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Flex
06-12-2007, 10:59 AM
Got a 2007 50hp yamaha. And when ever I use ear muffs to flush the engine it barely draws any water through. It takes a good 30 seconds to get the water out of the tell tail(which is scarey waiting for it as you dont wanna cook it) and when it comes out its at stuff all pressure.

I have tried 2-3 dif muffs with all the same result. If I stick the engine in a wheelie bin it works fine.

any ideas why this would be happening? aside the water intake I have to other vents below the cav plate that need to get covered when its in the bucket. could this affect it drawing water.

filling up a wheelie bin of water to flush my engine isn't very water friendly.

charleville
06-12-2007, 11:16 AM
I don't have an answer to your problem but since my last service on my 60HP 4 stroke Merc, I have the same problem. It was never a problem before that so I am wondering if there is something ill with the new impeller that they have installed in the water pump. It is Ok above idling speed.

The prop on my motor always spins a little when in neutral (Have asked Mercury and my dealer and they all say that this is not unusual - it can be a nuisance though even though there is no power in the spinning) and I notice that when it is in the container of water that a lot of bubbles come from somewhere around the bottom of the leg. Not sure if any of this is relevant but I am wondering where the bubbles come from.

Instead of a wheelie bin, I use an upright yard cart that I bought from Bunnings. Still uses a lot of water though. The passionfruit vine where I empty it is doing much better now though. ;D

Blackened
06-12-2007, 01:37 PM
G'day

Check your muffs are firm and sealing well. Other than that... Just resort to a garbage bin of some sort, You'd be surprised to see how much water is actually used whilst on muffs.

Charlie, the bubbles are more than likely coming from the thru-prop exhaust.

Dave

Jeremy
06-12-2007, 02:01 PM
I use hand pressure on both sides of the muffs to make sure most of the water goes where it is needed. The bonus is I get a wash down at the same time :-)

Jeremy

BR65
06-12-2007, 03:21 PM
Flex, my mate has a 2007 f50 yammy, Ive got the 2007 f40 model, both motors have a hose atatchment adjacent the cowel, you just click on your hose and flush away, no need to start the motor at all, no muffs needed.

cheers
brian

Stingertas
06-12-2007, 05:51 PM
If you do have one of the hose adapters for flushing the motor as mentioned, is it a bad idea to run the engine while flushing in this manner? Is the impeller kept dry?

Cheers,

Stinger

Benny01
06-12-2007, 06:10 PM
i have a n'08 model suzuki 40hp and it does the same unless you hold your hand over it. you buy a separate attachment to flush it with

Lovey80
06-12-2007, 07:10 PM
You could always try what someone posted in a "good ideas" thread a little while ago. Do a search there was a photo of it. It was simply a set of muffs where the second muff had been replaced with another one with the hose attachment. Then each side had a hose muff with hose running to a Y junction and into the main hose line. This idea would allow water to go in both sides of your intakes and may solve the problem very cheaply.

Good luck

Cheers Chris

charleville
06-12-2007, 07:13 PM
You could always try what someone posted in a "good ideas" thread a little while ago. Do a search there was a photo of it. It was simply a set of muffs where the second muff had been replaced with another one with the hose attachment. Then each side had a hose muff with hose running to a Y junction and into the main hose line. This idea would allow water to go in both sides of your intakes and may solve the problem very cheaply.



I made one of those stereo muffs but it made no difference to the problem. :'(

PWCDad
07-12-2007, 07:05 AM
I found the same thing with my F80 Yam ... flushed ok on muffs but far better when I use a plastic box.

Its like a butchers box but a little larger.

The exhaust actually heats the water up to warmish .... when finished I add a tablespoon of dawn dishwashing liquid to the water. I have a 12v deckwash pump and battery mounted on a cheap trolley from Bunnings and use this pump to wash the trailer down with the warm soapy water in the flush box. The small addition of dawn seems to wash salt off faster ???

Its a form of recycle ... getting two uses from same water ... water is from tank anyway but its still scarce .... we need some rain soon.

Regards
PWCDad

PADDLES
07-12-2007, 07:07 AM
i've been told to not run the motor whilst using the hose flush attachment, i don't know why, but apparently it's bad

thelump
07-12-2007, 09:53 AM
Mate I had a 40 yammy 2 stroke and found a way to fix this problem. I used the rectangular muffs and just belted the metal closed a bit more at the other end to the rubber bits. This applies a lot more pressure to the muffs and creates a better seal. Also I found that when applying the muffs I moved them until water flowed from the 2 holes behind where you put the muffs(one either side of motor)If the water came out of these holes you got a good flow through the motor and out the telltail.Hope this helps.
Cheers Jason

charleville
07-12-2007, 11:08 AM
I have a 12v deckwash pump and battery mounted on a cheap trolley from Bunnings and use this pump to wash the trailer down with the warm soapy water in the flush box.


What a brilliant idea! Thanks!

PWCDad
07-12-2007, 04:26 PM
Here is a pic so you can see how I set mine up .... pics taken whilst on fortnightly charge.

We use it connected to rain tank to wash the boat, skis and the cars etc. works well and supplies very good pressure.

Of course you can do the same with 240v but this unit is mobile to any water supply.

The pump is enough to flush the outboard via muffs ..rated at 13 lpm 50psi from memory.

Regards
PWCDad

Dan5
07-12-2007, 04:45 PM
Mate i have a 07 yammie 60 4strk and have no trouble at all with muff's but my mate has exactly the same engine and has your drama's(go figure).The hose fitting attachment is for flushing the power head only it does not get any water down to the impellor so don't run the engine using this method.Now if you flush the engine with muff's still disconect the top flushing point and run the hose through for 30 sec's or so as this flushing point WILL still hold saltwater.So the only way to get the engine completly rinsed is to do both,better safe than sorry.Cheer's Dan....

haggis
07-12-2007, 08:53 PM
I have the same problem with my yammie 40 4 st .
I first of all flush the engine with the hose attachment at the head ,then put the leg in a large container & let it run for a few minutes then use the water from the bucket to wash the boat .
cheer fae haggis .....................

seatime
07-12-2007, 09:53 PM
I'll 2nd Dan5 in using both the flushing points method.

When I've come across the slow tell-tale problem before - I first flush from the top connection... then refit plug... connect up the muffs... start the motor.
If the tell-tale had been slow using only the muffs.... it flows earlier after flushing from the top 1st. also need to have the motor trimmed all the way down.
at least from my experience.

regards

GAD
07-12-2007, 11:19 PM
Try making a set of muffs that has two water connections, I bought two sets and sort of modified them sort of a double muff , if you like ..

snasman
07-12-2007, 11:45 PM
Hey guys ,most late model marine motors have thermostats built in when you force the water in like mentioned above its just forcing the water past the bleeder hole in the thermostat it wont damage anything and its not wrong to do it but a thermostat needs to be at a certain tempreture to open thus maintaining a constant temp and allowing water to flow to the tell tale and through the rest of the motor ,the reason the tell tale works from the word go when the boat is in the water or in a deep container is the water is being pushed up through all the water gallerys and into the impellor and basicly self priming it,hope this made sence.

poundalead
08-12-2007, 05:55 AM
I had the same problem with my Yam 100hp 4st. At the time I had just had the impeller replaced so I wasn't impressed. I rang my Yam dealer and he said it was a water pressure thing. I just use a drum now.

captain rednut
08-12-2007, 07:34 AM
yamahas dont like muffs as you know a drum is the only way. i know lots of people including myself who all have experienced this same problem. there are recent threads on this if you wish to go back some months. most people i know have the overheat buzzer sound on muffs with the late yammys. personally i think the cowl flushing adaptor isnt worth a mention. thanks cr

Stevo25
08-12-2007, 07:46 AM
The Lump is totally right

I have had 3 yammies and all with the same problem, you must use the large rectangular muffs, and the muffs must cover the intake holes and also the single hole about 40mm infront of the intake holes, if you muffs cover both your water pressure it plenty.

like i said all 3 yammies ive had are the same.

Regards
Stevo

HIM&HER.ADVENTURES
09-12-2007, 05:41 PM
Afternoon Flex.
Being a two stroke Yamaha it won't have the flushing device, invest in a fold away flush bag, simply pop's up around your engine fill with water and flush I use one for on-site running just make sure the water is around the bottom mounts, keeps the waterpump underwater.
People with the flush device run the garden hose from your hot water laundry tap, partially opens the thermostat gives the powerhead a better flush.
Cheers Jono.

death_ship
09-12-2007, 07:50 PM
i threw away muffs for my yammy 4 stroke after the buzzer went fist time i tried to use them, drum only for me.

groverwa
09-12-2007, 08:06 PM
I agree with Paddles -

i've been told to not run the motor whilst using the hose flush attachment, i don't know why, but apparently it's bad -

The dealer here in Bunbury told me never to run the motor when using the flush attachment and only run the motor when using the muffs