Is there an easy way to change a bearing race?

[Alchemy]

Hi,

I've just had one of the disk rotors from Alchemy's trailer machined, and am replacing the brake pads, bearings and bearing races while its off the trailer.

I've always found getting the old races out a real PITA, and only marginally easier getting the new ones in.

Does anyone here have any tips to make this an easier process as I still have three wheels to go :-/

Thanks,
Dave.

[Gilli]

Getting the races off is reasonably simple, just tap them off with either a solid metal bar or a screwdriver which has the metal stem running through it from butt to tip.

Getting the races back in requires a little bit of mucking around but still is simple. Simply get the biggest socket you have, or use the old race, sit the new race in the hub and give it a lil tap then put the old race on top of it and use it to hammer it in so your not directly hammering the new race.

A little tip is put a smudge of molykote or grease or oil around the new race and then go from there, it will take a lil bit of gentle persuasion to knock it in but works a charm everytime.

[trymyluck]

Bigger Hammer!!!!!!;D;D;D;D

Mark

[BILLY THE KID]

Getting the races off is reasonably simple, just tap them off with either a solid metal bar or a screwdriver which has the metal stem running through it from butt to tip.

Getting the races back in requires a little bit of mucking around but still is simple. Simply get the biggest socket you have, or use the old race, sit the new race in the hub and give it a lil tap then put the old race on top of it and use it to hammer it in so your not directly hammering the new race.

A little tip is put a smudge of molykote or grease or oil around the new race and then go from there, it will take a lil bit of gentle persuasion to knock it in but works a charm everytime.

this is the easiest method , BUT !!! make sure the old race being used to tap the new one in is around the wrong way so the bigger diameter lips are touching .

have seen the old one wedged in the new one before with nasty results tapping the old one out and gouging the new one

[ozbee]

if really tight just run a very light bead of weld around inner race face they will fall out once they cool . handy hint leave a smear of grease on the housing of the hub for those people with a unsteady hand.

[Mad-One]

Spray it with Loctite freeze it

Phil

[Benny01]

easiest way for inexperienced person would be to use the old race upside down and if you have a bench grinder run it around the the outer so it doesnt get stuck in there.

you will her the tapping sound change when the bearing is seated

[datamile]

There appears to a simple utube vid to show the tap it method. It also shows inspection etc.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6k2T79nHXgw

I've could get the freeze method to work when I had one fail on motorbike at speed.

[upstart]

I use an old race that I've ground down slightly with the bench grinder. Fits perfectly and then you can smash the new one in.

[Alchemy]

Thanks for all the advice. ATM I smack the inner (large) one out with a cold chisel. This last time it was so tight that it shattered. Quite good actually as it just fell out then. To get the new one in I tapped it in with a brass drift, then used the old on to drive home. Then had to knock the old one out. Again, very tight. I like the ideas of using the freeze spray, thanks Phil; and the grinding down of the outside of the old race, thanks Benny and Upstart. I reckon the idea of the weld bead could be a goer too, thanks Ozbee.

The outer race is far easier as I can get a socket in from the rear that fits the race diameter perfectly and then attach an extension and smack away. Getting the new one is just the reverse.

Will post up my success or frustrations after I attack the next one.

Thanks,
Dave.

[Cheech]

I use an old race that I've ground down slightly with the bench grinder. Fits perfectly and then you can smash the new one in.

This is what I do as well.

Also, instead of a cold chisel, I think you are better to just use a solid punch. You may be overdoing your taps with the cold chisel, making it lop sided and tight. ie: creating the tightness that may not actually be there. With a smaller punch and doing a little at a time working continually around the race will keep it relatively flat and even and easier to get out.

[Argle]

Might be an expensive way to go about it but Im looking at buying a set of bearing drivers to do the job. Just got to find a supplier who has them available in the smaller sizes, so far ive only been able to find them in kits ranging from small to just plain huge but the kit costs a gazillion dollars. Anyone seen smaller kits around anywhere?

Cheers
Scott

[Noelm]

as simple as any method for the one off (almost) home handyman is to put the new cups in the freezer before you start, that way by the time you have removed the wheel and smacked out the old one, by any of the methods described before, the new one is icey cold and makes for a much easier installation

[Benny01]

Might be an expensive way to go about it but Im looking at buying a set of bearing drivers to do the job. Just got to find a supplier who has them available in the smaller sizes, so far ive only been able to find them in kits ranging from small to just plain huge but the kit costs a gazillion dollars. Anyone seen smaller kits around anywhere?

Cheers
Scott

any kits like that are always expensive and never really work properly and theres always something in the toolbox that will do the job the same for free

[Ally Jack]

I'd steer clear of using cold chisels and other hard tools to drive in/out the outer races, same with using old races. Like you have already had with a outer cracking, the tools can also shatter and the pieces dislodged are sharp, can really fly and skin won't stop it. I'm still waiting for a piece to come back out of my arm.

Stick to copper drifts, even key steel which is softer than normal steel is really good, the head deforms a bit but is easily ground up again.

Also follow what noelm said, put them in the freezer for a couple of hours. Start the job with this and they'll be ready when you've removed the old outer races. They will shrink and can be dropped in, just drive the home to the shoulder when the chill has gone.

Ally Jack

[BM]

Argle,

buying bearing drivers would be a waste of money. Grind down an old set of cups (as mentioned) and you have your bearing drivers.

I have always intended to grind a set down for use on customers trailers but I have never actually got around to doing it. I just use the old cups and then punch them back out again.

I use a long flat blade screwdriver.

Cheers