BaitThrower
05-04-2009, 12:09 PM
Ok folks, here's a bit of a story re my recent tinnie upgrade which is just about completed...
Ok, started out with a 1990 Sea Jay 4.3m open tinnie (not sure what model but looks similar to Sea Jay's current "Angler" series.
This boat has been owned by a few people and has had its share of knocks, dings and run ins with other boats down in Tasmania... hence the dents and dings in the hull, but all are still water tight...
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat1.jpg
This is the "good" side of the tinnie... Only one major dent in the gunwhale on this side (run in with a fishing trawler near a dock apparently!)
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat2.jpg
The not so good side with a few dents and raised parts in the side walls. But still no leaks :P
The boat has two foam filled seats which are riveted on... There was no evidence of a third seat in the middle that I could see.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat3.jpg
On the inside everything is coated with yellow paint with white fleck. I believe this is original paint and still in good condition, minus a few scratches and general wear here and there... I will not be touching the paint on the inside for now. It's still in fine order.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat4.jpg
The tinnie came with a 1986 Mariner 15Hp motor (long shaft). It was pretty rough cosmetically but mechanically in good order. Easy to start and reliable. Motor was actually made by Yamaha, and essentially a Yamaha model outboard. However, it was far too small for a boat like this, even though it would still plane the boat with two adults and a very light load. Since I am putting a floor in the boat though and carrying more weight, it needed something a little more... I ended up selling this motor on Ebay for just under $400.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat11.jpg
I then found a 30Hp 2002 model Yamaha long leg outboard on Ebay and picked it up for $1200. In excellent condition inside and out and should give more power to the boat to push the extra load. Would have liked a 40hp but money was scarce. Maybe later. I hope to eventually convert this boat to a forward steer so may look at a larger motor with trim and tilt and forward controls later on. For now, this motor will suffice.
Next was the major project... putting in a floor between the froward and rear thwart seats. I went with treated pine, which in hindsight was probably not the best option and may have cost just as much to get aluminium supports welded in, but that's another story... I cut the crossmembers to sit on the cross beams so they would be up off the floor and work witht he current supports. These were sealed with epoxy wood treatment x 2 coats, then marine enamel x 2 coats.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat5.jpg
I also ended up cutting holes in the supports to reduce the amount of timber and to lighten the load a little.
On top of the frame is 12mm external CD Ply. Again, coated with epoxy treatment x 2 and 2 coats of marine enamel. All cut edges got at least 3 coats of epoxy and 3 of marine enamel.
(sorry no pics of floor)
The floor is notched around the supports and not screwed down, apart from the battery box which is screwed to the floor which kinda helps hold it together. It won't go anyhere however. and is quite secure.
Ok, onto the final pictures as the boat is as of today....
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat6.jpg
The sides all got 2 coats of marine enamel. I wasnt planning on painting it this year, but the old rego stickers (one of which has been painted on) and other coats of covering paint made it difficult to put the new rego stickers on without a lot of contrast. The existing paint was in good condition, hardly flaking anywhere so I abraded the surface lightly with sandpaper and cleaned it all down before applying two coats of marine enamel. Note this is just a temporary solution... I will see how this wears over the next year and if needed, will strip it all back properly with chemical stripper and the like then 2-pack coat it in 12 months (again, if needed).
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat8.jpg
Next was installing and running all the electronics and lights including LED nav lights, LED ancor light, transducer and sounder cable, 2 x LED cabin lights, and 27Mhz radio antenna.
All fastened using stainless steel screws/nuts with Duralac layer between metal surfaces. Transducer mounting and other holes exposed to potential water intrusion also got sealed with Sikaflex.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat9.jpg
I built a large battery box and "console" to place all the electronics and other gadgets. The battery box holds a 120Ah deep cycle battery + a 7Ah smaller battery which is for direct connection to the sounder (to avoid power supply/noise issues). The console is made from the leftover 12mm external CD ply from the floor and epoxy sealed with 2 x coat, followed by 2 coats of Feast Watson Spar Marine varnish (which is great product) and has UV inhibitors as well etc. All edges got extra coats. Water-resistant glue used and screwed together with stainless screws. The console is sedcured to the floor using ally angle.
Carpet was then cut and laid over the floor and cut out to fit over the console. All these methods are designed to be removable, should Ineed to check under the floor at some stage etc. Removal will be a bit of an effort, but not overly difficult.
You might also notice the Yamaha 30Hp raised up 2 inches to set it to proper height with cav plate in line with bottom of hull. I mentioned this in another post. note the bracket clamps only just enagging the top of the transom. i was worried this may not hold too well, but with two sets of bolts through the transom down lower, hopefully this will not be a problem. The outboard is quite secure, bolted to the transom lower as well. Shouldn't be a problem I think! There is a sealed block of dense hardwood under the transom bracket to fill that gap and provide support under the outboard bracket. Again, a semi-temporary solution until I can afford to go and the transom welded up with new ally to the proper height... but the bolt holes will remain in the same location anyway,, so until then, this method will do the job.
Rod holders added to front of console, as well as one of the LED lights. On the sides are those fold-out drink holders. The white cable in the radio antenna cable.
One last addition to do is to fit a clear perspex screen to the tid of the console. This will add a little extra splash/spray protection to the back of the electronics fitted to the top (sounder/GPS). This will be secured with ally angle. This is next weekends project (but is only a 15 minute job).
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat10.jpg
Cabling was run under the carpet under a cable protection plate thingy. I could have run the cables under the floor in a conduit, but this way provides easier access should I need to get to them. The console houses the 27Mhz GME radio, flush mounted, as well as the switch panel with 5 switches and a 12v outlet integrated. There is also another LED light mounted here (use it mostly for rigging tackle or reading maps at night). Sounder is an Eagle Fishmark 320 B&W and the other mounting if for my Garmin 76CSx mapping GPS (battery operated).
All wires run in split wiring loom with all connections soldered and heatshrinked, then sprayed with lanolin spray.
Well, thats about it. The piccies should show more than the words explain.
I do have the clamp on thwart seat swivels with fold down seats which provide a comfortable seating arrangment and extra height for legs above the floor.
Also to go in are 3 x plastic rod holders which will secure into the thwarts to hold the fishing rods.
No bait board yet, but thinking of adding a couple of those plastic storage things that sit over the gunwhales for storage and the like.
The 22L gas tank I am trying to fit under the front seat. The tank that came with the outboard does not fit so I have another tank out the back still to put in and try. if not, may consider 2 x 12L tanks which will fit under. I want to place these up front for weight distribution. There is sitll LOTS of room behind the back seat in front of the transom... I dont want to put too much weight here so may store the lifejackets here as they will fit nicely, and perhaps another plastic storage box with all the tackle and other bits and pieces.
All safety gear will go in a floating safety gear bag and be held up front near the anchor storage area etc.
Hope you liked the upgrade and the story and got some ideas from it :)
Ok, started out with a 1990 Sea Jay 4.3m open tinnie (not sure what model but looks similar to Sea Jay's current "Angler" series.
This boat has been owned by a few people and has had its share of knocks, dings and run ins with other boats down in Tasmania... hence the dents and dings in the hull, but all are still water tight...
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat1.jpg
This is the "good" side of the tinnie... Only one major dent in the gunwhale on this side (run in with a fishing trawler near a dock apparently!)
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat2.jpg
The not so good side with a few dents and raised parts in the side walls. But still no leaks :P
The boat has two foam filled seats which are riveted on... There was no evidence of a third seat in the middle that I could see.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat3.jpg
On the inside everything is coated with yellow paint with white fleck. I believe this is original paint and still in good condition, minus a few scratches and general wear here and there... I will not be touching the paint on the inside for now. It's still in fine order.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat4.jpg
The tinnie came with a 1986 Mariner 15Hp motor (long shaft). It was pretty rough cosmetically but mechanically in good order. Easy to start and reliable. Motor was actually made by Yamaha, and essentially a Yamaha model outboard. However, it was far too small for a boat like this, even though it would still plane the boat with two adults and a very light load. Since I am putting a floor in the boat though and carrying more weight, it needed something a little more... I ended up selling this motor on Ebay for just under $400.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat11.jpg
I then found a 30Hp 2002 model Yamaha long leg outboard on Ebay and picked it up for $1200. In excellent condition inside and out and should give more power to the boat to push the extra load. Would have liked a 40hp but money was scarce. Maybe later. I hope to eventually convert this boat to a forward steer so may look at a larger motor with trim and tilt and forward controls later on. For now, this motor will suffice.
Next was the major project... putting in a floor between the froward and rear thwart seats. I went with treated pine, which in hindsight was probably not the best option and may have cost just as much to get aluminium supports welded in, but that's another story... I cut the crossmembers to sit on the cross beams so they would be up off the floor and work witht he current supports. These were sealed with epoxy wood treatment x 2 coats, then marine enamel x 2 coats.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat5.jpg
I also ended up cutting holes in the supports to reduce the amount of timber and to lighten the load a little.
On top of the frame is 12mm external CD Ply. Again, coated with epoxy treatment x 2 and 2 coats of marine enamel. All cut edges got at least 3 coats of epoxy and 3 of marine enamel.
(sorry no pics of floor)
The floor is notched around the supports and not screwed down, apart from the battery box which is screwed to the floor which kinda helps hold it together. It won't go anyhere however. and is quite secure.
Ok, onto the final pictures as the boat is as of today....
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat6.jpg
The sides all got 2 coats of marine enamel. I wasnt planning on painting it this year, but the old rego stickers (one of which has been painted on) and other coats of covering paint made it difficult to put the new rego stickers on without a lot of contrast. The existing paint was in good condition, hardly flaking anywhere so I abraded the surface lightly with sandpaper and cleaned it all down before applying two coats of marine enamel. Note this is just a temporary solution... I will see how this wears over the next year and if needed, will strip it all back properly with chemical stripper and the like then 2-pack coat it in 12 months (again, if needed).
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat8.jpg
Next was installing and running all the electronics and lights including LED nav lights, LED ancor light, transducer and sounder cable, 2 x LED cabin lights, and 27Mhz radio antenna.
All fastened using stainless steel screws/nuts with Duralac layer between metal surfaces. Transducer mounting and other holes exposed to potential water intrusion also got sealed with Sikaflex.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat9.jpg
I built a large battery box and "console" to place all the electronics and other gadgets. The battery box holds a 120Ah deep cycle battery + a 7Ah smaller battery which is for direct connection to the sounder (to avoid power supply/noise issues). The console is made from the leftover 12mm external CD ply from the floor and epoxy sealed with 2 x coat, followed by 2 coats of Feast Watson Spar Marine varnish (which is great product) and has UV inhibitors as well etc. All edges got extra coats. Water-resistant glue used and screwed together with stainless screws. The console is sedcured to the floor using ally angle.
Carpet was then cut and laid over the floor and cut out to fit over the console. All these methods are designed to be removable, should Ineed to check under the floor at some stage etc. Removal will be a bit of an effort, but not overly difficult.
You might also notice the Yamaha 30Hp raised up 2 inches to set it to proper height with cav plate in line with bottom of hull. I mentioned this in another post. note the bracket clamps only just enagging the top of the transom. i was worried this may not hold too well, but with two sets of bolts through the transom down lower, hopefully this will not be a problem. The outboard is quite secure, bolted to the transom lower as well. Shouldn't be a problem I think! There is a sealed block of dense hardwood under the transom bracket to fill that gap and provide support under the outboard bracket. Again, a semi-temporary solution until I can afford to go and the transom welded up with new ally to the proper height... but the bolt holes will remain in the same location anyway,, so until then, this method will do the job.
Rod holders added to front of console, as well as one of the LED lights. On the sides are those fold-out drink holders. The white cable in the radio antenna cable.
One last addition to do is to fit a clear perspex screen to the tid of the console. This will add a little extra splash/spray protection to the back of the electronics fitted to the top (sounder/GPS). This will be secured with ally angle. This is next weekends project (but is only a 15 minute job).
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/boat10.jpg
Cabling was run under the carpet under a cable protection plate thingy. I could have run the cables under the floor in a conduit, but this way provides easier access should I need to get to them. The console houses the 27Mhz GME radio, flush mounted, as well as the switch panel with 5 switches and a 12v outlet integrated. There is also another LED light mounted here (use it mostly for rigging tackle or reading maps at night). Sounder is an Eagle Fishmark 320 B&W and the other mounting if for my Garmin 76CSx mapping GPS (battery operated).
All wires run in split wiring loom with all connections soldered and heatshrinked, then sprayed with lanolin spray.
Well, thats about it. The piccies should show more than the words explain.
I do have the clamp on thwart seat swivels with fold down seats which provide a comfortable seating arrangment and extra height for legs above the floor.
Also to go in are 3 x plastic rod holders which will secure into the thwarts to hold the fishing rods.
No bait board yet, but thinking of adding a couple of those plastic storage things that sit over the gunwhales for storage and the like.
The 22L gas tank I am trying to fit under the front seat. The tank that came with the outboard does not fit so I have another tank out the back still to put in and try. if not, may consider 2 x 12L tanks which will fit under. I want to place these up front for weight distribution. There is sitll LOTS of room behind the back seat in front of the transom... I dont want to put too much weight here so may store the lifejackets here as they will fit nicely, and perhaps another plastic storage box with all the tackle and other bits and pieces.
All safety gear will go in a floating safety gear bag and be held up front near the anchor storage area etc.
Hope you liked the upgrade and the story and got some ideas from it :)