to have a bopeep especially if the wiring has not been checked lately.

Maccas
26-04-2009, 06:23 PM
GM is bit far away, I am on south coast WA. Have had a pro look at wiring so am thinking the leak is the switches but not sure if it could be anything else. I just thought I would see if anyone had a similar experience. BTW thebatteries only go flat when the isolator switch is left on.

Cheers,

Maccas

Grand_Marlin
26-04-2009, 06:44 PM
BTW thebatteries only go flat when the isolator switch is left on.

Cheers,

Maccas

If that is not a typo, then turn your isolator switches off - this will stop any current drain from the batteries.

The battery switch we mentioned is for charging two batteries off one power source.
You would need two separate VSR's with the second output line to the other side battery.

Cheers

Pete

Monza
26-04-2009, 06:56 PM
I have one similar to this and it works great. Installed 5 years ago in a harsh environment at stern of boat with no problems.
http://www.bla.com.au/index.php?fn=productGroupView&dId=1&id=608&eId=10&actual_dId=79&sId=21a2d27bfcad8115c01fa7f631ae8b46

I just switch between batteries every second trip to keep both topped up - nice and simple.

Monza

John Buoy
26-04-2009, 06:58 PM
I have some sort of slow leak which is making the batteries go flat after 6 weeks

Maccas
Do you have a am/fm/cd player?
If so check the radio doesn't bypass the switches as the radios
memory is always active and can drain the battery.::)

Regards Frank

finga
26-04-2009, 07:27 PM
GM is bit far away, I am on south coast WA. Have had a pro look at wiring so am thinking the leak is the switches but not sure if it could be anything else. I just thought I would see if anyone had a similar experience. BTW thebatteries only go flat when the isolator switch is left on.

Cheers,

Maccas
Whoops. I misread the post. I thought you already had the isolators off :-[

jeffo
26-04-2009, 08:16 PM
Thanks for the feed back guys.

One question though...what makes that set up worth 150 bucks more than one of these if i change batteries manually? Starting on one battery and charging both while under way?

http://www.biasboating.com.au/p-406-4-position-battery-switch-bep.aspx

FNQCairns
26-04-2009, 08:26 PM
Possibly they do not last well? i know the other type with the round dial 1/2/all/off type can cause more trouble than they are worth from personal experience.

I have been too lazy so far to rig my boat up with a second battery but when I do, it will be a solenoid with an inline manual total shut off. Working these days more than ever on the kiss principle.

cheers fnq

Maccas
26-04-2009, 09:05 PM
Grand Marlin

I now do turn the isolator switch off in this boat but didn't have any problems in the old boat. The setup in this boat is different (1990 KC 5.2 with several key type switches ) to the other which was Sharkcat Sportsman 500 with one switch rotary dial with one battery, the other battery,both,or off. The system in the KC is as standard from the factory with 3 key type switches to achieve the same result. Has been 2 weeks since charged batteries not flat so turning isolator will probably solve problem, so far so good.

John Bouy

I have got a radio/cd player so maybe that is a problem when isolator is not turned off.

Cheers,

Maccas

John Buoy
26-04-2009, 09:30 PM
Grand Marlin

John Bouy

I have got a radio/cd player so maybe that is a problem when isolator is not turned off.

Cheers,

Maccas
95% guaranteed ;D Also check that your stereo is not connected directly
to the battery source and bypasses the switch as this will still drain your
battery even with the isolator turned off;)

Regards Frank

Spaniard_King
26-04-2009, 09:41 PM
Thanks for the feed back guys.

One question though...what makes that set up worth 150 bucks more than one of these if i change batteries manually? Starting on one battery and charging both while under way?

http://www.biasboating.com.au/p-406-4-position-battery-switch-bep.aspx

Jeffo,

You can certainly do as you have discribed, what the system I mentioned does is take any chance of forgetting to isolate both batteries and it ensures both are kept fully charged (as Long as charging system is working) You could say it takes the human error out of the equation

finding_time
26-04-2009, 09:59 PM
If this is the best for one engine two batteries what is the best switch for twin engines on my KC 5.2? I am considering changing the factory setup which has those key type switches on each battery box as I have some sort of slow leak which is making the batteries go flat after 6 weeks ( been busy or weather crap so no fishing):( This didn't happen in my previous boat which had one master switch contolling the whole set up. So which switch and are the old switches the likely source of leakage?

Cheers,

Maccas

Maccas

Mate i have the same problem from time to time, those key type isolator swiches in the kc's face foward and do get alot of spray from time to time , specially if the little skirts on the keys are no longer there ! I have had the keys short out before and have replaces both as niether could be swiched off! I'm seriously looking at changing the set -up as it is a week link if you do alot of rough weather work!

Ian

Maccas
27-04-2009, 12:28 AM
Ian,

I reckon that you could be right. So what would you replace the factory isolator system with, seeing as earlier in the thread someone reckoned that the rotary dial type switch can give trouble. I had this system (rotary dial) in my Sharkcat and didn't have any trouble but it was actually installed inside the battery box so didn't get wet. Maybe the switch were made better then (1991) or the fact that it didn't get wet why I didn't have any trouble.


Cheers,

Maccas

ozbee
27-04-2009, 09:31 AM
isnt this becoming a thing of the pass . factory option or if not standard is duel charging other than a main isolator all this switching is one less hassle

Maccas
28-04-2009, 01:01 AM
Ozbee,

My KC 5.2 has a separate battery for each outboard with a factory system of switching that allows me to:

1. use either battery to start either outboard ( handy if one is flat)
2. use either outboard to charge either battery (handy if you have a charging
problem with either outboard)
3. use both batteries
4. isolate one or both batteries.

This makes things safer and more convenient.

I don't like the facctory set up which uses push in type keys and was looking for advice on a better system to replace it. So any ideas?

Cheers,

Maccas

Maccas
28-04-2009, 01:01 AM
Ozbee,

My KC 5.2 has a separate battery for each outboard with a factory system of switching that allows me to:

1. use either battery to start either outboard ( handy if one is flat)
2. use either outboard to charge either battery (handy if you have a charging
problem with either outboard)
3. use both batteries
4. isolate one or both batteries.

This makes things safer and more convenient.

I don't like the factory set up which uses push in type keys and was looking for advice on a better system to replace it. So any ideas?

Cheers,

Maccas

Grand_Marlin
28-04-2009, 08:57 AM
G'day Maccas,

There are a number of things that can be drawing power when the switches are left on ... radios, electronic networks to sounders / gps etc, dodgy wiring etc.
The best thing is to isolate the batteries when not in use.

A big mistake I find a lot is people wiring up to the wrong side of the battery switch, or going straight to the battery and bypassing the switch.
The idea is (obviously) to isolate the battery.

If it is just the key type isolators you wish to replace, go with the BEP battery master switches.
Excellent quality.

BLA 113547, 113548 or 113550

http://www.bla.com.au/index.php?fn=productView&dId=1&id=1785&eId=10&sId=721af17587e2438cac25348d19966480

Cheers

Pete

Maccas
28-04-2009, 11:27 AM
G'day Pete,

Thanks for your help. Those switches look the goods, will get it done when I can. When I boght the boat it had wiring going straight to the battery bypassing the isolator but think I have all that sorted now, just need to check the radio/cd player and that part should be all good;D

Cheers,

Maccas

Bowser
29-04-2009, 06:13 PM
I am building a new boat up and am looking at the wiring now and am confused by the BEP options. They have the VSR with a single switch that is supposed to look after the batteries and ensure that the start battery always maintains charge and then they have the VSR with a cluster of 3 switches to do the same job. Why would you use the more expensive cluster set up when the single switch appears to do the job and save having to remember to throw switches? My boat is a simple trailerable centre console so won't need any power once out of the water on the trailer for auto bilge pumps etc.

John Buoy
29-04-2009, 07:08 PM
I am building a new boat up and am looking at the wiring now and am confused by the BEP options. They have the VSR with a single switch that is supposed to look after the batteries and ensure that the start battery always maintains charge and then they have the VSR with a cluster of 3 switches to do the same job. Why would you use the more expensive cluster set up when the single switch appears to do the job and save having to remember to throw switches? My boat is a simple trailerable centre console so won't need any power once out of the water on the trailer for auto bilge pumps etc.
Different clusters for different applications ie type and quantity of alternators.
For your aplication the single swith with a VSR is perfect.
http://www.bep.co.nz/Single-Engine%2C-Two-Battery-Banks-180-1460.html

Regards Frank