Fuel Tanks and Boat Flooring

[Splash]

Hi Team!

I have space for a stainless steel tank 1075 long x 375 wide x 260 deep.

Woudl anyone liek to sugest a link or 2 to any Australian supplier of SS fuel tanks that can fit this window?

Also, I have pulled off old (circa 1989) marine carpet from my 530 SL Haines. Best way to remove the left over glue and crap stuck on the marine ply floor from this carpet?

And, I have read other opinions about carpet vs non slip paint (sand impregnation) - what do u rec. and why?

Splash!

[snelly1971]

Why dont you ring around and get a price on a aluminium fuel made to suit..The SS one are very expensive....Cheers Mick

[Splash]

Thanks mate.

What grade and thickness Aly should I be using?

How does the Aly material cope as a petrol container?

Splash?

[Splash]

Does carpet with velcro bubble up where it is not velcroed?

Splash

[snelly1971]

Most plate boats that i have seen ..including mine are fitted with aluminium underfloor fuel tanks...They make great fuel tanks....
3mm should be fine but personally i would go for 4mm...cheers Mick

[Splash]

Thanks Mick.

Any good fuel tank builders you know of?

What grade aly shoudl be used?

Splash

[snelly1971]

Nearly any custom boat builder would be able to knock you one up....where are you ?????.....Use the highest grade aly you can get...

Cheers Mick

[PADDLES]

splash, i went through this exercise a few months ago. a few kind guys from ausfish offered to weld me one up in alloy which was great, but at the end of the day they were a fair way away and so it was easier to get a local guy to do it. cost $500 for 1500x550x300 with a new sender. this was in 3mm but 4 or 5 would have been better, at least on the top, for mine because it's part of the floor in a signature. 20-20 hindsight here.

[Splash]

Thanks Paddles.

Snelly - I am in Cairns.

[Splash]

What is a good fuel sender I should be using?

[peterbo3]

What is a good fuel sender I should be using?

None. They are not reliable & always (well, nearly always) stuff up. Either the sender or the gauge. The easiest way out is to have a filler cap directly under the floor with an inspection port over that. You check your fuel level with a length of alloy or wood graduated to show fuel remaining in the tank.
No more dramas with airlocks when you are filling the tank & the dipstick cannot clap out. ;D ;D ;D ;D

But it is a good idea to make a spare dipstick & keep it on the boat in a safe place in case you lose the main dipstick. Do not ask me how I know this. ::)

[snelly1971]

Buy yourself a navman fuel flow meter.....

Cheers Mick

[Splash]

Thnaks boys.

What's this i hear about airlocks in tanks?

What criteria should I consider for fuel tank design - such as baffles, airlocks, etc..

Splash.

[peterbo3]

The airlocks occur in the fill tube due to a number of factors. Breather too small or in the wrong spot. Filler hose too small. Sharp turns on the filler hose. Poor tank design, etc, etc.
Baffles are a must to limit the sloshing of fuel in the tank. They also strengthen the tank. An alloy boat builder will know how to do the job. I have used Ark Marine at Virginia for quite a few SS & alloy mods. But I have just noticed that you are in Cairns. Bit far to travel.:D :D

[PADDLES]

splash, for your boat the tank will probably be running lengthways in the centre of the boat. make sure there's a breather for the front of the tank to get rid of the airlock created when the boat sits up at the front on the trailer when you fill it. also get a breather at the rear of the tank. the guy who built the tank for mine forgot to put in the front breather so now i've got to unhook the trailer and drop the trailer on the ground at the servo so it'll fill properly. not happy jan!

[Splash]

Tahnsk for input Paddles and Peter. Very valuable info.

Yes, tank will be longitudinal.

Dropping trailer on ground to fill tank must SUCK big time!

Splash

[Dan5]

Go see Marcell at cairns custom craft he knows what he's doin even make ya a whole boat .Don't go navman just another $300+ bucks ya don"t need to spend go the dipstick method with filler on the floor keep it simple .

[fez]

Splash,

A couple of options for Cairns would be to see Dave at Quay marine, but they use a welder down the back streets of Westcourt (near Tolly's Signs) can't be sure of the name I think it was Don Buchannan????. Other wise Norweld would be the go (may be more expensive though)

Cheers,
Fez

Or as the above option Cairns Custom Craft would be another good option.

[Wayne_Red]

Re carpet.
If you go with carpet again it will save you a lot of hassle cleaning off all of the old glue. I would give it a scrape with a paint scraper to get the loose stuff off, clean the floor with some tinners or similar and glue the new carpet down with contact cement.
Go with one of the heavier carpets (thicker) if you velcro it it will no not bubble. I had mine glued down when i first put it down but had to lift it for floor repair. When i put it back down i didn't glue it again and it doesn't moove. It will shrink a little over time it it is not glued or fastened somehow.
Personally it would not have a painted or flowcoated floor again. Too slipery when you get fish blood and guts on it and toooo hot on your bare feet in summer.
Aluminium tank is the go, I've build quite a few 3mm is ok. Your total available space you quoted is 104 litres
Regards Wayne

[Deiter]

None. They are not reliable & always (well, nearly always) stuff up. Either the sender or the gauge. The easiest way out is to have a filler cap directly under the floor with an inspection port over that. You check your fuel level with a length of alloy or wood graduated to show fuel remaining in the tank.
No more dramas with airlocks when you are filling the tank & the dipstick cannot clap out. ;D ;D ;D ;D

But it is a good idea to make a spare dipstick & keep it on the boat in a safe place in case you lose the main dipstick. Do not ask me how I know this. ::)

Ha ha, I wonder!!!! LOL:D :D

[Splash]

Thanks for tips guys - will try those ocntacts out tomorrow and Sid Fishes is also going to give a quote.

I have already bought the Navman fuel 3100 - so woudl liek to incorporate this into the system somehow..

SPlash.

[krazyfisher]

the navman will be money well spent and easy to use and hook up

[ozscott]

The alloy tanks in my seafarer vagabond must be 30 years or so old and I emptied them and flushed them when I got it and inspected them and they seem very good. I managed to snap off part of the external breather pipe (3 inches of alloy) but left enough to get a rubber fuel hose on! The point is that they seem to last and I cannot see the benefit in stainless for such an application, but maybee someone who knows more about these things can add to the discussion, as opposed to just anecdotal stuff.

Cheers

[ozscott]

I have the navman transducer and seperate guage - its a great bit of kit, just make sure you mount it upwards and snug so it cant flop about - the fitting directions were excellent. One of the best features is the instant fuel flow and the low fuel alarm that you can program to whatever remaining litres you want

[Splash]

Thanks boys.

OzScott - when u say "mount it upwards and snug so it cant flop about.." - what do u mean and what equipment ar eu referring to?


Splash

[ozscott]

sorry mate - not making myself clear. The Navman transducer needs to be mounted vertical...the direction of the arrow on the transducer is the direction of flow and it should be straight up. I mounted mine with nig P clamps against the bulkead under the transom.

Cheers

[Splash]

Thanks Scott