1989 Johno 110HP StartUP Issues

[Splash]

Hi Team,

Whenever I want to restart my outboard after say stopping at an island or after a stoppage for a while, it will not restart.

I am following the manual instructions without avail. SOmeone has stated the float in carbies need adjusting - If true how?

If not, what now?

I do have two carbie kits ready to go in..

I have de-carbed my outboard.

HELP??
Cameron

[Chris Ryan]

For the love of God Splash - that donk still giving you curry??

Mine used to have a similar issue - I have a 115 V4 Johno similar vintage - i tried mucking around with the carbies but to no avail. Mine was like it was flooded when trying to restart it after sitting a while. Once it kicked over (5-10mins later after first trying to restart it) it would blow a $hiteload of very fuelly smoke for 10 seconds, then all OK.

Fixed it by putting on a tap to the fuel line after the water seperator. My donk seemed to get a syphon type effect after stopping and this keeps the pressure in the line, just stops fuel flowing to carbies for the duration.

If I know I am stopping for a while, just turn off the fuel. Ready to go, turn on, kicks over first go and away.

Not sure if it fixes your problem, but it did mine. Good luck.

Chris

[Splash]

thanks chris - i luv my donk.

that sounds like exactly the problem i have - sypon type effect.

you have a picutre you can show me of what u did - and where?

splash

[station-rat]

Hi Splash
Could you just disconnect the fuel line from the engine when you stop, and only reconnect when you want to startup again. Just to try out this theory before you start modifying things?
Station-rat8-)

[Splash]

ok - will do.

daddy - any pic of the setup?

ssplas

[Chris Ryan]

Hey splash - no mate.

However, I just went to a plumbing supplies shop and got something together as the off the shelf stuff wasn't easy to find. You can buy off the shelf now see this 3-way tap for example. Allows two tanks to one engine or one tank to two engines.

http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?item=85750&search123=fuel&intAbsolutePage=4

I'f I get a chance I'll try and take a pic for you soon. Bit busy with the election right now mate.

Chris

[Chris Ryan]

Mate,

Quick diagram of how it is hung together for you.

Chris

[Splash]

Many thansk Daddy.

GO THE LIBS!

[Chris Ryan]

Hey Splash, did ya get the fuel tap in?

Chris

[HIM&HER.ADVENTURES]

Morning splash.
Your primer bulb has two one way valves inside it's makings to prevent the fuel running back to the tank, If this is happining, replace the primer bulb.
This will hold pressure for the following start up.
The v4 omc is a great reliable engine, Also the manual primer normally on the top of the air box on that model,check to see that's not weeping when the keys on ignition the spring wears internally do this by removing one of the small lines. cheers

[Splash]

Hi Team,

I still have starting issues.

Now, it seems 98% of my starting issues are when initial launching from ramp.

When out on water, it seems OK to start first up.

I have rpelaced the primer bulb.

When I am ramp first thing in morning, the donk just does not want to start initially. After the 6th attempt, it starts and out I out I putter..........

I make sure I prime it first, give it choke and ensure crank battery is fully charged.

THoughts?

Splash

[Splash]

Hi Splash
Could you just disconnect the fuel line from the engine when you stop, and only reconnect when you want to startup again. Just to try out this theory before you start modifying things?
Station-rat8-)

Hi SRAT - I have attempted this on a full day's fishing. THings wre good and starting was OK. The next session I had I did not perform this activity and also started well when out at sea.

SPlash

[Spaniard_King]

Splash could you please post your starting routine.... omc engines have a particular routine which needs to be carefully followed

[Splash]

Morning splash.
Your primer bulb has two one way valves inside it's makings to prevent the fuel running back to the tank, If this is happining, replace the primer bulb.
This will hold pressure for the following start up.
The v4 omc is a great reliable engine, Also the manual primer normally on the top of the air box on that model,check to see that's not weeping when the keys on ignition the spring wears internally do this by removing one of the small lines. cheers

HHA - Which line should I remove when testing this manual primer?

Should the weep come out of this lien or somewhere else?

SPlash

[Splash]

Hi SK.

Ok here goes (what I normally do at ramp first thing):

1 - Lower donk half way in water
2 - Squeeze primer bulb until hard
3 - Lift choke right up
4 - Turn ignition key half way (and not start), depress in for 5-10 secs
5 - Turn key all way
6 - If start, lower choke half way and wait for about 20 secs
7 - Lower choke right down
8 - Lower leg right down
8 - If still running, allow to idle for 1-2 mins
9 - Put into reverse and out I go.

I repeat steps 1-8 until I get start.

SPlash

[BM]

Splash,

The lever you are raising and lowering is not a choke. Its a "warm up lever". This advances the ignition timing and slightly opens the carbs to allow the engine to start more easily.

After priming the primer bulb hard, raise the warm up lever say 3/4 of its travel, turn key to 'on' position, push and hold for 10 sec, the crank engine.

If it doesn't fire withing a couple of seconds, repeat the choke procedure and touch nothing else (ie: push and hold key for 10 secs) then crank again.

If engine starts and then stalls, repeat the choke procedure and crank again. Cold carby engines need plenty of choke to get them going.

Once it starts control the revs with the warm up lever so its neither revving its tits off, or stalling. This will usually require up and down movement of the warm up lever for the first 10 seconds or so and then the lever can be left till the engine warms up and then the lever can be dropped down.

Cheers

[Spaniard_King]

Splash,

BM is correct, just be aware the choke will not be in use unless the engine is "CRANKING" so its imperitive that you hold the key pushed in whilst cranking and as BM has stated.. warm up lever up around 75-100%.. now crank until the engine kicks.. then use no mre choke.. just crank and warm up lever.. it's important you cease choking otherwise you will flood the engine..

give this a go:)

After the engine is warm all you should need is warm up lever and cranking to start it.. a good engine will only need to be cranked when warm.. yours may need a bit of coaxing with the warm up lever due to its age.

[Splash]

Many thanks guys. I will try this subtle variation in starting next time.

I guess we have hit the nail on the head - "Cold carby engines need plenty of choke to get them going.."

Is there any way of improving this start time with fine tuning for example - despite the age of this donk? (No new engine comments please :-)

SPLash

[MyEscape]

Despite it's age (there's a lot of older motors still running ok), there probably no reason it shouldn't start/run ok.

It doesn't just need "a good mechanic" to go over it does it?

Steve

[Fed]

Do you still have an electric fuel pump Splash, if so it could change what is considered the 'normal' starting method.

BM are you saying to hold the 'choke' button in for 10 seconds without turning the engine over, that's sort of how it sounds?

BTW Splash, I've found that if it starts to die when cold a momentary push of the 'choke' button works wonders on mine.

[Splash]

Fed - I have a mechanical fuel pump.

SPlash

[Splash]

Guys - just had a chat to a boat mechanic and he told me the symptons of poor inital starting is loss of compression :-( When run and then stopped and then start again - all ok as piston rings heat up , expand and take up the gaps which is causing the poor compression -

Does this sound plausible to you guys..

Splash

[Montague]

many typo errors sorry

[Montague]

hi
i have 1976 200 johno

i can relate to your problems.. as mine has given me nothing but grief until yesterday

first mechanic $2000 (ripped me blind):-/ replaced 1 piston and ring due to low compression on 1 pot. ..

engine went like a charm before i took it to him other then the fact it was a little hard to start first up or after i had been drifting for a while

anyway it came back worse then before plus would not go into reverse and then had spark issues neither which was a problem before.. response was to old just get new motor

took it to another mechanic on beenleigh/kingston rd

result

first mechanic put carby back together wrong

fuel was only going to one bank of the v6

wires in wrong spot on cdi pack and he
retarded the timing so far back it was a wonder it was running at all.. so the old girl was only running on 3 cyclinders which 2 only had full constant spark

in short 2 men spent all day friday sorting out all the first guys stuff up and now its first start every time just like a new one :D charged me 500 including a cdi pack(felt like hugging them)

here is some of the things to check for (most be covered here already in think)

primer bulb
check feul lines for spits or sucking air
plugs
timing
fuel filter
pump and diaphram

now the nasties
stator
trigger
cdi packs
compression
crank shaft seals( this will cause poor vacum on downstroke which will stop correct amount of fuel from entering cyclinder..hard to start

old johno's have a habbit when being reved hard for to long of dropping a small pinn which holds the piston ring in place the ring the gets caught by the valve which then gets smashed between the head and piston

the outboard mechanic at beenleigh was recommend to me by previous owner and he now has all my business even though this means driving an hour from the gold coast to take it to him.
i was told that he was a wiz with old motors and they definately proved that.

not to mention fair in thier pricing( i think they felt sorry for me once they seen what the other mongrel done here on the gold coast

great mechanic ++++ mark 38058595 at beenleigh/kingston rd

tell him allan with the 18ft cruisecraft recommended him

anyone wants names of the other poor excuse for a mechanic pm me

[Splash]

Many thanks Allan,

Woudl love to meet you rmechanic but I am 'stranded' in in GOVE.

How can I tel lif my crank shaft seal is gone?

Good on you for not succumbing to the 'get a new engine' comment.

Splash

[Montague]

I have the sevice manual manual which covers your model, i will scan the page and email it to you if you like seems fairly tech but there is a test

[Splash]

pm sent................