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West Coast Pom
10-12-2007, 01:02 PM
Morning all!

First of all a big thanks (albeit for a few weeks ago) to the guys in the ski boat at Belmont (WA) who towed me back to the ramp after my steering cable snapped!

Anyway- i have read every post about changing the steering and all is going well (thanks to all that post here, best source of info on the net for boat owners), got the old cable out of the trim tilt tube(via pipe grips, angle grinder, Inox and lots of swearing!) and i now need to install the new teleflex mech steering.

I have all the gear and it is clear that the outboard needs to come off so i can run the new steering arm through the trim tilt tube hence my question:

What's the easiest way of getting the outboard off? Not a huge one, 70Hp, Evinrude 2 stroke- 4 bolts to the transom etc...

I dont want to do the manhandling thingy as i dont want to risk dropping it or putting me and my mates backs out so i was thinking of hiring an automotive engine hoist to take the load- anyone here done that and if so is there anything i need to know about it?

is there specific lifting points i need to use or can i just run some webbing slings under the main body of the outboard to lift it while i install the new arm?

any advice guys 'n girls is much appreciated!

Cheers
Pom ::)

Noelm
10-12-2007, 01:46 PM
if you have an engine hoist, one of those funny looking long arm things on wheels, it is a real breeze, if not then some sort of chain block or something will get you going, most motors have a ring on the power head for lifting, just remove the cowling and have a look, also if you are lucky, you may not need to disconnect everything, just move it away a tad to slip in the steering and put it back again!

Noelm
10-12-2007, 01:48 PM
oooops just re read post, yes, for sure hire a hoist, but first check out the price of a new (chinese) one at Supercheap, they are as cheap as chips and might even be the same as hire, when finished, pull it to bits and keep for some other time.

West Coast Pom
10-12-2007, 01:49 PM
Cheers Noelm,
Just the response i was hoping for! Yeah i have had a look and prob only needs to be moved a few inches to clear the engine well and i should be ok!

Pom

West Coast Pom
10-12-2007, 01:51 PM
Haha off to Supercheap i go!

to quote the beer-prevention officer (my missus) "if it's not the boat shop it's Bunnings, if it isn't either of them it's Supercheap"!!

Cheers
Pom

littlejim
10-12-2007, 04:38 PM
excuse my iggorance, but why does the donk need to come off to get the new rod through the tilt tube. (Mine is prone to sticking so I have a vested interest in the answer.)
the various times I have unjammed mine I got the impression that everthing was flexible enough to push a new one in. Wrong?

West Coast Pom
10-12-2007, 04:50 PM
Hi Jim- have a read of the other posts- they helped me no end in sorting out mine but in a nutshell:

The push pull arm (that connects onto the end of the cable) is a straight piece of stainless steel and so there is no flex- the cable that drives it is flexible but it's the push pull arm that slides into the trim tilt tube on the outboard.

My outboard (as is with some other peoples by all accounts) is bolted to the transom, the front of the engine sits forwards of the transom in a sort of "well" over the deck.

The holes in the side of the engine well that let the cables and steering pass sometimes do not line up exactly with the trim tilt tube, and as i noted above, the arm that goes into this tube isn't flexible- therefore i have to basically lift the motor off to give me enough straight line room to push the steering arm through the engine well hole and trim tilt tube!!

Confused? Dont be- a "quick" check (if everything hasnt seized) is to unhook the steering arm from the motor and push it through the trim tilt tube- if you can get it out in one movement i.e. without the angle grinder- you should be right to do the reverse with the new cable!

Hope that helped?

Pom