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Splash
27-01-2008, 11:37 AM
Hi Team.

My steering is stiff - especially when not used for a while.

What steps do I take to remedy this?

Splash

ozscott
27-01-2008, 12:05 PM
Mate - I have tried using oil in the ram etc, but at the end of the day its a lot of time and goo wasted for short term bandaid. I recently swapped a cable and while there did a new helm and wheel too (both VERY old) and the difference with the NFB helm that uses planetary gears and new cable is amazing - transforms the boat.

Cheers

Moonlighter
27-01-2008, 12:19 PM
Hi Splash

I had the same problem some years ago and found out that there can be 2 main reasons:

1. Poorly greased outboard. Under the power head at the top of the leg, there are a couple of grease nipples that lubricate the shaft on which the motor pivots. Usually these only get grease every year when the motor is serviced but that really isn't enough. So first thing to do is add some grease to these points. If you disconnect the steering rod and the motor is still hard to turn, this will most likely be the reason and a good dose of quality marine grease will fix it.

2. Steering cable not lubricated and salt incursion into cable causing cable to become tight and to stick. The main reason this happens is when the seal on the end of the tilt tube where the steering rod comes out has failed or not been fitted, or this joint has not been properly lubricated.

I found out the remedy for a sticking steering cable a few years ago from some mates in our Club, and have used it on my boat and assisted others to use it as well. (The other alternative is to replace the steering cable with a new one, or, as I eventually did, go to hydraulic steering!)

Material required: 1 - 2 litres of auto transmission fluid; 1 x 50 - 60cm length of 1/5" or 2" plastic water pipe with end cap to suit; plasticine; and duct tape. A mate to help.

Steps as follows:

1. Disconnect steering rod from motor and remove steering cable from tilt tube;

2. Fit and seal the end cap to the 2" plastic water pipe, and drill a hole in the centre of it the correct size so that you can feed the part of the steering cable that moves in and out through it and into the pipe.

The idea is that the cable can be fed into the tube to the point where the lock nut is, and you seal it off there. I sealed up the gaps in the hole around the cable with plasticine and held it in place with a thorough wrapping of duct tape. Use heaps!

The idea now is to fill up the pipe with auto transmission fluid, and then get your mate to wind the steering from lock to lock for at least 30 minutes while you keep the tube held still vertically. This "sucks" the auto trans fluid, which is really just very fine oil, into the steering cable and provides the needed lubricant.

Works evey time, and the more times you turn lock-to-lock, the better it gets. I recall doing this once on a friend's boat where you could barely move the cable and we got it back better than new, but it took a couple of hours of turning!

The only downside is that its common for the oil to work its way right up to the steering box and you can get oil leaking from there - easily fixed with a strategically placed rag!

I think that I still have the bits and pieces in my shed - if you're in Bne PM me and if I can find them you're welcome to borrow.

Grant

ozscott
27-01-2008, 12:58 PM
grease is the enemy of cable steering. You can try pulling the ram out of the tilt tube and cleaning it and swarfing out the tilt tube with a auger bit with sand paper or similar and then cleaning thoroughly. Then apply a light amount of auto trans oil on the ram and assemble with a new rubber boot with felt liner for $3 or so (instead of the threaded plastic one). HOWEVER is the grease is up to the top of the larger part (outside) of the ram and has gone into the inner ram its not going to do too much because the grease and salt would have pushed up into it and its then only a bandaid.

New cables should never be greased.

Cheers

dnej
27-01-2008, 01:01 PM
Say Grant,
Have you got a pic to post up.
David

Hagar
27-01-2008, 02:36 PM
Splash
Plenty of previous discussion about this topic if you search . My two bobs worth is that older outboards with tight steering is normally corrosion and hardened grease inside the tilt tube clamping onto the teleflex push - pull rod . Easy to tell just pull out the steering cable from the tilt tube and try it by itself . Do not be surprised if the cable is difficult to remove due to the corrosion inside the tube .

We all have an opinion on grease . All my boats have had the steering cable regularly greased with quality MARINE grease and none seized up . I think sometimes automotive grease is the culprit here .

datamile
27-01-2008, 03:33 PM
I got told to always clean and oil the ram on return, and the give the steering a few turns every week.

My old cable jammed in the sheath after 6 weeks of no use, the cable would rotate but not move up and down.

Atleast keep the ram and tilt tube happy, or its out with a big hammer and grinder etc.

Splash
27-01-2008, 04:22 PM
Gees - more maintenance..... :-(

THe price I pay for retaining the old lady.....and old donk.. :-(

OK - where/what is tilt tube, ram..?

Fantastic replies BTW...

SPlash

ozscott
27-01-2008, 05:34 PM
Front of the engine Splash. As for grease if you install new dont use it. My local very experienced marine mech and the teleflex dealer both made that very clear to me - and get the new rubber boot thats available for a couple of dollars.

The tilt tube holds the rod that extends to allow the motor to turn...you might need to unbolt the motor and lift it (as in block and tackle) if you havent got the clearance to get the old one out and serviced/new one in... have to measure it... but you cannot afford to bend the ram much at all.

Cheers

Moonlighter
27-01-2008, 08:01 PM
Here's a picture of the pipe that I used as described earlier.

Grant

nautilus
27-01-2008, 08:31 PM
What ever you do, stay away from WD40 on the steering cable. You may already know this, but I didn't and learned the hard way. I sprayed a bit on the push rod and it freed up quite nicely. I came back a week later and it was so badly ceased that I had to attached a chain to my tow bar and use the car to pull it out. It took a couple of goes. I then had to beat it back through, and I am not joking, it took over an hour of belting it with a 4lb hammer. It was jammed good. I replaced the cable and felt I like I had just upgraded to power steering. It was AMAZING the difference.

onerabbit
27-01-2008, 08:37 PM
About 1k for hydraulics, haven't looked back.

Muzz

datamile
27-01-2008, 08:44 PM
Two questions.

Why not WD40. I know its a water displacement oil rather than a lube, but not heard that its bad. Is CRC Marine 66 the same ?

Why do you get the rubber boots from (Redlands ) ? I've got an evin 115di with teleflex steering.

Splash
27-01-2008, 08:53 PM
Gees - this is now getting bigger than Ben Hur.

I see nothing on my rig that resembles a tilt tube..

I think I need to focus on this steering next - after I finese my prop performance..

Splash

ozscott
27-01-2008, 08:53 PM
Mate - ring the teleflex dealer in Redcliffe - he is at a mower shop. He has the rubber boots. He also has the good oil on preserving these mech steering systems.

Cheers

ozscott
27-01-2008, 08:56 PM
www.fishingmonthly.com.au/ads/control_conn.html

datamile
27-01-2008, 09:37 PM
http://www.biasboating.com.au/Images/steering_pics/3158TiltTube.jpg

This is a tilt tube and ram, which is connected to steering arm on the engine.

Splash
02-03-2008, 02:22 PM
Just an update you wonderful people...

My steering totally locked up this morning - at home.

That's it - time to operate :-)

Pulled out my cable and tilt tube and ram.

Krud, hard old grease cased on inner walls of title tube - stopping ram to move.

Spent 1 hour cleaning it all up and sprayed the tube.

I used WD40 instead of oil - this was mentioned earlier not to use WD40 and I forgot. :-(

Does this mean I need to pull it out again and aplly oil instead - as mentioned?

Splash

Splash
02-03-2008, 03:25 PM
I have just oiled the shaft/rod.

Thanks

dnej
02-03-2008, 05:47 PM
Onya spash.Keep up the auto trannie oil.and keep her swinging
David

Splash
02-03-2008, 07:22 PM
Thanks David,

Will this be OK now if I retain regular oiling?

SPlash

Lewy
02-03-2008, 09:26 PM
Steerflex make a Stainless Steel cable, I bought mine from BIAS had to order it in,
In their instructions they say to lube the end of the shaft that protrudes out of the tilt tube with WD40 or similar. Only had mine two weeks can't coment on the how long its going to last. It wasnt any dearer than a Telflex system.

Regards

Lewy

Noelm
03-03-2008, 08:11 AM
OK now here is the "good oil" on steering, first off you need to find out if the Motor is stuck/sticking or the steering cable, which is usually the cable, but not always, then if it is the cable, take it off and dump it!! no stuffing around, no pulling to bits or anything else, throw it as far away as you can, then clean out the tilt tube really clean and apply ONLY proper marine grease, not water proof or anything else, and the best I have found is OMC Triple Gaurd, it is fairly expensive, but will never dry out, or go hard, it is also what is used to grease any grease nipples on your Motor, then reassemble and your done for years, now if it is the swivel bracket on the Motor that is seizing, you are in for a really sh!t/big but relatively easy job, the whole swivel braket needs to be removed and dismantled, cleaned out and regreased with the afore mentioned grease, you might do a tempory job with heat and fooling around, but it will stick again, only other option is hydraulic!

dnej
03-03-2008, 11:49 AM
Lewy,
what did you pay for the stainless job.They are made in Singapore I think
David

Lewy
03-03-2008, 01:54 PM
David,
Around 260 - 270 Complete

Regards

Lewy

Splash
03-03-2008, 08:24 PM
grease is the enemy of cable steering. You can try pulling the ram out of the tilt tube and cleaning it and swarfing out the tilt tube with a auger bit with sand paper or similar and then cleaning thoroughly. Then apply a light amount of auto trans oil on the ram and assemble with a new rubber boot with felt liner for $3 or so (instead of the threaded plastic one). HOWEVER is the grease is up to the top of the larger part (outside) of the ram and has gone into the inner ram its not going to do too much because the grease and salt would have pushed up into it and its then only a bandaid.

New cables should never be greased.

Cheers

Ozscott - or others -

What is this rubber boot with felt liner called?

Splash

Splash
03-03-2008, 10:53 PM
grease is the enemy of cable steering. You can try pulling the ram out of the tilt tube and cleaning it and swarfing out the tilt tube with a auger bit with sand paper or similar and then cleaning thoroughly. Then apply a light amount of auto trans oil on the ram and assemble with a new rubber boot with felt liner for $3 or so (instead of the threaded plastic one). HOWEVER is the grease is up to the top of the larger part (outside) of the ram and has gone into the inner ram its not going to do too much because the grease and salt would have pushed up into it and its then only a bandaid.

New cables should never be greased.

Cheers


OzScott - These rubber seals ar eafter market apparently.

Please provide a link / contact details of supplier(s) where I can obtain this part.

Splash

Splash
04-03-2008, 04:15 PM
Can someone please give me the link for this rubber boot with felt liner?

My johnson outboard dealer doe snto stock it.

Does anyone have a picture of this part at least?

Splash

Splash
15-03-2008, 02:01 PM
grease is the enemy of cable steering. You can try pulling the ram out of the tilt tube and cleaning it and swarfing out the tilt tube with a auger bit with sand paper or similar and then cleaning thoroughly. Then apply a light amount of auto trans oil on the ram and assemble with a new rubber boot with felt liner for $3 or so (instead of the threaded plastic one). HOWEVER is the grease is up to the top of the larger part (outside) of the ram and has gone into the inner ram its not going to do too much because the grease and salt would have pushed up into it and its then only a bandaid.

New cables should never be greased.

Cheers


OzScott/others.

I fitted that rubber boot iwth felt liner now.

But I have had to leave that big nut off that screws on where the rubber boot is now.

What is the funstion of this large nut and is it ok to leave off?

Splash

ozscott
15-03-2008, 03:14 PM
yep - leave it off mate - the large nut what screwed off is usually plastic and is meant to clean the shaft and keep salt water out but they never seal that well and the rubber boot does it well. Cheers matey - sounds like its going a treat

dnej
15-03-2008, 04:39 PM
Splash,where did you end up purchasing the boot?
David

Splash
15-03-2008, 05:33 PM
Thansk OzScott - great key learning there!

Incidently, that large nut is steel (not plastic) - I hope wer'e talking the same nut here.. :-)

Dnej - The contact details are at work - will let you know after Monday. There is a mob in SE QLD that I dealt with - courtesy of OzScott :-)

Splash

Maggot1
15-03-2008, 06:34 PM
Mate use a little outboard oil every month and you wont have a problem. dont use grease, salt water will dry it out.

Splash
15-03-2008, 08:07 PM
thanks Maggot!

ozscott
15-03-2008, 08:54 PM
Splash - have a look at the diagram on page 2 of this thread posted by Datamile - on the right hand side of the picture you will see the side of the rod that comes out of the tilt tube and pushes and pulls the steering link arm (which in turn attaches to the front of the outboard). The plastic (or in your case steel) nut is on that end matey.

Cheers

BM
16-03-2008, 07:23 AM
Splash,

I think your talking about the retaining nut on the tilt tube.

If you leave this off then you don't have your swivel bracket correctly held together.

I gather from what you have written that you don't have enough thread protruding from the port (left) side to allow the steel nut and the felt wiper nut. If so then when you have refitted the tilt tube you haven't lined it up right.

Easyily fixed. Undo the nut on the other end and the steering cable nut and back the nut off fromt he starboard side so you get more tube protruding through the port side.

Understand?

Cheers

Splash
16-03-2008, 10:22 AM
Thansk BM and OzScott.

BM - Yes, you are correct. I don't have enough thread protruding from the port (left) side to allow the steel nut and the felt wiper nut. But, I have not re-fitted the the tube at all and stil lremains as before.

If needed, I will have a play at undoing the nut on the other end and the steering cable nut and back the nut off from the starboard side so I get more tube protruding through the port side.

Are you implying that I must not leave this nut off?

Splash

dnej
19-03-2008, 10:25 PM
Dnej - The contact details are at work - will let you know after Monday. There is a mob in SE QLD that I dealt with - courtesy of OzScott :-)

Splash????????? Wellll

ozscott
20-03-2008, 07:12 AM
control connections at Sandgate matey - its a mower shop combined with a teleflex dealer and the bloke who runs it has good knowledge.

ozscott
20-03-2008, 07:12 AM
I posted the link to the advert above

BM
20-03-2008, 07:33 AM
Thansk BM and OzScott.

BM - Yes, you are correct. I don't have enough thread protruding from the port (left) side to allow the steel nut and the felt wiper nut. But, I have not re-fitted the the tube at all and stil lremains as before.

If needed, I will have a play at undoing the nut on the other end and the steering cable nut and back the nut off from the starboard side so I get more tube protruding through the port side.

Are you implying that I must not leave this nut off?

Splash

If the large nut is the one the screws onto the tilt tube then it needs to be there. Its part of the whole mounting assembly.