E-Tec's Are they all they're cracked up to be?

[Hornet Rider]

Don't want to start a range war on this thread, but I'm considering options for an upgrade to my 94 model Evinrude 50. It's done about 1010 loyal hours without a rebuild & without any serious component failures, but that's because it's always been serviced at about the 100 hour mark & it's been mothered, which is not to say it hasn't spent a lot of time at WOT, because it has. Correct proping has had a lot to do with it's longevity. My 15 ft tinny is rated to 70hp so I'm considering an E-Tec 60hp, pity they don't make a 70hp.

Are E-tec's as fuel efficient as Evinrude say, how much oil do they really use, & are they really 3 year service free?

Bit of history if found below.....

The two-stroke lives! : Evinrude's E - TEC engines have done the seemingly impossible; saving the air-cooled two-stroke from oblivion

Automotive Design & Production, June 2003 by Christopher A. Sawyer

About 10 years ago, Chrysler's Joe Goulart was singing the praises of the two-stroke engine as an automotive powerplant. His dream, however, couldn't pass muster with the EPA. As a result, the automotive two-stroke engine died. Environmental concerns dogged the recreational two-stroke, as well. After years of doing nothing, the EPA set strict pollution limits for recreational vehicles (personal water craft, snowmobiles, etc.), which called into question the two-stroke's continued viability. Fortunately, no one told George Broughton, director of Engineering, Boats and Outboard Engines Div. for Bombardier Recreational Products (Sturtevant, WI). He and his team created the Evinrude E-TEC family of two-strokes; engines that are clean and darn-near worry.
Fuel Injection That Sings
"The trick was to make an engine that would idle at 500 rpm and make 1 hp, and run 6,000 rpm and make 250 hp while meeting the emission standards," says Broughton. Part of the solution involved using a Lorentz coil. Better known as the voice coil that drives loudspeakers, a Lorentz coil is made up of a permanent magnet and coil winding, and produces a force proportional to the current applied to the coil. Which makes it perfect for devices requiring high acceleration, high frequency application, and a flat force vs. displacement output. Another big advantage is that it can push or pull, so it can be reset between injection events very quickly.
"The strength and duration of the injection pulse determine fuel droplet size," says Broughton, "which varies to meet the unique needs of an air-cooled two-stroke." At low engine speeds, small droplets offer the greatest atomization, and the most homogenous mixture. This is sprayed over the spark plug, and ignited as a stratified charge. At high speed, larger droplets are used to cool the top of the piston. (Cooling also is helped by use of a NASA-developed alloy three times stronger than conventional alloys at temperature. Broughton's team found it while searching the Internet.)
A swirl-nozzle fuel injector with 0.046-in, tangential slots is another key to clean combustion. "It's made through metal injection molding," says Broughton, "and starts as a piece about three or four times bigger than the final product. Then it's shrunk to size in an oven like a new pair of blue jeans in the dryer." The fuel rail is pressurized to 30 psi, and the Lorentz coil amplifies this to 600 psi (1,000 psi is possible, but as yet unnecessary) under wide-open throttle conditions.
No Battery, Plenty of Spark
The E-TEC's electrical system is based around a magneto -- like a Model T -- for a simple reason: recreational vehicles are put into storage at the end of each season, then pulled out when the weather turns favorable. Batteries die in storage, so relying on one to drive the fuel injection system and engine controller only adds to customer frustration. "The magneto produces from 150 to 300 volts," says Broughton, "but that is reduced to 55 volts to drive the oil and fuel pumps and the fuel injectors. It's further reduced to 14.7 volts to charge the battery, if the boat has one.
Evinrude promises an E-TEC engine will start within one revolution, something most two-stroke owners will find hard to believe, especially for an engine that's been in storage. The key is the sealed injection system. Though the fuel in the gas tank may oxidize over time, no air can enter the fuel system itself. The gas stays fresh. As the flywheel starts to turn, the magneto sends current to the engine controller, which determines where the piston is, when to inject the fuel and fire the spark plug -- all inside of one revolution. At the end of three year's use, and except for greasing the lower drive unit because of its constant immersion in water, Broughton insists the only item that may need service is the spark plug. "The E-TEC is designed to go three years without any dealer interaction," he says.
Oil and Catalysts
But what if the regulations get tighter, won't two-strokes be at a disadvantage because of their propensity to burn oil? "Oil isn't a big player," says Broughton, "because the amount burned is about 1% of the total intake charge, and it never mixes with the gasoline." (The average user of a 50-hp E-TEC will go through two quarts of oil per year.) Hydrocarbons are the predominant pollutant, a portion of which are scavenged and burned in the next combustion cycle. When emission standards tighten, Broughton will be ready with a simple reduction catalyst he terms, "1970's technology." Right now, the engine is clean enough to pass California's 2008 standards.
Broughton doesn't claim E-TEC technology might have saved the automotive two-stroke, but he does suggest Detroit's obsession with preventing the lubricating oil from being burned during combustion sent them down the wrong path. "Their concentration on retaining an oil sump, oil scraper rings, and relying on plain bearings instead of roller bearings," he theorizes, "increased the amount of oil burned, which harmed emissions performance." And it may be another reason why automotive two-stroke emission performance degraded over time. "The E-Tec actually gets cleaner as it progresses through the EPA test," he says. "And we never have to worry about the potential for secondary pollution when changing the oil." Maybe not, but try selling that to the EPA when discussing emission tradeoffs.
COPYRIGHT 2003 Gardner Publications, Inc.
COPYRIGHT 2008 Gale, Cengage Learning

[Chimo]

HR

Why not talk to your service guy about your proposed change over.

I have a couple of 115s and was told that mine should be good for 3000hrs and the new ones have a di fuel system but are not really that much different to the current 115s. Maybe your too are similar.

If your boat, looks like an Express? Is it it? (Great boats by the way) had that motor from new its got to be late 80s to mid 90s vintage so you dont seem to do a lot of hrs anyway so with what you will get for the old one vs the cost of the new is it really worth changing just for 10HP and a pretty high change over cost?

Sorry to be a wet blanket but .................

Cheers
Chimo

[marco]

Are E-tec's as fuel efficient as Evinrude say, how much oil do they really use, & are they really 3 year service free?



fuel, yes they are very good . i should add that is the small block engine is good , big block can be thristy.
oil, when ecu is set to xd 100 you get 100:1 at wot and then oil consumption reduced as you lower the rpm to a point where you may get 300:1 .

see another thread http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/showthread.php?t=110740

servicing, a hot topic but the answer is yes 3 years . at the boat show last year i bailed up the etec rep about all this and told him my local dealer wants to service annually , reply was that dealers have been doing that to create revenue for themselves and that there is no need for it when used for recreational boating . he recommended occasionally pulling the prop off to check for line around the shaft and to grease the shaft . thats it .

[Jabba_]

Fuel use in the E-tec 60 will be near half off what your using now with your 50hp Evinrude... Oil will be about 1/4 off what your currantly using, but it is more expensive per litre.... If you buy it in bulk (19ltr drum) it will cost you $250. But that will last your 60hp near 300hr......... A 3 year/300hr service will set you back between $300-500,,, including parts...

Overall, there a very nice motor, with plenty off poke.....

[ozbee]

hornet rider iam buying a new 50 for my small boat at present i have the old Johnson down tuned 70 block a pretty hard old motor to destroy in its lifetime.i own a 250 etec and would i swap it for a yamaha or honda or suzki no absolutely .

but a 50 hp etec no no no.why because each manfacturer will use there design block for more than one HP this means certain hp motors are not designed for opituim performance.

50 etec is only a two cylinder motor and is the most horse power that they can get out of that size block. this is great if you have a tinny that is very light with hardly anyone in it. a better all round would be a 3 or 4 cyc engine which gives you far more lift than a two cylinder.

honda has just realised a fuel injected 50 hp as well as light fourstroke which i am buying as i will only be going out with one passanger . it is not at the high end of cc to other 50 hp so will be very efficent on fuel . down size would be weight but is 3 cycl so should lift it just slower.

for a allrounder for fishing sking etc 3 to 4 ocupants the yamaha 4cyc four stroke would win hands down as i would at a glance is probably the most sold outboard in austraila ( 60 hp)

the zuk and the merc maybe fine to i havent looked at there block config but just remember some use the same block across brands.

hope this helps all brands make pretty good motors just finding the diamonds amongst is the clue.

[Seahorse]

i dont believe it.
someone has asked a genuine question about e-tecs and had very sensible answers, with no smart ar... popcorn comments.
ozbee.
that was good info, interesting.
hornet, u should be happy with that response.


cheers
greg

[Jabba_]

Yep, miracles do happen....

[Shanoss]

i dont believe it.
someone has asked a genuine question about e-tecs and had very sensible answers, with no smart ar... popcorn comments.
ozbee.
that was good info, interesting.
hornet, u should be happy with that response.


cheers
greg

Well, no smart arse comments, yet............

[Reel Blue]

Tuned for XD100, WOT in the 175 etec will see oil usage at 60:1. At cruise and 4000rpm it will use oil at 85:1.

[Jabba_]

Are E-tec's as fuel efficient as Evinrude say, how much oil do they really use, & are they really 3 year service free?



To make it crystal clear regarding the 3 year servicing deal... The answer is a little technical, but is easy to understand providing your not a Peanut brain...

The answer is Yes, and regardless if it is Salt or fresh water use, the dealer service schedule is 3years or 300hrs, which ever comes first and that remains the same for its life.... Now it has been mentioned by Non-E-tec owners that only the first service is at 300hr/3y and then after that it requires an 100h/1y service annually.... That is not true.... It is clearly stated it is 3y/300h intervals.... However, it is your choice, you can if you like, get your motor serviced every 100h/1y if you want to...


Here's the tricky part (for some)... Even tho your E-tec may have 3 year dealer service intervals, whether it is ran in salt water or fresh water,,, you are require you to do you home maintenance... which is very simple....

Home maintenance includes...

Remove the prop, check for fishing line and grease shaft and check the prop shaft seal.... If there is a leak take it to your dealer to have it repaired....

Grease the steering joints... I do this every 4 or 5 months. Takes about 3 minutes to do..

Check your gear oil..... That is to insure that you don't run it dry... Again if it is losing oil, have it checked by your dealer.....


Now in saying that... The home maintenance above is generally conducted by not only E-tec owners but by anyone who cares for there motor regardless which brand of engine type...

[Wear the fox hat]

Hornet Rider,
Looking at your boat in the avatar, weight of the motor should be your main consideration. This was the deciding factor when I repowered my 5.2m centre console with a 90 E-Tec. I looked at 90hp in 4 stroke motors & they were way too heavy. Even an extra 10kg at the back can make a big difference & upset the dynamics of your boat when you are under way.
Look at the 4 stroke & 2 stroke motor weights in your horse power range & go from there. Both types today are very good motors.

WTFH

[Hornet Rider]

Chimo, sage advice & I hear what your saying. Had a long discussion with my bloke & he said if I keep looking after the 50 rude in the same way, I could get up 3000 hrs out of it. We did the maths on change over & given that I only get on the water once a month, at best, it would be more economical to keep on using my existing motor, & in the worst case maybe have it rebuilt when it really needs it. Alternatively, he suggested if I really think I need a bit more grunt then I should find a 70hp older Rude, & do it up. And you have a good eye for detail, it's a David Payne 15' Express Cavalier. He designed an amazing boat in the Express range. Only 8 degrees deadrise but the high forefoot & stability fins on the aft strakes keeps her true in head or following seas. Had her in 2.5m swell with 20-25kts gusting, 37lts fuel (half a tank), myself & 2 bigger blokes, 150ltr eskey half full & all the fishing gear. Wet as shags with spray but comfortable knowing the Express could handle those conditions.

marco, Jabba, Reel Blue, thanks for the info on fuel efficiency, oil type & consumption & the finer points on the 3 year servicing, much appreciated

ozbee, very interesting stuff & thank you for sharing it. Wouldn't have know otherwise.

WTFH, very valid point. Max transom weight is 120kg although anything less is better. Did the maths on the possible 4st contenders - Mariner/Mercury 60hp EFI 112kg, Big Foot 60hp 120kg, Zuk 70hp 162kg, Yam 60hp F60CETL 110kg, FT60DETL 115kg, Honda 50hp 93kg, Tohatsu 70hp TLDI 141 kg. Didn't think I would get value for money, so discarded the 4 st idea. The Yam 70BETOL 2st at 105.5 kg with 51.5kw & 3 cylinders was probably the better option, next to the Tohatsu 70hp at 115 kg.

Appreciate all of your input. I think I'll stick with the my old 50 rude for the time, & keep an eye out for a reasonable older 70 rude. At least until I finally decide to get lazy & spend some of my supa on a good glass mistress.

Seahorse, Shanoss, thanks for riding shotgun on the E-Tec bandits lol

[Lancair]

Ozbee, I dont know where you get your info from but ? I am struggling to make sesne of what you're saying. Maybe its they way its written or ? Etec do use the same block for the 40 , 50 and 60hp, its also one half the size of the V4 block. Same size pistons and all, surely thats gotta be good for a lower HP motor.
I always thought bigger displacement motors didnt have to work/rev as hard to achieve a given horsepower when compared to a smaller displacement motor. More cylinders does make for a smoother running motor but that's subjective too. 2 Stroke motors make power on every stroke, so a two cyl 2 stroke is producing power every 180 degrees on the crankshaft, a 4 stroke needs four cylinders to achieve the same. Needs LOADS more moving parts and more servicing too.

I have an Etec40 running an Evinrude SST 13 3/8 X 17 prop. Propping for the load and type of boat is critical. (I have a 13 7/8 X 15 Evinrude Viper prop as well which I use for heavier loads or towing a tube or my bro skurfing. Hole shot is better but top end suffers about 6kts.) Its now done 111hrs, used the oil that came with the motor and ONE 3.7L bottle of Evinrude XD100. I just bought a 2nd bottle last week. It uses about 9L/hr @ 24kts pushing a 4.2m Stessco catcher, will push it up to 31kts solo. I have had all the main gearbox, water pump etc bolts removed, regreased and replaced as well as gear box oil checked and grease nipples attended to, at just over 12 months old to give me some piece of mind that it will all come apart again. Ive heard stories of bolts seizing due to poor washing as well as being in for 3yrs without being touched. I will buy another bigger Etec when I get a bigger boat.

Hornet, your decision is sound. Why spend a heap to maybe save a little on fuel. I only bought my Etec because I didnt have a boat and wanted to buy new and environmentally friendly.


Andrew

[ozbee]

lancair the quality of a etec is not in question you just have to be careful in the 5o hp range as you can buy a small block nee etec or a larger block like yamaha 6o downtuned. sorry to say but engineering rules will prove that a 3 cyc will pull greater than a two cyc remember when evinrdue dropped ther 3 cyc 50 back to a two people found the two lacked the grunt not the top end to get up and go .

you have proven this in your own words when you say propping is critical a sure sign of a tight power curve but in the right boat probably tiller steer ally it would be fine but you must remember that around 50 hp small fibreglass hulls come in to play .

at around 75 to 90 hp the 3 cyc engine tends to fail in economy and yes a 3cyc will run rougher than a four and is at this stage most people will look four a four cyc be it four or two stroke. remember the old 70 hp jonson /evinrude practically in destructible but a bit of a fuel burner but would lift all those small fibreglass boats in fact you could pull a broken down 18 footer and get up on the plane thats torque.

yamaha skipped the battle and went to a four cyc straight up downside was weight up side was a lot of ally boats were rigging up with plwood floors kill tanks etc they have won the battle in this size at present . question asked is why i didn't go for a yamaha my answer is yes my bluefin has a wooden floor but not much else it will now only be used in shallow creeks doing a lot of trolling for barra so a smaller cc will suffice a toss between a etec or a light 3 cyc four stroke but must be efi so im going for the new Honda. if my boat was a little bit bigger i would go for the 75 etec nee a down tuned 90 in disguise. like i said you have to look for the diamonds amongst them and what your engine / hull requirements are

[Matheson]

Tuned for XD100, WOT in the 175 etec will see oil usage at 60:1. At cruise and 4000rpm it will use oil at 85:1.
These motors are computer set to burn more oil during the first 10 hours but after that I was told oil use could go to nearly 300:1 when idling. I hope they are as good as is being quoted. After looking around and asking endless questions and readin every outboard review I could find, I have decided to retire my 1998 150HP Johno and replace it with a 175HP Etec on the back of my Outsider 650. Deciding factors are weight and better hole shot. The Etecs are a quicker revving more torquey motor than the current 4 strokes and quite a bit lighter. They are also as fuel efficient.

Matho

[ozbee]

matherson i hope your new 175 etec gives you as much joy as my 250 has.must admit these etec sure have grunt i can get the same litre per n mile at 32 knts as 20 knts punching into a sea or flat . the only down side is even if set at 100 to 1 xd i am using close to the old 50 to 1 mix which it was set on from factory. once you go over 4000 rpm it runs pretty close 50 to1.trouble is i tends to cruise at 4200. the newer motors like the 300 run at a richer mixture im told so the answer may be revert back to xd 50and run at 50 to 1. ifeel uncomfortable doing this so i may just leave it as is. i just find it at $ 70 dollars a trip in oil to the reef(230 litres) in NQ leaves a bit of a sour taste. other wise in the 120 hrs ive racked up in the last 7 months has been a pure pleasure. turn the key and they go i havent even squeezed the fuel bulb yet.

[disorderly]

Ozbee have a talk to your dealer about those ratio's....50-1 sounds like you are using a lot more oil than you need to .

Scott

[sea raider]

matherson i hope your new 175 etec gives you as much joy as my 250 has.must admit these etec sure have grunt i can get the same litre per n mile at 32 knts as 20 knts punching into a sea or flat . the only down side is even if set at 100 to 1 xd i am using close to the old 50 to 1 mix which it was set on from factory. once you go over 4000 rpm it runs pretty close 50 to1.trouble is i tends to cruise at 4200. the newer motors like the 300 run at a richer mixture im told so the answer may be revert back to xd 50and run at 50 to 1. ifeel uncomfortable doing this so i may just leave it as is. i just find it at $ 70 dollars a trip in oil to the reef(230 litres) in NQ leaves a bit of a sour taste. other wise in the 120 hrs ive racked up in the last 7 months has been a pure pleasure. turn the key and they go i havent even squeezed the fuel bulb yet.

Ozbee,

Watch that you dont get called a "zelot"

[Jabba_]

These motors are computer set to burn more oil during the first 10 hours but after that I was told oil use could go to nearly 300:1 when idling. I hope they are as good as is being quoted. After looking around and asking endless questions and readin every outboard review I could find, I have decided to retire my 1998 150HP Johno and replace it with a 175HP Etec on the back of my Outsider 650. Deciding factors are weight and better hole shot. The Etecs are a quicker revving more torquey motor than the current 4 strokes and quite a bit lighter. They are also as fuel efficient.

Matho
Do yourself a favor, and go the 200 HO big block. It wont work as hard and have loads more torque then the 2.5ltr 175..... You'll be able to cruise at the same speed with lower revs, which means less fuel and less oil...... make sure you get your ratio set to XD-100...

[cormorant]

Just be aware the weights some brochures quote aren't real. Allow extra for prop weight and fluids on the 4 strokes particularly is what I have found. Make sur motor is fitted with correct prop and a stainless one.

Throw an extra 10 or 21kg on the back and just see how the boat handles.

C

[TheRealAndy]

From all the research i did, which was lots, there is no real difference. When you do the oil V service V weight V fuel economy V ... they all come out roughly the same. The on big difference I found was the cost, and the ETEC was the worst. I think they only win on emissions, which is good if you live in california.

[Jabba_]

I just returned from a fishless>:( trip (150klm return) from Southport to Flat rock @ North straddie and detoured to a few reefs on the way back home...

I use 116lts and .9lt off XD100....

[Lancair]

From all the research i did, which was lots, there is no real difference. When you do the oil V service V weight V fuel economy V ... they all come out roughly the same. The on big difference I found was the cost, and the ETEC was the worst. I think they only win on emissions, which is good if you live in california.


Ive done 111 hrs on my Etec40, used $75 worth of oil and spent $77 on not req'd minor servicing.
From the research I did, had I bought a Yamaha 4 Stroke 40, Id have been out of pocket over $500 for servicing by now.

It may be that we researched different sized motors ?

Sure a larger Etec will use more oil, but doesnt a larger 4 stroke have more cyclinders, plugs, etc, takes longer to service therefore cost more to service than a smaller 4 stroke ?

Andrew

[FNQCairns]

I just returned from a fishless>:( trip (150klm return) from Southport to Flat rock @ North straddie and detoured to a few reefs on the way back home...

I use 116lts and .9lt off XD100....

I believe that, were the conditions good and you were hooting along?

cheers fnq

[Dean1]

Just something I was told as i was ordering my new 60 yammie 4 strokes yest was that with the whole 'dont have to sevice an etec for 3 years' bit with an etec, its not healthy to not drop your leg off your motor for 3 years as in corroding bolts etc. Things happen in 3 years if the motors exposed to saltwater alot. Got me thinking. Deano.

[TheRealAndy]

Ive done 111 hrs on my Etec40, used $75 worth of oil and spent $77 on not req'd minor servicing.
From the research I did, had I bought a Yamaha 4 Stroke 40, Id have been out of pocket over $500 for servicing by now.

It may be that we researched different sized motors ?

Sure a larger Etec will use more oil, but doesnt a larger 4 stroke have more cyclinders, plugs, etc, takes longer to service therefore cost more to service than a smaller 4 stroke ?

Andrew

But how much more does the initial purchase set you back?

Dont get me wrong, I am not saying they are a bad thing, just saying to do the research because there are plenty of myths out there about etecs, both for and against.

[Jabba_]

I believe that, were the conditions good and you were hooting along?

cheers fnq
The swell was 3ft from the NE, and a chop from the SE,,,, Not big, but a little uncomfortable... A mixed bag really throw into the deal my old prop,, and mileage was down heaps... Cruising at 3200-3500rpm.... speed was ranging from 25mph- 30mph.... Wth my better prop (Viper II, which is now stuffed thanks to the prop repairer) I use to get a higher MPH for those given rpm's....

here's pic off the conditions....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y159/jabba1/13072008001.jpg

[FNQCairns]

Thanks jabba, Looks Ok, suspect that would be near a 40km/h cruise in my pressed tinny picking my way through and 35 km/h point and shoot with a bit of throttle work.

You have a nice hull and nice speed to suit. chalk and cheeze:-[


cheers fnq

[Jabba_]

Thanks jabba, Looks Ok, suspect that would be near a 40km/h cruise in my pressed tinny picking my way through and 35 km/h point and shoot with a bit of throttle work.

You have a nice hull and nice speed to suit. chalk and cheese:-[


cheers fnq

Yeah the hull works nicely, it slices the chop all to easy... But the problem I had to day was with my prop (my old dented Raker)... To keep the 250 E-tec economical and light on oil you want to keep it below 4000rpm.. I don't like to go over 3500rpm.. At those revs (3500) I am usually doing 35mph... But with my old Rake, it maxed at 30mph and that was running with the swell....

With that raker it didn't really hold the speed well in these conditions, it would drop 5-7mph, but still hold the same rev's.. The Viper II never behaved like that... It was very annoying... It also blew out and cavited quiet a few times.... I can't wait to get a new prop, but that has to wait a little while... I am thinking either a 21" Cyclone or 22 Rebel,, or go with Solas.....

[finding_time]

Ozbee,

Watch that you dont get called a "zelot"

Not from me he wont!!;) Ozbee's figures match very closely to a number of others i know running big block e-tec's! He has in no way enhanced his figure's and has given a accurate report as far a i can tell, there has been no blatant exagerating of his milages/ oil consumption. Only a Zealot would do that;) And there are E-tec zealots around!;D

Ian

Ps. If he started posting pictures of every differant E-TEC on the market on public forums i might change my mind though!;) I mean you would have to be a ZEALOT to waste time doing that wouldn't you?;D

[Lancair]

But how much more does the initial purchase set you back?

Dont get me wrong, I am not saying they are a bad thing, just saying to do the research because there are plenty of myths out there about etecs, both for and against.

I was offered a 12 month old Yamaha 4 stroke 40, for what I paid for my new Etec 40.

The minor maintenance was having the lower leg bolts, gear box and water pump bolts removed, regreased and replaced along with greasing the grease nipples at just over 12 months use. My motor is washed and flushed throughly, and a spray of Inox under the cowl etc after every trip. Only a fool would go 3 yrs without touching it.

Andrew

[TheRealAndy]

I was offered a 12 month old Yamaha 4 stroke 40, for what I paid for my new Etec 40.

The minor maintenance was having the lower leg bolts, gear box and water pump bolts removed, regreased and replaced along with greasing the grease nipples at just over 12 months use. My motor is washed and flushed throughly, and a spray of Inox under the cowl etc after every trip. Only a fool would go 3 yrs without touching it.

Andrew

I was tempted with the etec based mainly on the 3 year service interval. Surely if it were not safe to go 3 years then evinrude would not say otherwise? Its only going to hurt there reputaion, or are they banking on the fact that most people will choose a lesser service interval? Etec has 3 year warantee, what happens if you take it in for a service 3 years after purchase and find out there is problems?

[Jabba_]

I was offered a 12 month old Yamaha 4 stroke 40, for what I paid for my new Etec 40.

The minor maintenance was having the lower leg bolts, gear box and water pump bolts removed, regression and replaced along with greasing the grease nipples at just over 12 months use. My motor is washed and flushed thoroughly, and a spray of Inox under the cowl etc after every trip. Only a fool would go 3 yrs without touching it.

Andrew
Very true.. But as it has been mentioned, during the 3 year service, the motor still needs to be cared for, or you can expect to get problems.... I check and to a quickie on my motor each time I take it out. Basically, Inox and corrosion spray on all external bolts, and around the power-head, check for line around prop shaft, pour hot water around the inside off the lower cowl to remove salt, give the outside a thorougher clean, Occasionally pump some grease into the grease nipples....

We have expensive motors on the back off our boats, and we would have to be nuts to neglect them... I actual enjoy maintaining my outboard, I find it relaxing pampering something that brings me such great enjoyment (Fishing & boating)

[BUCA T]

mate my 07' 50 e-tec blew up this morning, was excellent on fuel but that is all forgoten when you get a hole in your piston with about 50 hours on the motor. i have had other minor dramas with it i hav had it back 2 the shop 5 times in 12 months. i am currently pricing 60hp four strokes for my boat. one of the dealers said they would not even trade my e-tec, you little ripper ( not).


im spewin real hard

buca t

[Chimo]

Hey BUCA T

Wouldn't that issue be a warranty job?

I would have thought you would get all that fixed for nix.

If not why not?

Cheers
Chimo

[FNQCairns]

Yeah the hull works nicely, it slices the chop all to easy... But the problem I had to day was with my prop (my old dented Raker)... To keep the 250 E-tec economical and light on oil you want to keep it below 4000rpm.. I don't like to go over 3500rpm.. At those revs (3500) I am usually doing 35mph... But with my old Rake, it maxed at 30mph and that was running with the swell....

With that raker it didn't really hold the speed well in these conditions, it would drop 5-7mph, but still hold the same rev's.. The Viper II never behaved like that... It was very annoying... It also blew out and cavited quiet a few times.... I can't wait to get a new prop, but that has to wait a little while... I am thinking either a 21" Cyclone or 22 Rebel,, or go with Solas.....

Jabba sounds like a bit of a mess! are you saying your wot for the day was around 3500rpm with the dinted raker? What diameter and pitch was the Cyclone? why not another Cyclone the same again?

You may be able to save the Cyclone as at lest workable with a few basic backyard mods..dunno.

cheers fnq

[Noelm]

hey buca, I will take that "old" etec off your hands!

[ozscott]

I dont know the story with this motor obviously but I would have thought (just speculating) that there is always a risk with any modern computer controlled injected outboard that they can run too lean (ie computer can lean them out too much be it 2 or 4 stroke) and burn a piston...whereas the old smokers are manually set at the carbs and cannot lean out by themselves.

Cheers

[Jabba_]

Jabba sounds like a bit of a mess! are you saying your wot for the day was around 3500rpm with the dinted raker? What diameter and pitch was the Cyclone? why not another Cyclone the same again?

You may be able to save the Cyclone as at lest workable with a few basic backyard mods..dunno.

cheers fnq

No, WOT with the Raker(22"x 14.5") is 5600 @ 56mph.. But it is quiet old and has been bumped and repaired a few times... Mid range cruise is where it is not as good as the Viper II (21 x 14.5).. The old Raker is about 3mph slower at 3000-4000rpm then the Viper II, and it wont hold it speed as well as the viper did also,, it would loose momentum quiet easy, so to speak... Where the Viper would keep the boat at a constant speed regardless off conditions...

But since sent it in to have the smallest chip repaired, it has never the same... I took it back and they told me that they recupped and sized the blades, and this is what stuffed it.... They have had the prop back 3 times to get it back to where it was, but it is still not as good...... My Viper is still a good prop and now works best at 4000rpm @ 44mph... But at my preferred ocean cruise speed the Viper would easily do 3000rpm @ 30mph (3500rpm @ 35mph (3500rpm@35mph), pending conditions) it just wont do it as easily as it use to... Now since the repair it is down about 5mph @ 3000rpm...

Hence I want new prop to get back that efficiency, and if I can I would like to improve it a bit more, that''s why I was thinking a 4 blade Cyclone or the 3 blade Rebel, which has a large large blade area....

[FNQCairns]

No, WOT with the Raker(22"x 14.5") is 5600 @ 56mph.. But it is quiet old and has been bumped and repaired a few times... Mid range cruise is where it is not as good as the Viper II (21 x 14.5).. The old Raker is about 3mph slower at 3000-4000rpm then the Viper II, and it wont hold it speed as well as the viper did also,, it would loose momentum quiet easy, so to speak... Where the Viper would keep the boat at a constant speed regardless off conditions...

But since sent it in to have the smallest chip repaired, it has never the same... I took it back and they told me that they recupped and sized the blades, and this is what stuffed it.... They have had the prop back 3 times to get it back to where it was, but it is still not as good...... My Viper is still a good prop and now works best at 4000rpm @ 44mph... But at my preferred ocean cruise speed the Viper would easily do 3000rpm @ 30mph (3500rpm @ 35mph, pending conditions) it just wont do it as easily as it use to... Now since the repair it is down about 5mph @ 3000rpm...

Hence I want new prop to get back that efficiency, and if I can I would like to improve it a bit more, that''s why I was thinking a 4 blade Cyclone or the 3 blade Rebel, which has a large large blade area....

I confused the viper with the cyclone but you got that... thanks:)

General rule of thumb for a happy boat is large engine for boat size and wieight = less diameter with more pitch, small engine for boat sizeand weight = more diameter and less pitch.

Does sound like the Viper has had it, the place to tell is low in the cruising speed range's, will make an ok spare I suppose, shame they chose to value add the final cost...I suspect?

Physics not opinion says 4 blades are less efficient than 3, 3 than 2 etc, that's not to say a person cannot find a 4 blade that works better than their badly setup 3 blade - happens all the time, actually every time one is happiest with their 4 blade.

If you do choose 4 blade chase up the no cup line, you will get a little efficiency back as a result.

Still a shame you had to deal with this! For the true cost to them to replace the prop, they should have done it already!!! and on sold yours s/h to some poor bloke to recoup their total cost.

cheers fnq

[cormorant]

mate my 07' 50 e-tec blew up this morning, was excellent on fuel but that is all forgoten when you get a hole in your piston with about 50 hours on the motor. i have had other minor dramas with it i hav had it back 2 the shop 5 times in 12 months. i am currently pricing 60hp four strokes for my boat. one of the dealers said they would not even trade my e-tec, you little ripper ( not).


im spewin real hard

buca t


That has got to be a warranty job??

What was the underlying cause and what have your issues been?. Is it a motor that spends all day flat out or trolling all day?
s
We all hear the etec bashing but not often do we hear of a actual motor dying.
Do you know if it was to lean- cookes piston? Old Fuel - cooked piston? Too rich - carbon build up - melt piston ? Oil problem? , ECU screwed? Injector lean? Cooling system not working? That is about all the reasons bar manufacturing fault in piston I can think of and most leave evidence in the block so you can diagnose what went wrong if not get it early with lower compression reading.

Just really interested to hear what happened and whether Evinrude and your dealer are sorting it out? Sorry for all the questions but it is pretty uncommon for any brand of motor to survive to 50 hours and then crap itself unless there is a cause

Cheers

C

[BUCA T]

Hey guys the other minor problems with the e-etec didnt lead to the hole in the piston ( was probs with fuses, tilt, cowl seal ect.) it is being covered by warranty. the engine spent about 3\4 of its life at wot, the dealer and manafacturer tell you to drive e-tecs like you stole them so i dont think my driving was the cause. im thinkin bout gettin a yammy or merc 4 banger once its fixed


buca t