Boat flooring

[Splash]

Team.

Here is a summary of thougts I have collected from this forum about fastening carpets onto ply. Would love some new thoughts..


Marine Ply Treatment

· Take care if using lanolin, as glue doesnt like it. Glue on the velcroe first.

· Treat edges/faces of ply with lanolin. This will protect the ply.

· Then paint it with oil base paint (Paving Paint).

· Flowcoat floor( Gelcoat + Styrene)


Carpet

· Ensure carpet shag is layed in direction of pile for easy cleaning.

· Use ribbed carpet.

· Use rubber backed, blue outdoor carpet from Clarke rubber.
Its cheaper, and magic to use.

· Use cricket pitch matting, the peg down type.


Attaching Carpet

· Selleys contact cement to fix down 100mm strips of heavy duty velcroe.

· As outdoor carpet is rubber backed, the glue sticks extremely well.


· Use small SS screws with SS cup washers – not high enough to stick out.

· Secure with c/sunk head SS screws/self tappers & raised/cup washer.

· 3-4mm thick x 25/50mm strips of aly - cut to length/width of floor.
Screw strips down onto carpet and into timber floor with SS round h ead screws. The 3 mm thickness allows it to snug itself into the carpet, not causing injury.

· Glue non - pretty carpet ( that is a flat pile ) to marine ply and then fit Marine carpet to size. The carpet over carpet is very stable. Won't roll or lift under normal circumstances but with cushioning effect of a double carpet later.


Any further/new thoughts/recs would be appreciated on how I should fix my carpet.


Splash!

[snelly1971]

Hi Splash....Bondcrete would probably be a better product for treating the marine ply.....cheers Mick

[Splash]

Thanks Snelly - Why Bondcrete?

[snelly1971]

I am a carpenter by trade and we have always used it to seal up marine ply...It is a very good product...It lasts and is very easy to apply....

Cheers Mick

[Splash]

Great thanks Mick.

Will Bunnings stock it?

When I seal with Bondcrete, should I still apply lanolin over ply in the first instance - prior to Bondcrete?

Also, do u use carpet, if so, how do u fasten it onto your ply?

Splash

[dnej]

Splash,
12 mm structural play, uses water proof glue,(from your hardware) is great to use,and cheaper than marine branded ply.
Lanolin is oil based from sheep,gets right in to the ply,and protects the timber,and can only be overpainted with oil base exterior paint or paving paint.It protects very well, and I can say from experience.

Mine is fixed with velcroe.I glued it on with contact cement, as you have mentioned.I used outdoor carpet,from Clarke rubber.

David

[Dan5]

I used bondcrete to glue carpet down once it didnt last the first time i washed the boat out it went all soggy and came off.Bondwell contact adheasive is the go its cheaper than sellys and u can get it at nubbings.I"ve always used epidure to seal the ply u can spill fuel and allsorts of crap on it and keeps on stickin.Fold the carpet over the edges by about 30mm or so and staple ,you should be able to buy ally or stainless staples at nubbings also.I"ve re floored/made about 25 or so boats the oldest now is about 8yrs no worries in fact the carpet is worn out.

[Splash]

Can i still use Bondcrete on ply after lanolin has been applied to it as a 'first' coat?

[juju]

This is the best way to go with the ply...


Cellavit Wood Preservatives and Water Repellants are designed for the protection of untreated timbers, or those timbers which are to be left unpainted. Examples include Western Red Cedar, Oregon, Cypress, Softwoods, Hardwoods (such as Brush-box, Spotted Gum, Kwila etc), Plywoods and other such composite boards. When used as directed it actively protects timber from rot and decay by keeping moisture out of the timber.

Cellavit Products work by the fact that the carrier n the product (or solvent) helps deposit the waxes and resins into the cell structure of the timber before volitilizing off. This forms a barrier, which controls the movement of moisture in and out of the timber. By controlling the moisture content of your timber you have virtually controlled most problems associated with timber, including decay and insect attack.

The repeated wetting and drying of timber alternatively causes timber to swell and shrink. In time, this process will result in dimensional changes in timber, commonly known as warping, splitting, grain raising, surface checking, splintering and cupping.

Cellavit Products comply with AS1607 and reduce moisture content by 85%.

[Splash]

Wow - all these alternative methods of sealing ply is amazing!

[Wayne_Red]

Hi splash
You said in your post yesterday your boat is a 530 SL haines? Why does it have a raw plywood floor and not a fibreglass over ply floor? Has it had the floor replaced and not finished off properly?
I have ribbed marine carpet i my boat, no rubber backing. Dries out very well after hosing and wears very well. Not expensive, I bought it from a carpet shop. About $100 for my 445
Regards Wayne

[Splash]

Thanks for your post Wayne.

All original ply floor does have a coating of fiberglass on it I think.

I guess what I am interested in is sealing a piece of new ply (19mm form ply from Bunnings - the very heavy/expensive stuff) I am using as a removable floor panel to cover my new underfloor fuel tank....


Why u use ribbed marine carpet wo rubber backing?
Have you glued 100% or velcored yours in/on?

Splash

[krazyfisher]

have a glassed in floor well most of it the center is removable so you can get to the fuel tank I have cut out standard marine carpet and it just sits in place. I have had no problems with it moving as it is a perfect fit

[krazyfisher]

does anyone have trouble with the rubber backing coming off and sticking to the floor?

[Splash]

how big is your tank Krazy?

[krazyfisher]

5.4mtrs and the carpet would be about 3.5-4mtrs long

[Splash]

Thanks.

I just spent day scraping off old glue from floor and cutting another hole in the floor for underfloor storage. ELBOW grease, wire brush and patience for the glue!

What should I treat the bear wood (edges of exposed raw wood of floor) with after cutting this new hatch?

Splash

Splash

[Wayne_Red]

[QUOTE][I guess what I am interested in is sealing a piece of new ply (19mm form ply from Bunnings - the very heavy/expensive stuff) I am using as a removable floor panel to cover my new underfloor fuel tank....
/QUOTE]
Fair enough splash. I replaced the floor hatches in a old seafarer i once had with 19mm form ply. Sealed them off with flowcoat as i was doing up the inside at the time and had plenty. I also carpeted the floor and hatches in that boat (glued with contact cement) On the hatches i screwed 20mm aluminium angle around the edges of the hatches, it stopped the carpet lifting and protected the edges and finished it off nice. Also fitted chromed flush mounted ring pulls to the hatches.
Another boat i had, i replaced the floor with good quality 20m ply. I just painted it with a few coats of surplus house paint, kept it fr another 5 years and it was still fine when i sold it. I put the same ribbed carpet in that boat that i now have in my 445. Didn't even glue it down, it just sat there.
Regards Wayne

[gavsgonefishing]

Wow - all these alternative methods of sealing ply is amazing!

There is only one way to do it properly if the ply is to live in a boat with salt or fresh water.

Make sure the ply has all the holes and the size right for fittingand finish or round all the edges off

Sand the ply back with a very rough grade then seal it with poly resin ( not a hot brew). this can be done with a brush.

Then lay at least one, best two of 450 grade chop. take particular care of the edges. The first layer make sure your round it over. After the first layer, let it go off and trim the edges and any rough bits. If you have done a little fibreglassing before there wont be a prob. Put the second layer on after a light sand. Both sides need to be done for that complete seal.

Another sand after the second has gone off then on with the flowcoat ( again bothsides.

No probs.

If this part is structural and you are adding 2 x 450, you can actually go down to 9 ply and you can save on the expense on the marine ply

Bondcrete etc are great for what they are designed for, but not in a long term marine application

[Wayne_Red]

Any pictures of the hole splash?
If you cut a new hole in the floor and going to make a new storage area, I would finish the hole off with timber or ply and fully fibreglass it into the floor. The floor is the boats floatation if you go belly up and if you cut a new hole in it it still has to maintain the integrity of a sealed floor.
Regards Wayne

[Splash]

Thanks Gav.

The faces of the ply I bought is painted with a black smooth paint of something - What do I do about this? Do I treat these painted with poly resin?

Splash

[Splash]

Wayne,

Re: new hole - how would I finish the hole off with timber or ply/fully fibreglass it into the floor ?

Do u mean create a box and fiberglass it, then insert it into the the underfloor area?

Splash
Splash

[Wayne_Red]

Splash
The floor of your boat is plywood covered in fibreglass. Your new hole needs to be the same. Without seeing some photos of what you are trying to do. I assume when you cut the floor out you can now see the bottom of the hull and if you look in there you could see some stringers.
You can make a box, insert it and secure it, then fibreglass it all (bottom and sides) bringing the fibreglass up the inside of your box and onto the existing floor, giving you an air tight seal. Before you insert your box I would seal the outside of it with resin only, no matt (you would be using it on the inside anyway) this will give the outside of the box some protection over time from water/moisture under the floor
Don't cut throught the stringers if they are in the way. Your storage area will have to be betweeen the stringers.
Hope this helps. Some pics would be nice.
Wayne

[Splash]

ok thanks - stand by

[gavsgonefishing]

sand all paint and crap off the ply, the resin will have a better change of adhere.

I find that resin by itself willl eventually crap as it in not very good at flexing. The ply will flex with moisture but the resin doesnt. This is why I suggest at least one layer of 450, giving you extra support, strength flex and piece of mind. The in the hull part is probably the worst area for moisture and humidity, so IMHO you require the chop.

Gav

[Splash]

Thanks Gav.

Waht u mean - "so IMHO you require the chop"?

Splash

[gavsgonefishing]

I believe it is best to lay the chopstrand on the resin for longitivity of the modification

Ga

[Splash]

Thansk Gav.

As promised, some photos - now before you voice your deep concerns over the quality of workmanship, I have just cut this hole and nowhere near finished OK.. :-)

And, those two(2) smaller holes you see were made by the previous owner - I am not very happy abou these holes being there either!

I intend to place a hard plastic off-the-shelf flip top lid pver the top of this hole.

I also would like to make more use of the hole by making the internal space larger (and not installing a wall from the top edge of the hole) - but not cut more floor out...

Thoughts are aprreciated.


Splash

[Wayne_Red]

Splash, how big is the hole? and where is it in the boat? It looks like it is in the centre on the boat, i can see some toes in one picture. You were talking about a new fuel tank, is it going to go in this hole?
Wayne

[Splash]

Wayne - Hole is 570mm long by 270 wide by about 200mm deep to bottom of hull.

This hole is in front of the boat (well not quite but it starst at same dim at steering wheel and goes towards front of boat by 570mm).

That other hole you see - where my toes are - is the beginning of the hole for the new fuel tank - going back towards transom 1075mm longitudinally. I should add that this hole floor part is raised about 110mm above that hole in front...


Splash

[disorderly]

smelly,

Is this Haines ever actually going to be used as a fishing boat or is it a project for perpetuity.I am amazed(and somewhat impressed) at the amount of work and mods you are doing on it.
But you need to get it sorted,mate.
Mackeral season is just starting and us fisho's need to be able to take advantage of the rare windless days to get stuck into them.
good luck
Scott

[Splash]

No probs mate - that about sums it up I reckon and I agree. It does spend more time on land. I have done alot of work to it since I got it 15 months ago. It has been a project for some time I must admit and weather has not really been that kind for boating in last few months..

But, the time will come shortly when I will be boating regularly in comfort and style. Until then, another HOLE to fill!

Splash/Smelly