Should I replace the lot? (trailer undercarrage)

[Dinga04]

Hi All,
The wheel bearings on my trailer are stuffed so I can't get it to a trailer place for them to check it out. From the photo's attached what needs replacing? Ie Springs, hub, axle, brakes?

I'm prepared to replace the lot, but don't want to change something for the sake of it.

I have been quoted approx $600 for all parts, for which I can assemble myself.

Also, it appears the tyres are re-treads (light truck). They look almost new. Are retreads OK, or should I also buy some new ones?

Thanks in advance

*Sorry, just added pics

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh231/hrc25/06092008006.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh231/hrc25/06092008.jpg

[Leighton]

just replaced the lot on my trailer, axl, u bolts hubs/bearings everything except the springs. I lost the wheel on the highway:-[had to tow trucked it home
I did need a new axl, $100 made up to a specific length at a place in Beenleigh
2 hubs and bearing assembly at $35 each from SupaCheap, U bolts and plates from SupaCheap at $8 each
so about $200 for all the parts including grease
Maybe I could have reused one sides hubs but new axl, new bearing for the sake of $35

[Hornet Rider]

Dinga, those brakes & springs look a bit sad. I guess it depends on a few things - what weight are you going to load on the trailer, how many times a year are you going to use the trailer, how far will you tow it each time, how fast do you intend to tow, how valuable is your time, how valuable is your boat, what's your budget limitations? You will usually end up getting what you pay for. The gear from Supa Cheep is usually Chinese made, therefore the specifications & quality can be less than what is actually needed, but it's an option if you're close to the water & don't intend to use the trailer much, or tow at high speeds. If your ATM is more than 750kg then you need a braked trailer, which implies it needs to be 'safe' / 'roadworth' for rego & insurance compliance requirements, & of course if you are inspected by police, Transport etc on the road or in a public boat ramp area. ( they do snap inspections from time to time while you're out on the water).

As for the retreads, some would just say FIDO (f**k it drive on), but I'd check the tyre compliance rating for the trailer/load you intend to tow & determine if those retreads are rated for the use you intend. Runnng retreads is a bit like playing with a hand grenade - you're just never too sure when it likely to let go in a big way. Might be a manageable solution on a mulit-wheeled semi-trailer for the low budget operator but probably not something you need on a boat trailer for frequent, high speed use. A set of 2nd hand light truck tyres would be better if you can't afford new.

Time spent on the road side with a bung trailer isn't fun, obviously.

[tunaticer]

The axle should be fine if there is no serious pitting where the seals are on the hub and where the u-bolts hold the springs in place. If your trailer is needing brakes (excess of 750kg GVM) you will need to replace the hubs and probably calipers, if it is less than 750kg you can reuse those hubs and discard the brakes.
Every little bit of saved parts is more fuel for the boat or fishing gear in your tackle box.

My axle has had 3 sets of springs attached to it over a dozen years and I still run the original hubs.

Jack.

[ovakil]

Be a bit wary of secondhand tyres,as mine were approx 7 years old with lot's of tread when one blew on highway I was told by a mate who works at Beaurapairs that tyres only have a life of 5 years
I would relpace everything especially if you are keeping it for a while.
Cheers

[Maccas]

Dinga,

Those springs are stuffed and need replacing along with pins and bushes.They are an accident waiting to happen IMO.Same goes for the retreads if you do any towing on the highway or long distances. Just not worth the risk.
All the rest looks like you can fix with a bit of work on the rust with a powered wire brush. The axle will be ok as long as it is not pitted or damaged where the seals are correctly positioned on the axle.If it is and the seals can't seal properly then a new axle is needed. Also the where the bearings go on the axle the surface cannot be too damaged or pitted because it must fit tight on the axle, however, they often fit tight on a damaged axle as long as you wire brush any rust and then use emery paper to tidy things up. It doesn't take long and will save money as your hubs provide for brakes so will cost a bit if you need new. BTW you don't need to to get them like new just get most of the rust off then make the disk surface smooth enough so that the disk pad won't catch on it. When you have taken the calipers apart greased and reassembled them, put the brakes on very lightly and tow your trailer down the road. This will polish up the brake disk without all the hard work. One thing, the undercarriage that you have now is probably better than a cheap chinese replacement so if you decide to go new make sure you think about this as cheap is not always cheap in the long term.

Cheers,

Maccas

[PADDLES]

g'day dinga, i reckon macca's on the money here. i restored a redco tinka that looked in about the same condition. replaced springs/bushes/u-bolts with good local manufactured ones (not the krap imported ones). hit the axle/hubs with a cup brush on a little angle grinder and then painted it all (springs included) with blackjack body deadener/sealer to seal it all up. you hopefully won't need to replace everything, just the stuff that's badly pitted, you'll probably find that the wall thickness on that axle is quite substantial. only replace bearings if they're stuffed (pitted/rusty) otherwise clean and repack them. you should get out of it all quite cheaply but have to put in a bit of elbow grease so have fun. personally i have had some bad experiences with retreads and so hate them, but if you're only towing short distances then keep using them.

[newchum]

Hi dinga, just my thoughts but if you replace the springs and hubs get quality galv units. did it on the cheap once it didn't pay off . also not a fan of the blackjack if you chipor crack it the water get behind it and you dont know its rusting until its too late.

[oldboot]

It all depends on how much dirty work you want to do.

If you want it quick and clean, replace the lot and don't even look at the old stuff.

If you are a compulsive refurbisher like me, you wont know till you have it all appart.

Trailer parts are pretty damn cheap... really... particularly if you get them from the right place.

That place at beenleigh has a reasonable rep.

I like "All Trailer Spares" at salsbury ( no connection). their gear seems to be better qulaity that lots of stuff I see arround.... they have lots of goodies.
their couplings are australian made and it shows.
They also have parts for boat winches.

If you can get them with the right ratings, single leaf springs are the go.

Oh check out both "Wattyl Super Etch" undercoat and " Galmet Duragal" zink paint...... I have had very good resuts with both over a number of years.

don't forget the lanolin spray.

cheers

[shano]

springs, hub, u bolts, bearings! the axle will be fine as it will be solid

[Roughasguts]

I ain't never seen a hub as dry as that! there ain't no grease at all on the castle nut and cotter pin.

So the axle may be badly pitted you won't know until you get the hub off.

[Dinga04]

Thanks for all your reply's.
I recently purchased the boat/trailer. The trailer is 5 years old so I suspect it hasn't had a single bit of maintenance for that time. The grease nipple in the bearing buddy was snapped off, so I assume salt water has gone through the bearings.

From what everyone has said it looks like I should be able to keep just the axle.

I will be using the boat locally heaps, and maybe tow it 4-5 hours a couple of times a year. So I think I will ditch the 5 year old retreads... thanks ovakill and macas.

What are the differences between single leaf springs and multiple leaf? If they make 1500kg (pair) singles, then I assume they would be easier to maintain...but how do they compare for performance??

[Tazmaniac]

Dinga,
Your discs obviously are looking a bit sad (as well as a few other bits and pieces). While they are off, rather than buffing the rust off, I would put them into a brake place for a skim, or if you have a mate with a lathe better still. Any corrosion on the disc faces will tear away at the pads and reduce their life. And replace those retreads, they should be illegal on trailers.
Taz.

[Dean1]

Be a bit wary of secondhand tyres,as mine were approx 7 years old with lot's of tread when one blew on highway I was told by a mate who works at Beaurapairs that tyres only have a life of 5 years
I would relpace everything especially if you are keeping it for a while.
Cheers Interesting comment here about the tyres, my trailer was built in 1997. When I took one of the rim/tyres down to the tyre shop to fix a gammy valve 2 weeks ago he noticed the tyres were made in 97, the original ones!!. I didnt know! They almost look like new, he said Im mad running around with these tyres on as I could easily get a blowout. Dont go by looks of boat trailer tyres, look at the age and replace if more than 5 years old. Im in the process, just have to buy some new 13" ally rims. Cheers.

[Hornet Rider]

There's a code on tyres that will reveal their age, ie the month & year of manufacture, apparently, but I don't know the code/decode. Anyone know it?

[datamile]

All tyres are produced with a serial Tyre Identification Number (or serial TIN) that shows the date of manufacture of a tyre. The last three digits (for tyres made pre 2000) or four digits (for post 2000 tyres) of the serial TIN indicate the week and year that the tyre was made. For example,375 tyre made in the 37th week of 1995 and 1204 shows a tyre made in the 12th week of 2004. Also a tyre made in the 1990's can be distinguished from a tyre made in the 1980's due to a triangular indentation after the last number which is not present on 1980's tyres.