Bonding rubber

[mungindi]

Morning '
I was wondering if anyone knows of any type of glue which is avaliable that can be used to bond two pices of rubber together. The pieces I'm looking at trying to stick together are the ends of my rubrail where they meet at the bow of my boat. The join isn't of any structual importance but I would like it to be permanent if possible and it would have to be "waterproof ".
I'm not able to get an end cap to go over the join as I had the rubber rubrail custom made, so I just need something that I can bond the two ends together with until I can find something that will work as an end cap to help hide the join. Anyhelp on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thank's
Gary

[Blackened]

G'day

Can you use sikaflex and blend it a bit?

Dave

[mungindi]

G/Day Dave,
I've thought about sikaflex I don't really know how you would blend it though. The rubber is fairly pliable so there is no real problem making it go around the curves of the boat, just looking to bond together the two end pieces where they meet at the bow. A mate suggested I try one of the tyre mobs to see what they can come up with I think I will give them a go.
Thank's for the idea I appreciate it
Gary

[Blackened]

G'day

Other than that, some kind of araldite, or can you get an end capping made up?

Boat without a bow capping usually have one piece rubber system, maybe google boatpoint, see if you can get some bow shots and get an idea?

Dave

[FNQCairns]

Nothing adhesive will work for long if the sun ever shines on it. Vulcanising it is the best way. a wide enough blade,a gas cooker and 2 people will provide a near forever join if done right.

cheers fnq

[John Buoy]

What about Shoo Goo great for bonding rubber and waterproof.

If it's silicon rubber or even worse polyurethane
the you will need a specialist product ;)

Regards frank

[Stuart]

I glue quite alot of rubber together and I use outdoor contact. I'm yet to have any rubber sheats come apart to this day.

Stu

[shrunken pojie]

Hi Gary,

Have you thought about just getting a tire repair kit and using the glue out of there? My other thought was just get a bit of galvanised sheet metal and bend yourself up an end cap. It my not be pretty but it would be functional until you can find a proper one.

Phill

[cormorant]

Just use some Sika to fill it in.Mask it when applying and some soapy water on a finger to smooth. Clean up with turps.

For a permanent solution make a cardboard template of the angle and get suitable pipe bent to shape in ally or stainless and then just die grind, angle grind or bandsaw the back out of it.

If it is a really tight bend just weld 2 halves of a pipe together at the right angle.

Any stainless shop would be able to knock one up pretty fast and just a counter sunk 4 holes to secure it to the hull.

[oldboot]

All the adhesives mentioned above will have problems.

What you need is an industrial superglue product.

That is what they use to glue seals on refrigerated truck doors and the like.

The joint must be very well fitting... like knife mitred... no gaps no gammy bits.

the product of choice is a locktite product but most of the commercial superglues such as "hotstuff" ( popular in wood craft) would do the job.

a medium viscosity product may be a better choice.... but it goes off slower ( good and bad)

I have seen refrigerated door seals that have lasted many years in the joint.

But as I say the joint fit must be perfect... and you only get one chance once the joint has been contaminated all bets are off.......your only choice is to recut the joint.

a couple of tips

use an absolutly rasor sharp knife...if using a stanley knife it must be a virgin blade....and clean it with thinners first.

get the angle perfect and even

If it is a heavy moulding you might get away with cutting it with a miter saw or a saw bench using a fine blade.

clean up the surfaces with thinners and let it dry well.

superglue is fast but the glue you use may be a little slower and the joint may need to be held closed with tape or finders till it goes off.

DO NOT glue yourself to the job....if you are clumsy or messy use sergical gloves.

Depending on the product there may be a primer or accelerator available that will either improve bond or make the stuff go off realy realy fast.

After the glue has set you will be able to shape the joint with a knife or such.

Superglue may set up fast but if you can leave it 24 hours before you mess with it too much.

All this assumes that the mould is normal rubber... if it is plastic particularly polyeythelene, or the nylon related plastics forget glues.......some sort of "welding" is the go.
which consistes of heating up both halves till they are tacky and sticking them together.

best of luck

cheers

[foxx510]

Bearing shops often sell the Loctite Prism superglue(cyanoacrylate) which is pretty good stuff. The other good superglues are found at hobby stores, Zap brand and Flash brand are good and come in 3 different viscosities. Keep it in the fridge as it goes off much pretty quickly otherwise.

[oldboot]

These commercial superglues are a big step along from the domestic consumer grade product.

the locktite products cane be had from most bearing and eingineering suppliers.

the various other brands ( and there are a few) can be has from the various specilist hobiest and craft suppliers.

goods suspects
Wood craft suppliers particularly those supplying wood turners.
Carbatec, Garry Pye, Carrol's woodcraft, timbecon

Model suppliers particulay those supplying model plane types


jewlery, lapidary and gem suppliers
The bead and gem shop out the back of pepper town.

You would be surpised what gets stuck down with this stuff.

cheers

[mungindi]

Afternoon,
First up thank you to everyone for taking the time to help me out with this I appreciate it. I will check out whether I can get the LockTite super glue, that sounds like it will go a long way to getting it held together for the time being. The angle at the bow is fairly sharp so it looks like I will have to get an end cap made up for it, the idea of welding two sections of split pipe together and having some counter sunk holes drilled looks like it will be the way to go. As soon as I can get the boat out of my shed and onto the trailer it shouldn't be to hard to find someone who can knock one up for me in a bigger town, there's no one out here who welds S/Steel or alloy. Anyway thank's again to everyone for their help.
Gary

[SNAPPERCOFFIN]

Sikaflex will work sand both side that are sticking together thoughly and when puting the sika on don't squeeze it all out try and leave a couple of mm thickness.

Mark

[Mad-One]

loctite 406 is strong as and sold at repco. about $20 for a 25ml bottle I think

Mad

[oldboot]

Now dont get me wrong, sicaflex make some spactacular products, and I have used a few different ones.

But I do not believe that it will produce a long term "as good as welded join" in rubber like a good quality cyanoacrilate (superglue ) will.

Good superglue works incredibly well on tight fitting rubber joints.

Done properly and you will not seperate the joint at the glue line, chunks will tear out of one or other part of the joint.

A large proportion of commercial refigeration seals are done this way and most of them fail elswhere than the glueline.

Water and UV exposure are less of a problem because of appart from the glue being very resistant the glueline is soo thin there is almost nothing to expose to the eliments.

Those made to length "O" rings are joined with superglue and they will (if properly done) withstand all sorts including being used as drive belts.

Do the joint properly with a good quality superglue and it will be durable and permanent.....and with some patience and skill... very neat.....

cheers

[abbykait]

I have glued recycled tyre rubber mats together with sikaflex. Thay have stuck well, they are out in the weather the whole time.

[oldboot]

I've glued rubber with a number of things and lots of things will work well when there is plenty of surface area and not too much peeling or tensile force.

Like lap joining rubber belting for small conveyors....almost any contact cement will do.

Rubber mats, rubber sheet, heels on shoes, stoppers and feet.....all glue down very wiell with a number of adhesives.

Where the superglues come into their own is small surface area but jointing or mitre jointing of rubber moulds and belts, seriously I do not believe there is anything that even nearly matches it.

Actulay I would argue that apart from skin, rubber is possibly the most effective material that superglue works on.

cheers

[Roughasguts]

Yep have to agree with old boot. I remember when I got my first tube of super Glue and was chewing the plastic end off, and with a slight hole made by me teeth and a bit of a squeeze I had me tounge glued to the roof of me mouth.

Yeah that wasn't the only dumb thing I done bloody lucky to still be living.

[oldboot]

Oh yeh... and the thing they do not tell you.

Whatever you do do not swallow uncured superglue.

Over a certain ammount and it causes the fluid in your eyes to go cloudy.....irreversable......blindness... nothing that can be done.

that is why retail packs of superglue are the size they are.

oh and the fumes can get very uncomfoartable in the throat and the eyes when used in quantity.....fresh air and ventilation.

Some people are very sensitive to fumes and contact with the skin.

cheers