narva led lights

[lippa]

gidday,

just a question, I'm considering buying the narva lights which come with 9 meters of 4 core wire. how do i wire my clearance into this loom? or do i have to run a separate wire up to the connector.

cheers

lippa

[Ally Jack]

Lippa,

I'd guess you could cut into the loom and attach you clearance lights. I'd solder them in and seal it back up. If you connect your clearance lights together, you might only have to do this in 1 spot.

Ally Jack

[lippa]

so cut into the tail light wire?
how would ya connect it considering the loom will be inside the trailer chassis

[Spaniard_King]

Lippa. better of runing an etra run o twin core wire to each clearance light and joining at the plug. This way you have no joins in the water no matter how good o a join you have this is the best method

[lippa]

cheers mate, i'll end up with 4 earth wires? do i splice them, or try and shove them in the plug.

[Ally Jack]

Lippa,

I'd measure and do it before feeding it into the rail, but I think Garry has a better idea esp. if you sink the trailer that far
I'd doubt you'll get them all the earths into the plug socket, splice and solder just before the socket.

Ally Jack

[Spaniard_King]

Lippa,

On my last traile I had the 4 wires and ran them into an electrical box mounted on the winch post where they all came into a terminal strip. From there I ran 1 peice of 5 core to the trailer plug.. I did a mates trailer like this as well.. I will go take a pik of his trailer tomorrow.

Luckily my new trailer is hanging in and I havent been required to touch the wirring.

[White Pointer]

Lippa. better of runing an etra run o twin core wire to each clearance light and joining at the plug. This way you have no joins in the water no matter how good o a join you have this is the best method

G'day,

Agree with the extra run as far forward as you can. Make the join close to the plug but leave a bit of slack wire. Shrink wrap all joins and inspect every 6-months and clean and reseal.

LED lamps are great but some cars don't like them. My 2002 Landrover is OK but the 2007 Rodeo wouldn't light up the trailer brake lamps. There's an expensive fix and a cheap fix. Let me know if you have this problem.

White Pointer

[Angla]

G'day,

Agree with the extra run as far forward as you can. Make the join close to the plug but leave a bit of slack wire. Shrink wrap all joins and inspect every 6-months and clean and reseal.

LED lamps are great but some cars don't like them. My 2002 Landrover is OK but the 2007 Rodeo wouldn't light up the trailer brake lamps. There's an expensive fix and a cheap fix. Let me know if you have this problem.

White Pointer

I also have the 2007 Rodeo and have no problems with the trailer lighting which is all LED. I would suggest the socket wiring may be wrong on the car. Should be a cheap fix for an auto eleccy or handy person

Chris

[Far side]

You can join them into the looms but you will need some resin core heatshrink
Solder the joints first then use the heat shrink

We use this for underground water joints
works fine on submersable trailer wiring

[TheRealAndy]

What Garry says. I did the same thing (i dont have clearance lights though) with the electrical box. Will take a photo of it tonight for you.

[ratbag's]

Lippa, I have rewired my trailer with clearance lights & Narva tail lights. I ran the wiring thru the trailer & joined them all into 1 set of wiring into the plug. I did the splice & dice stuff, all soldered & heat shrink & taped (just to make sure). They are joined in about 18 inches back from the plug. when offloading the boat, the join is still out of the water. this was easier than cutting & joining mid section on the clearance lights.
cheers, ratbag.

[captain rednut]

ive had narva led boat trailer lites for two years and replaced them under warranty three times now which is a real piss off every time they fail! and guess what? yesterday i rang narva again and they have stopped making that model now because they fill up with water! funny that, now im in the market for a good quality water proof lite with a long harness so the join is out of the water and still cant find one, narva dont make one suitable the rep said!

[lippa]

cheers fellas,
i went to ashdowns today and bought the narva set, 30mtes twin core wire, the guy looked at me funny when I said junction box, then bought out this huge box you could run three phase into !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

if some one could post a link to the box thingy i'm chasing that would be gold.

i hope i have a better run than you CR! time will tell

thanks guys, the help is really appreciated.

cheers

lippa

[boatboy72]

lippa i make trailers and use narva stuff have not had any probs with any of products when doing a boat trailer i use a narva solder splice terminator page 155 of there catologue this is a clear shrink tube with a band glue at both ends and a band of solder in the middle just use like normal shrink and you have a water tight soldered join the splice with the second wire may let water in though

[lippa]

http://www.narva.com.au/Narva_Catalogue.html

these the ones you mean? what a great idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

[lippa]

link only shows the catalogue, in terminals connectors and cables

[captain rednut]

link only shows the catalogue, in terminals connectors and cables
am i missing the boat trailer lights in that catalogue??????????

[lippa]

its there open up the led truck and trailer lighting, then its about 10-11 pages along

[finga]

part number 57800 page 170 will do the job just dandy like :)
Bung some Lanolin grease over the terminals too after you've warmed it up with mum's hair dryer.
last for years :)

[Blackened]

am i missing the boat trailer lights in that catalogue??????????


G'day

Only thing suitable I can see is 93620TP

Dave

[lippa]

that's the one old mate showed me Scott, it 205x82x55mm the thing is massive!

[TheRealAndy]

Here is pic of my setup. Box was bought from jaycar. Mounted to the trailer using 4 M3 stainless screws. I tapped threads into the drawbar of the trailer. Inside the box there is a choky block (terminal strip) and all wires are terminated with bootlace ferules.

The first attempt had all the wires soldered and covered with heatshrink cause I though I would never have to change them. Had a blowout on the way to townsville first trip after i fitted the lights and destroyed the lights on one side. Go back and fitted a single new light and decided to wire them into chocky blocks.

BTW. If you want to buy lights try PM mad-one. He works for repco burleigh heads and can help you out.

[Gilli]

yeah like farside said, use resin core heat shrink, it has aglue inside it that gets released and totally covers any joint you have the heat shrink on. just simply run a new 1mm squared twin flex down from the hitch of your trailer to the desired position, make sure that you leave about half a meter of cable at the hitch to give yourself enough room to work.

[Live4Fishin]

Lippa, how much were the Narva's from ashdowns?? and what PN# did you get?? im gunna put the sealed led ones on my new trailer when i get it built shortley. looking at a belco trailer at the moment.

cheers beau.:)

[lippa]

well i have all the gear now, just gotta beat this flaming hangover, and i'll be in the shed wiring them up. where the 5 core wire goes into the light, the seal looks it could fracture and allow water ingree, so i've put a bit of sika around it for extra insurance. pm sent beau

[lippa]

done and finished, and they all worked fist go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I ended up mounting a weather proof utility box on the draw bar, running the cable through gland to help keep it water tight. I'm not the neastest wirer upperer, but I reckon it'll do the job for a few years

[finga]

Mate, that looks like a better job then some of the auto sparkies jobs I've seen. I'd say most but somebody might get upset.
So how many stubby job was it??
What's the shiney stuff in the box??
It'll last you a fair while. Well done :)
And it's easy to trace/rectify problems when it's done like that :D

About the only other thing I would suggest is to drill 1/4" hole in the side at the bottom so if any moisture (rain, salt, washup, beer) gets in then it can get out too.

[Spaniard_King]

you got it Lippa, Looks a perfect copy of mine :)

[lippa]

cheers for the advice guys, it made the difference.
she was about an 14 stubby job Scott, about 4 hrs.
the shiny stuff is a lanolin spray Honda puts out, good stuff.
the box technically is fully sealed, those 16mm cable glands have a rubber seal, and when tightened, should be water proof!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I used those narva solder connections on the clearance lights, they are awesome!!!!!!!!!! I run some heat shrink over the top just to be sure.

good fun having a crack at this kinda stuff yaself, the missus helped by keeping my stubby cooler well hydrated!

cheers again

lippa

[finga]

Mate, don't depend on those gland for waterproofing where there's two cables going in through one gland.
There's always a gap there somewhere between the two cables that H2O stuff gets in.

[Gilli]

yeah mate like finga said, those glands are not water proof fittings, i use them all the time at work and the only thing that they stop is a little bit of moisture.


What i would suggest,is make sure all of your connections in that box are tight and arent going to come out. then go down to your nearest electrical wholesaler and purchase some resin, its just like epoxy, just flexible and its a two part mixture, mix it together and fill the box just till it is over the terminal strip, put a dob of silicon in each terminal on that terminal strip so no epoxy will get onto the screw head and youll be right.

regards,
Chris

[White Pointer]

ive had narva led boat trailer lites for two years and replaced them under warranty three times now which is a real piss off every time they fail! and guess what? yesterday i rang narva again and they have stopped making that model now because they fill up with water! funny that, now im in the market for a good quality water proof lite with a long harness so the join is out of the water and still cant find one, narva dont make one suitable the rep said!

G'day,

My lamps fell apart on the trailer in 6-months. I went to REPCO and spent $150 on LEDs and they came with 6M leads, each side separate, only joining at the plug. Had some issues with resistance on the Rodeo for the brake lights but overcame that by putting a single incandescent globe in the line just before the trailer plug. Been good for 6-months now - not a mark.

White Pointer

[TheRealAndy]

yeah mate like finga said, those glands are not water proof fittings, i use them all the time at work and the only thing that they stop is a little bit of moisture.


What i would suggest,is make sure all of your connections in that box are tight and arent going to come out. then go down to your nearest electrical wholesaler and purchase some resin, its just like epoxy, just flexible and its a two part mixture, mix it together and fill the box just till it is over the terminal strip, put a dob of silicon in each terminal on that terminal strip so no epoxy will get onto the screw head and youll be right.

regards,
Chris
Nooo, dont use the resins!! It makes it damn near impossible to fix!. A small hole is a much better idea. We used to use that 2 part silicone in waterproof sensors and it is pretty good, however the stuff still gets water in it.

If you look at the photo of mine, you will see that the 2 glands from the lights are at the bottom of the box. I did this so that its harder for water to get in, and if it does get in the glands are at a good spot to get it out. I also left a bit of excess cable in my box, so that I can pull the terminal strip out to wire it..

[Gilli]

Yes the realandy, the resins are 110% watertight, we use it on HV joints underwater here in townsville. In the lakes central, it is 5% higher salinity levels than the ocean and not a scerick of water gets in and harms our joints, not to mention that the resin also holds your cables in place alongside with the cable glands.

If you have to fix it,it would be because
A. you either have a hot/lose joint

Or

B.You need to replace that length of cable.

However, the two glands on the bottom of the box is an excellent idea to allow water to drain out, but the downside to that is that water doesnt tend to drain out of a sealed box to quickly, especially when the cable glands are done up tight as they are meant to be.

Be sure to put a dob of silicon on the screw down points that hold your enclosure to the frame and even smear it around the side of the lid before you screw it down as those boxes dont normally have very good seals on them.

Regards,
Chris

[TheRealAndy]

Yes the realandy, the resins are 110% watertight, we use it on HV joints underwater here in townsville. In the lakes central, it is 5% higher salinity levels than the ocean and not a scerick of water gets in and harms our joints, not to mention that the resin also holds your cables in place alongside with the cable glands.

If you have to fix it,it would be because
A. you either have a hot/lose joint

Or

B.You need to replace that length of cable.

However, the two glands on the bottom of the box is an excellent idea to allow water to drain out, but the downside to that is that water doesnt tend to drain out of a sealed box to quickly, especially when the cable glands are done up tight as they are meant to be.

Be sure to put a dob of silicon on the screw down points that hold your enclosure to the frame and even smear it around the side of the lid before you screw it down as those boxes dont normally have very good seals on them.

Regards,
Chris

I used to use the silicon stuff on water conductivity sensors. Basically a couple of coils of wire in a plastic part. I must admit there were very few returns, but we did still get some. For the most part it was pretty shit hot stuff.

The glands i got from jaycar did not even have the rubber washers that fit between the gland and the case. I figured the thing would not get that wet anyway, only when its raining. Been on there for a while now and still ok. I reckon lippa's idea with the lanolin spray is the go. That stuff managed to make my airlock lights keep going for 6 months after they were completley cracked and stuffed. Also managed to keep the smashed up LED light going for about 2 months as well!

The screws that hold the box down are in little holes that are sealed by the lid. If you take a look at my second pic you can see one of the mounting screws. The box is a little different to lippers. I would not say the box itself is waterproof, maybe water resistant if you are lucky, but it will do just fine.

Kinda OT, And I have said it many times here before, but having spent a lot of time doing insturmentation in wet environments the only real way to waterproof electrics/electronics is to use positive pressure inside the box, usually by using nitrogen or dried compressed air. A lot of food processing factories do this as they need to be washed down each day with high pressure water. Works a treat and is the only thing I have ever found to be 100% watertight!

[lippa]

i had one of these led lights crack, and short the circuit.

i must say the crew from ashdowns ingram, and the rep from narva were awesome. i had a replacement in 2 days at no cost. these guys bent over backwards to get me back on the road.

ashdowns are awesome for all your automotive electrical needs, and being wholesalers its usally alot chaper than the reatil stores.

cheers

lippa

[ozscott]

Bringing up and old post - Lippa or Garry or anyone else, where do you get those waterproof joiner boxes and grommet fittings? Jaycar? I have just bought Narva submersible LED's with individual looms that run from each light to the trailer plug that I am fitting this weekend. I could solder the wires from each loom to a piece of 7 core trailer wire to the plug, cover each solder joint in starbright and then annealing tape, but I wondered if the box is a better idea, especially if I damage just one light - lot less work to change out.

Cheers

[ozscott]

Ahha..that is a 240v box. I just picked one up with the screw in nipples from Haymans.

Cheers

[ozscott]

Got the gland fittings and box at Haymens and fitted it all up today. Those Narva LED's are bright! So no joins to the box on the draw bar.

Cheers

[deckie]

I joined them up inside the drawbar. Not all are box steel though of course. Cheapo chocolate box to connect up wires, then potted in epoxy to wproof and threaded it up into drawbar with a fair bit of excess cable both ends. If need to fix/change anything i'll just chop it off and do same again for maybe $5 cost. No issues so far and no cable glands used/no jiffy boxes either.