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solardome
12-03-2008, 12:56 PM
Just seeing if any one else has this blistering problem with salt underneath the paint. This is a almost new boat, the dealer in Townsville said this is a common problem that is not covered by warranty. I would have liked to be informed more before I handed over my dollars. But this is apparently in the hand book you are given. And happens more due to the humidity... I have seen this topic before on the site but not dated recently...

Noelm
12-03-2008, 01:13 PM
hhmm you would think that with correct preparation, then quality paint would last for years, regardless of the operating environment! have you tried to call Quintrex themselves??

BM
12-03-2008, 01:47 PM
Happens right round the country mate and to pretty much most brands. SO humidity appears to have little to do with it.

Funny, 20-30 yrs ago it wasn't usually a problem....

The manufacturers will hide behind a "no warranty on paint blistering" and probably some "salt water" clauses too. Good luck. If you nag them enough you may get somewhere but not likely as its been tried many times before.

cheers

Mak579
12-03-2008, 01:52 PM
Solardome, I feel for you.
As Noelm says, your probably better off enquiring to Quintrex themselves.
Me personally, I steer well clear of the Quintrex dealer in Townsville...lets just say I'm not a big fan of their customer service or pricing.
All the best,
Matt C

whiteman
12-03-2008, 02:16 PM
No problems with a 6yo Quinnie. Is it specifically excluded under warranty? If not, I'd go them hard via consumer protection laws.

LINZ_74
12-03-2008, 02:50 PM
i had a quintrex freedom sport and when i took out the rear lounge it too had blistering under the back rest part of it that is screwed to the top of the transom.
Say it was due to moisture not being able to dry up.

Lindsay

wags on the water
12-03-2008, 03:28 PM
2 words....Consumer Affairs.

Wear the fox hat
12-03-2008, 09:21 PM
It's electrolysis. Caused by 2 dissimilar metals reacting.
It's because maunufacturers don't apply Duralac (or any other similar products) to fittings.
The salt residue or salt water; if not neutralised when washing down the boat by using detergent or Saltex or whatever; continually draws moisture out of the air & stays wet. So along with the small electrical current that the 2 dissimilar metals creates, the continually wet surfaces then create electrolysis. All aluminium boats will get electrolysis unless preventative steps are taken.

Regards,
WTFH

seamaid
13-03-2008, 03:00 PM
:o Solardome hi
Got a 4 year 4.55 coast runner, starting to get a few blisters around the fittings,
Iwas told the same thing about the paint, i got no response, best of luck.
Seamaid

solardome
17-03-2008, 11:41 AM
Thanks for the replys, i have had Qunitrex inform me to "talk to the dealer" and felt like they dont want anything more to do with the problem......Next boat wont be a quintrex...Thats for sure......

gone_phishin
17-03-2008, 11:45 AM
solardome...did you get my PM?

Geoff

Didley
17-03-2008, 12:03 PM
Solardome, yes I've got it to, Quintrex Topender, and I don't believe its electrolysis, just bad prep.>:(

Coontakinta
17-03-2008, 12:20 PM
M8, reckon this is a reoccuring issue with many alloy boats and the reasons they give to you for its occurance is BS!

I reckon there is no warranty on paint because its done by a third party.

Its worth noting in your dealings with the manufacturer or the dealer that any purchase you make has to be "fit for purpose" and blistering paint whether it be from poor preparation, or the use of disimilar metals not being insulated properley, in my mind means that the item is not fit for purpose.

Its been documented here before, but slow and staedy will win u the race. Doccument ALL your dealings with the parties involved and speak with your consumer protection authority for advice. It might take a while and you may have swallow some pride and accept a compromise, but you should end up with a satisfactory conclusion. That provided the problem is not of your doing ie electrolysis or current leakage through not having a battery kill switch etc etc etc.

OOOOPs, just noticed I sent a PM about this to the wrong recipient:-[ Sorry Didley. New on on its way;)

Dirtysanchez
17-03-2008, 02:01 PM
There was a post not so long ago about using the Hull as an earth in the electrical wiring circuit, which is an apparent no no, but is common practice with this brand of boat.. Could that be a cause ? My mate has a 420 dory wide body, which came with no electricals (Coz I told him to save his bucks & I did it for him for nothing)

Russell

Scott nthQld
17-03-2008, 02:35 PM
I've got a 16ft reefmaster, 16 years old now and only just starting to showthis blistering and only in very small amounts,, seems to be were the welds are along th gunnels. Had the boat in Wollongong for most of its life, but been in Townsville for nearly 7 years now. We've just put it down to age, but if its happening to new quinnies, I doubt I'll be looking there for a replacement, I'm hoping to get a glass replacement now anyways.

gofishin
17-03-2008, 04:24 PM
WTFH, right process, wrong name, but you are spot on with the causes. Corrosion between dissimilar metals in an electrolyte (salty environment in this case) is called galvanic corrosion. It can be substantially reduced, but not totally eliminated, by physically isolating the metals (with plastic pads, Teflon, UHMW etc) and then using a product like Duralac or TefGel etc on the screws. It is not only caused be metals either; be wary of using any black plastics, or sealing rubbers/strips, that have an ‘activated carbon’ content. This will make your paint blister faster than anything.

As others have said, there are a few different causes of paint blistering, including trapped moisture, bad preparation, or surface contamination between coats (like sweat), however I’m pretty sure you will find that paint problems due to galvanic corrosion as such is excluded by most pressed manufacturers these days. Hence if the blistering occurs around a fitting, you will have a hard time getting any manufacturer to come to the party to fix it.

When comparing tinny ‘production‘ paint jobs of today with that of 20+ to even maybe 15 yrs ago, there is indeed a significant difference in application and finished quality, especially with resistance to blistering etc. What most people don’t appreciate is that, on the whole, this change has been driven by us, the consumer, at this lower end of the scale (although some pressed boats are no longer cheap!). We want the best looking painted tinny in the showroom at the cheapest possible price, and a lot of us have lost sight, or maybe are not aware, of the cost of this ‘cheapness’.

Maybe even 15 yrs ago some tinnies were still being acid washed and painted with 2 pack etch primer. This is why there is such a big difference in paint quality.

The OWH&S implications of acid washing and painting has changed dramatically since those times. When you are talking volume production the changes is amplified. In the old days the acid would end up down the stormwater drains (and into the bays!!!), and a lot of the painting was probably not even done in booths. To even have the facility to acid wash these days manufacturers need to spend a lot of money on the ‘monitored’ setup, including pits, pumping stations, filters, PH monitoring and neutralising equipment and chemicals, and then pay local councils for every litre that goes through the system, not to mention the annual licenses.

The other factor is the actual use of the chemicals themselves – if anyone has seen the prolonged effects of a bad acid skin burn then you will know what I’m talking about. The PPE required by government legislation makes this task difficult, uncomfortable, slow and hence definitely not suitable for volume production with this hazardous process. High risk = high cost.

Buy a decent plate boat and you will pay many thousands more for a paint job than you would for an equivalent pressed boat. The difference in completed paint jobs might not look that much different (assuming no filling/faring) if both are finished with a quality 2 pack, but it is what is in the preparation that counts, and costs, and lasts. Acid wash, chromate washes, 2 pack primers and tops, clear sealers +/-…If there are any professional marine painters here they could explain better, or correct me…

Solardome, this is in no way directed at you or any others, but my 2 cents why we have this problem in general. 3 yrs ago I bought a pressed 6m tinny. It has paint blistering around most fittings (from galvanic corrosion) and also (had) paint blistering from poor paint application in certain places after about 18months. It currently has yellow patches where I have been fixing recent problems with 2 pack primer (and not got around to top-coating yet).

I knew I would be doing these ‘fixes’ sometime, but was not prepared to pay many thousands more for a ‘proper’ paint job when I bought the boat. With hindsight my decision would be the same – with this type of boat. However, if I had the option, I would have spent a few more $’s, but not a lot more. However, my next boat will cost a lot more, and yes I will be happy to pay a lot more for a quality paint job (if it’s a platey). Will that totally eliminate paint blistering due to galvanic corrosion? No way, but I will expect a much longer service life.

If we want better paint jobs, and a more comprehensive paint warranty, we have to be prepared to pay for both. If only some are prepared to pay more, and all know the consequences, then you can bet your ar$e that manufacturers won’t change their products as this will price them out of sales.
My 2c.

Wear the fox hat
17-03-2008, 10:06 PM
Gofishin,
Sorry, my bad.
My post should have read 'It's galvanic corrosion caused by electrolysis'.

WTFH

hooknline
19-03-2008, 09:52 PM
Just remember with the earth problem you will never get away from it when running a outboard with electric start as the outboard earths to the hull,I also have a topender with the same probs but hey what can you do!:-[

Ram-rod
20-03-2008, 01:08 AM
i have a 2year old quintrex 540 spirit with no problem (tiny spots here and there, under canopy studs mainly). I disconnect the battery every time after use..
Russell

Mr__Bean
20-03-2008, 04:13 AM
Ram-rod,

The canopy studs should have nylon washers placed under them to prevent this (see photo).

If not installed it may not be too late to drill out the pop rivets and re-install with the nylon washers.

- Darren