trailer bearings- HELP

[jeffo]

Righto, i decided to have a go at doing my trailer bearings myself. I went through old threads on here and found some good help and that website that had videos along with in depth instructions on how to replace and pack the bearings.

All went well and was going just as it should have been, bearnings all packed and everything fitted back in real nice. When i put the main nut back on at the end of it all i got it to finger tight as i was instructed to do, then tightened it to the next available slot for the split pin to go through with a spanner. The wheel felt like it was a bit stiff to turn but after taking the split pin back out and loostening it back to the next slot the big nut was a bit loose and could be moved in either direction with bare hands so i figured my first slot was the correct one and left it at that.

After completion of the entire job i took the trailer for a test drive for about 15km's and them when i checked the temp of the dust covers i found that the one suspect wheel was quite warm while the other was warm but not as bad.

Is it ok to have the main outside nut a touch loose or is it better to have the heat? Has any one ever required shimms of somesort to get it right? or is there something i may have done wrong?

Some advise would be great as im going to 1770 this weekend and was planning on taking the boat- but if the trailer is suss ill have to leave it at home.

Cheers.

[Getout]

You should always tighten the castellated-nut up firm and then back it off until you get a very slight amount of end-float (play). If too tight on the nut, the bearing can overheat. Its all about the tension in the bearing, not whether you can turn the nut by hand or not.

[lippa]

is the cone seated all the way into the hub? may pay to check that as well.
a little wobbly is fine, and are you using a washer in between the nut and bearing.

[trueblue]

always looser rather than tighter.

You must be able to feel a little bit of free play in the bearing.

wheel should spin freely without any drag.

cheers

Mick

[jeffo]

thanks for the quick help guys. I am using the washer and as i said everything went back in as i invisaged it would. There is no play in the hub with the nut slightly loose.

Lippa, by cone do you mean the races? They were already in the new hub when i bought it but yes i gave them a bit more of a tap to ensure they were on place.

[Chimo]

I was taught to tighten the nut firm but not as if theres no tomorrow and then back it off 1/4 of a turn and however much more is needed to get the split pin thru the caselation and hole in the stub axle. Seems to be fine that way runs cool with never a problem; holding onto wood at this point, just in case.

Cheers
Chimo

[lippa]

running warm is fine jeffo, hot is not!
sometimes finger tight is all thats needed.
on trips to 1770, i stop at torbanlea to check the trailer. check the temps, and jack her up to feel for excessive play.

i recently bought a hub that had a race/cone already pressed into it.
i bashed it out and replaced it with a jap bearing kit

[jeffo]

i have backed them both back to the next hole guys, the nut is loose on that hole. i will do a bit more driving around with the trailer before i head away to see what happens.

[trueblue]

Drive it around a little looser for a while, then check it again. After a bit of time, it may tighten to the next slot in the castelated nut without getting too hot.

Like Lippa said, warm is ok, hot is not ok.

What sort of grease did you use?

Cheers

Mick

[UNCLE NUGGY]

if it feels a bit stiff then its to tight,they must turn freely,a small amount of play is just fine.the set ive got at the moment are finger tight,if i goto the next ntch its to tight, where as other sets ive fitted the nut has just ended up needing a tiny nip up with a spanner.as lippa says warm is okay(but i wouldnt expect them to get warm after 15klms)..hot is bad
cheers
UN

[trueblue]

you can also buy another washer to sit behind the nut. a different washer may be a different thickness, and as you initially mentioned shims, you'll know what I mean...

[disorderly]

Last week,I just had my local guy do the bearings on my 4.3 tinny trailer...
They were absolutely shot ...probably not done for many years.
Hard to remove and the poor guy was sweating like a pig during the job...
The more I watched, the more I was glad it was him doing it and not me.
Once he had one lot out he asked me to run up to the auto parts place and buy the bearings..
Came back with the bearings and he fitted them and started on the other side....it, thankfully was a bit easier.
When he was doing up the nut he would tighten it firm and then give the wheel a couple of spins and then back off the nut and re-tighten and give a few more spins...he did this 3 or 4 times....he said this would help to seat the bearings and suggested after a couple of runs just to check them...
His advise was freespinning but no play or wobbles.

Total labour cost ....a whopping $39.50...

I'll be taking my other boat in to get them done as soon as I get a chance...It hasn't been done for at least 5 years that I know of....

Scott

[backlash08]

wheel bearings are best at zero preload, zero endfloat but better slightly loose then tight, but not too loose, if the trailer has brakes also make sure that the brakes arnt affecting the 'feel' on preload or endfloat
cheers
Craig

[trueblue]

wheel bearings are best at zero preload, zero endfloat but better slightly loose then tight, but not too loose, if the trailer has brakes also make sure that the brakes arnt affecting the 'feel' on preload or endfloat
cheers
Craig

few people can feel zero preload and zero end float unless quite experienced, and the slots in the castelated nuts rarely if ever line up with that condition.

so, if it is to be wrong one way or the other, slight end float is better than being preloaded and too tight.

a loose bearing will run for a very long time as long as it has plenty of grease. A tight bearing will cook off the grease very quickly and self destruct itself...

cheers

Mick

[Dignity]

jeffo, you may not really have a problem. I did the same once and found that I hadn't really pressed the grease into the bearings - dab of grease in the hand and scoop the edge of the bearing and rotating it. Ran it for a bit longer and found that it went cold once some of the grease in the cavity started to circulate. Not saying this is your case but if everything else has been done correctly this could be so.

[jeffo]

thanks all for your posts.

Dignity- i packed the grease as per the video i found on line and feel i got it through the whole bearing (although i may be wrong).

Mick- i used nautilus grease.

Disorderly- was it a mate that did it for 40 bucks for you? if i could find someone here that would do the job for that id get them to do it every time. Although i am glad to have done it myself once to know i could do it on the road if need be.


I am glad to hear it is better to be a touch looser than to tight. I will leave it loose for now and will take the tools with me this weekend and check it after 100km or so to make sure all is well.

[disorderly]

Disorderly- was it a mate that did it for 40 bucks for you? if i could find someone here that would do the job for that id get them to do it every time. Although i am glad to have done it myself once to know i could do it on the road if need be.


No, Jeff it was just the local Beaurepairs place but I stayed and closely watched as I too have not done it before....I figured it would be good to get a lesson as I might start to do that myself.
But what I learn't was that it's a much easier job if you have all the correct tools available and someone that does it on a regular basis will do it quickly and properly if they are a serious worker
It probably took him 35-40 minutes but he only charged for a half hour.
Very pleased with that and they will continue to get my business.http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/../yabbfiles/Templates/Forum/default/smiley.gif
I would not even contemplate doing such a messy, exacting job for such a pittance.Not to mention how hard he went at it.

[Davey1]

If the hubs are feeling warm/hot after a drive it may not necessarily be from the bearing but from a dragging brake. That was my problem, bearings were fine (new), turned out to be a broken return spring not pulling the caliper off the disc.

The springs are a bit out of the way but not too hard to spot if you slide under the trailer and look in behind the wheel. Worth checking as if it gets too hot it soon will cause a bearing problem.

Hope this helps.

[jeffo]

davey, thanks for your thoughts, its just a little trailer with no brakes though. cheers.

disorderly, i will get onto that next time. thanks.

[Dignity]

jeffo, have you found your problem - where are you located