View Full Version : motor support
dog tooth
28-03-2009, 05:52 PM
Hi guys
im going up to shoalwater at easter, so 100km of dirt road
we ar going up in a stessle 5.2 with a 90 honda
what would you guys recomend for holding the motor firmley in place when traveling the dirt road
i was thinking of a Y trailer support because this will take the stress off the transom
cheers
ivan
CreelReaper
29-03-2009, 12:05 AM
Hey Ivan,
Yes mate, in fact I'd be using it all the time personally. The flex due to the lever arm effect of the motor would have the transom flexing quite substantially and over time could cause fatigue cracking in the transom.
Shane
dog tooth
29-03-2009, 08:12 AM
thanks
ill give it a go
cheers
finga
29-03-2009, 09:59 AM
Hey Ivan,
Yes mate, in fact I'd be using it all the time personally. The flex due to the lever arm effect of the motor would have the transom flexing quite substantially and over time could cause fatigue cracking in the transom.
Shane
Yep, agree whole heatedly.
We never leave the ramp without ours on on all the boats.
It takes a minute and a half to bung on and good insurance in my books.
It's a good way to check the bungs before launch too seeing your having a gander at the back of the boat anyways
It's not only the flex on the transom I worry about. It's also the effects of the motor jumping up and down on the tilt tube and components like that.
Tilt tube bushes are usually only bits of plastic and a pain in the posteria to change.
Spaniard_King
29-03-2009, 12:25 PM
Sorry, but I have to dissagree with the Y trailer support being the best option for this setup.
The engine needs to be braced but I beleive the trailer is not the best way to brace it.. yes sure on engines without trim and tilt but his engine has a showa trim unit.. ie 2 trim rams (exposed) and 1 tilt ram. I have for a very long time used a support which slips over the trim ram so the engine can be trimed down hard taking up all movement in the steering tube and bushes. It also alows the powerhead to be centrally located directly over the transom. The flexing of the transom IMO is mainly due to the rocking to and fro of the improperlly supported engine, transom cracking IMO is mainly due to poorly designed and built transom setups.
I am sure my own transom gets a lot more stress pushing 2 ton around through breaking bars than what it gets on the road.
My setup simply involves a 20mm diameter rubber keel roller which slips over one of the trim rams and the engine is then trimmed hard onto this taking up any slop in the bushes and tubes, simple and peice of mind :)
Gaeey,
How you doing.
My support,followed the idea from Barcrusher,and has the tag for the support welded onto the actual transom.In that way ,there is no movement caused from the trailer,its all on the boat.
David
foxx510
29-03-2009, 03:15 PM
Yep if the leg is going to be supported by a support arm then I'd be wanting it attached to the transom/keel area otherwise the movement of the boat on the trailer is going to stop it from being much help.
finga
29-03-2009, 03:16 PM
Well I've learnt something new today.
Thanks Gary :)
Steve B
29-03-2009, 03:45 PM
Thanks for the advice Gary, makes good sense...
Also, if your travelling that sort of distances on dirt/rough road, make sure everything on your trailer is in good nick, especially you springs, bearings, trailer rollers tight, skids etc...good tie down strap etc etc.
Just a thought.
cheers Steve
Marlin_Mike
29-03-2009, 04:01 PM
Any chance of a pic showing your set up Garry?
Cheers
Mike
Spaniard_King
29-03-2009, 04:15 PM
Any chance of a pic showing your set up Garry?
Cheers
Mike
yep.. here are a few.. roller is a 20mm ID dog bone.. hardest thing is finding an 8 inch roller with the ID.
The cotton reel red urethane one also works well but needs some modifying to fit nicely. Was looking at buying nylon to make them but crikey its dear.. rollers are cheap and readily available
PS long trips I use 2;)
finga
29-03-2009, 04:20 PM
I have a lathe that says the ID isn't a problem :D
Something to make hey Mike??
What needed modifying with the urethane ones Gary?
Cheers Scott :)
Spaniard_King
29-03-2009, 04:31 PM
Scott, access to the lathe wasnt a problem, buying the nylon was. These things work best in nylon form for large engines to simply handle the weight although 2 rubber ones do a great job also.
I have one made from Ertalon 44 a very high strength nylon, it works really well:)
The basic form is an 8 inch (200MM)roller with 20mm bore ideally with 40mm OD The bore only needs to be 110mm deep to fit over the trim ram.
One of the local boys did the red urethane roller.. he just ground the end to fit the engine side
Marlin_Mike
29-03-2009, 04:37 PM
Definitely a possibility to make something finga;D ;D
Looks the goods;D 8-)
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/showthread.php?t=65992
Some good reading and pics here.
David
Scott nthQld
29-03-2009, 06:12 PM
something we've always done and never had a problem withh was trimming the engine right up, sliding a peice of timber between the pivot point and the tilt arm, and then trimming the engine back down hard against the timber. We've used this method for many years between us and never, ever had a problem (by we, I mean my Grandfather, father and I)
LoungeLizard
29-03-2009, 07:02 PM
Hey Ivan,
The old bit of timber trick works - towed my boat of some rough terrain and never had issues. Just take it easy and let the trailer "roll" through the bad patches and you'll be OK.
Let us know how you go, I'm thinking of going up that way later in the year.
Moonlighter
29-03-2009, 08:57 PM
Hi Garry
What an excellent bit of thinking there! Very impressive, give yourself a pat on the back. Like Finga I have learnt something too.
I especially like the fact that with the rubber or red poly roller there would be just a bit of cushioning effect.
I'll be measuring the length I need and getting a roller ether in rubber or red poly ASAP.
ML
Why Not
30-03-2009, 08:01 PM
I have a Suzuki 4 stroke 140 HP. I picked up a stainless steel brace for it which comes off of the motor/transom attachment bracket and sits up under the motor itself. It is removeable and works a treat.
A removeable pin holds the motor/transom side of the bracket in place. The motor sits on a solid stailess steel rod. It's basically a 10cm x 20 cm box pattern.
I even attach tiedown straps to the bracket and tie the motor down onto the trailer. I've launched the trailer (poor roads in the NT) and the boat, motor and trailer have settled back as one back on the road.
Why not,
How about a pic.
David
Donny Boy
31-03-2009, 09:38 AM
Thanks Gary...........
Wouldn't have thought of that as long as my arse points to the ground !!
Big road trip to Rocky at Easter.....so that'll get a go.....
reilly
31-03-2009, 07:45 PM
Simple solutions at it's best I have a 40 Yamaha with only a button been using a piece of soft pine which was a pain
Thanks Spaniard king this is what these forums are all about.
Why Not
31-03-2009, 08:46 PM
David the boat is in getting a service ready for Easter. When it is back I'll post a photo
Why Not
03-04-2009, 07:58 PM
David here are some images of the bracket I use.
Why Not,
Thanks for the pics.Did you have that made up.?
David
Why Not
03-04-2009, 10:07 PM
I purchased it in the NT
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