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View Full Version : Start Problem - 1989 110 HP Johnson



Splash
28-01-2008, 06:42 PM
Hi team.

Just arrived back from another fishing trip.

Whilst out there, I expereinced a starting problem. Luckily, I was able to wingle a few wires and start and reach land.

Now, I am back and want to flush donk, but cannot becuase I cannot start it.

I hear a low pitch grinding noise in the ignition box. No, it is not the high pitch chirp sound we all hear when we start these donks..

Any thoughts?

Splash

Splash
08-03-2008, 01:40 PM
Team,

This problem has reared it's ugly head again.

After initial cranking (and not starting), donk will not crank now.

I hear a low pitch grinding noise in the ignition box.

Battery is fully charged and have checked/cleaned battery terminals.

Why won't this donk crank over now?

SPlash

bayfisher
08-03-2008, 02:53 PM
Is the starter turning or engaging??

Splash
09-03-2008, 09:59 AM
Hi Bayfisher,

Yes, Sm is engaging/turning.

I got it started again.

I disconnected the battery terminals and then re-connected. Donk started then.

Why is it that this happens?

The terminals are clean and all but why does it need the terminals to be disconnected and then re-connected to make things happen?

Splash

groverwa
09-03-2008, 01:13 PM
Sounds like there is a high resistance connection between the connector and the battery post

By clean do you mean bright or dull - use something like abrasive paper to clean the connections so that they are the bare metal colour - start the motor and if ok now use grease or lanolin to seal the connections

if this does not fix your problem I would consider replacing the connectors as one may have a high resistance connection where the cable and connector is crimped.
A way to see which it is can found is to feel the connectors after trying to start the motor as a high resistance connection will feel hot

Hope this helps

Mike

Splash
09-03-2008, 03:42 PM
Thanks guys.

I have just discovered that I should not be using the 12mm stud connections for the crank cables on the battery - but rather the 30mm uniformly smooth knobs for connection. Maybe this has attributed my startup problems severley...?

Can someone recommend a sutiable connection (must be as heavy as possible) to mount on this knob so that I can mount my battery cables to (with a 12mm hole at each end of cable???

Splash

Splash
09-03-2008, 05:13 PM
Would I be right in assuming this fundamentally flawed way of attaching crank cables to battery may have affect the choke/primer solenoid if voltage during cranking has dropped down too far for it to operate, or/and cranking speed has been too low???

Splash

Fed
10-03-2008, 07:37 AM
Are you using wing nuts on the studs?
A couple of months ago my OB guy told me to get rid of my wing nuts and put some real nuts on.
I laughed at him and said, "I'm an electrician and it will be OK, I will do the wing nuts up tight".
After doing them up with pliers I was still getting a very small hesitation on the initial cranking and after putting up with it for a few outings I decided to find the problem. Cranked it over a few times and sure enough one of the battery terminals was getting warm compared to the stone cold other one.
I'm off to buy some brass nuts and washers today so I'll let you know how it goes.
I have a funny feeling they are a 5/16 Whitworth thread???

robins123
10-03-2008, 08:00 AM
Hey Splash,
had a similar problem years ago that drove me mad. Turned out that the cables were rotten inside the outer insululation.
Worth checking as mine was intermitten problem like yours and could not be see.

Splash
10-03-2008, 09:01 AM
Great posts guys.

Yes, I was/am using wing nuts for the cranking connections - BAD MOVE!

I am ditching the idea of using the studs for battery crank connection all together.

Instead, I'l be using the fatter knobs with real clamps.

How do I check for rotten cables inside the outer insualtion?

SPlash

dnej
10-03-2008, 09:21 AM
Splash,
Most battery leads are not tinned.
Over time the rot creeps up the cable,and become dull and brittle.Not sure of the technical term.
I had old wiring on my boat,and I could not believe the state it was in .I think a resistance test will tell you,but there are more qualified guys on here that will tell you.Old boot,will know.
David

FNQCairns
10-03-2008, 09:37 AM
Wing nuts are a big no no! Back in the 60/70s they cost people lot's of money in replacement black boxs as they were not very tolerant devices back then but they still cause all sorts of drama as the clamping pressure is simply not enough at about 2/3 pressure the wings sheer off!

cheers fnq

robins123
10-03-2008, 09:42 AM
Splash,
Still think it is probably rotten leads. Try running jumper leads from battery to motor, should tell you. I tried everything but the leads as they looked great from the outside, auto lecky replaced them and showed me old ones ,they were just dust inside. Caused slow wind and no wind at times then all would be OK for a while then the same thing over again.Would come good with movement, jacking motor etc.

Splash
10-03-2008, 10:29 AM
thanks boys.

More key learnings!

Splash
10-03-2008, 02:30 PM
http://www.batteryworld.com.au/data/portal/00005071/content/27073001153712530968.pdf

Found this link you may be interested in....