Premixing for a 2 Stroke

[harry_h01]

With the current service identifying that my VRO is stuffed, and the recommendation to install a standard fuel pump, I am looking for some advice on premixing my two stroke.

I am running a 40hp Johnson, with a 40lt tank.

I am after ideas on what others do to get the right mix. I have been told to carry a bottle of oil, and an empty bottle to use as the measure and shaker for the fuel oil mix.

Any one else got anything different?

One benefit, I now have to remove the old oil tank, and it leaves room to fit a spare battery.

Harry

[Chimo]

Hi Harry

When your 40 lt tank is below 1/2 full first throw in 400ml of TCW3 and then add 20lt of ULP and you should have a constant 50:1 brew. If you have your oil pre measured or in a container you can measure as you use and you buy 20 lt lots of ULP in your jerry cans (or plastics) it should work ok. This is all I do with my little motor.

Cheers
Chimo

[Noelm]

If you know how much you have left in the tank, then it is a breeze to add enough Oil to make up a 50:1 mix, if you do not know, then a best guess and err on the Oily side is the only way to go (or you could fully drain your tank) from then on, just add Oil as you add fuel in the correct proportions, or take remote tanks to the Servo and get Fuel, add the Oil, shake it up and pour/syphon into the Boat, BUT a word of caution, Plastic tanks MUST be placed on the ground to be filled, a lot of Garages will give you a clip around the Ears if you fill them up in the Boot.

[Noelm]

I forgot to ask, why are you getting rid of the "self Oiler" the later model is very reliable and gives next to no trouble, plus it gives you better Oil consumption.

[harry_h01]

Noelm and team thanks for the advice.

The self oiler has a blown solenoid. The last service identified it and advised that oil was still mixing, but could fail or be mixing on the heavy side. I could replace the solenoid, but it is $650, due to it being a sealed unit. Going manual will cost $200.

It is a 96 model motor, and the previous owner didn't spend much time or effort maintaining and looking after the old duck.

I am happy to premix, as the 40lt tank is not under floor etc, and easy to access. Also for what I do, and the amount I am on the water, the reservour of oil was an over kill for its size. Can better utilise the space now.

Harry

[Reel Nauti]

Harry when I had the two stroke I would put what fuel was needed in the tank leaving enough room to add oil. Look at the bowser reading to get the exact litres taken, and then add the oil accordingly. By the time you get to the ramp it is well mixed. I've done this for 30years, prior to buying the 4 stroke, and never ever encountered a problem.

Cheers

Dave

[sheridan]

Hi Harry
I have a 70 hp johno with oil injection disconnected, i mix my own 50:1 i also have a 40 ltr tank depends on how much running around i am going to do as to how much fuel i mix in the tank. I like to run reasonably new fuel so whats normaly left over after a trip goes into the nissan .I work out what i may use for the trip put oil in tank first then fuel to suit so it mixes well As mine is a 70 hp not 40 i also carry two 10 ltr jerry cans of unmixed fuel which sit either side of my tank so i mix 10 ltrs only if i have to not 20 ltrs and i find it better for weight distrubition

Geoff

[UNCLE NUGGY]

hey harry,
had a 115hp 01mod.ran on premix all the time ,mixed in jerrycans then into boat tank,no dramas.if it sat for a while the trip to ramp would mix it up fine(a while being no longer than 2or3 weeks).
cheers
UN

800ml oil = 50/1 in 40 ltrs

[Xahn1960]

My old merc is fed from a 220ltr under floor tank, I add what oil I need for the fuel I put in, havn't had a problem yet. The drive out pretty much has it well mixed by the time it reaches the water.

Bill.

[Fed]

I'd be asking about the blown solenoid, what solenoid?
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html
I know you're keen to run premix but do yourself a favour & read the link above.

[Noelm]

I tried not to get involved in the folly of disconnecting the Oil system, and I was so tempted, but you have done so, now I can relax.

[harry_h01]

Wow talk about putting the cat amoungs the pidgeons.

My VRO was beeping at low RPM. After reading the Artical from Fed, I made a call to the marine place.

No sorry, we have changed it out already. No we did not fault find it. It is a usual fault, the beeping, and the usual fix is to replace the VRO. Sorry about the solenoid comment, there is none fitted.

Now the frustration sets in. I have asked for a costing to put the VRO back in.

Am still awaiting the call on costs.

Harry

[Noelm]

there is no reason to swap back again (unless you really want to) but a lot of Mechanics suggest tossing out the Oil system just "because" but in reality the later models (and most of the old ones as well) give next to no trouble, sure a failure can be a disaster, and there has been failures, but in most cases, the Oil system is the last thing to kill your Motor, lots of other things do as well.

[harry_h01]

I will see what they come back with as a quote

Could be more of a hassle in the long run

[BM]

Hehehehehehehe...... (sorry but at your expense :( :( :( )


When a VRO shits itself, and they do so from time to time but as correctly pointed out by Noel, they don't regularly do it. In the early days of the VRO most VRO failures were caused by arrogant dealers who "thought" they knew it all and did not read the installation guide for the VRO. This is what caused the VRO hysteria...... The product was fine but STUPID, ARROGANT DEALERS caused all the trouble for OMC.......... How unfair is that???????

Harry, you can plug the oil input to your VRO and continue to run the fuel side at 50:1 (premix). At some stage the VRO (fuel side) may shit iself also and the engine just wont run.... At that time you then assess if you want to install a new VRO or an old syle crankcase pulse driven fuel pump (the usual alternative).

I usually plug the oil side of a failed VRO and advise the customer to premix their fuel (if thats what they want) and away they go. If the VRO then fails to act as a fuel pump then its a matter of either a new VRO or a modified standard fuel pump setup.

If you have the money go with the VRO as they work well, use less oil and they are the "proper" fix for the engine...

Cheers

[sheridan]

Hi BM
When I bought my boat it had the oil injection disconnected but the bloke gave me the tank and stuff for it he said he couldn't get the parts to fix it anymore it is a 1995 70hp johnson do you know if i can buy a VRO and how much approximately and where i may get parts for it in Brisbane

Geoff

[BM]

Gees,

For shits sake!!! Its not an old engine at all!!! Parts not available??? Last time I looked mate parts were available back to 1968......

Of course not all bits will be available but BRP still has listings back to 1968.

Ring a BRP dealer in your area but a new VRO is probably around $600.

Cheers

[sheridan]

Thanks BM i will check it out i just took his word for it .

Geoff

[FNQCairns]

After parts and labour how many years is it going to take to break even as a recfisher compared to premixing??, Is the engine going to last that long? What will be the engines condition be when the break even point comes? Will you see a better price upon sale from the initial refitting of VRO at this point?

IMO look a little colder at the issue, convenience always comes at a price.

cheers fnq