Trailer Lights

[jerson]

I've got bell type trailer lights on my trailer. Is it possible to get new inserts for these lights as the existing ones are corroded causing poor earth with both blinker & lights blinking when both lights are on. Is it worth repairing these lights or replacing them with sealed submersibles. Has anyone used the new LED lights.

Jerson

[finga]

If possible go LED (they're brilliant if installed properly) if they're not possible go submersible.
The old lights are not worth fixing I'm afraid.

[Awesome]

L E D everytime. Put them on once & forget about them.

[Wayne_Red]

I have had "submerse-a-light" lights on my trailer for the last 5-6 years, not one problem. @ $70/pair. Your are not worth repair, probably can't buy parts even if your wanted to repair.
wayne

[Roughasguts]

Submersibles are alright but before you sink them, put vasalene on the rubber seals. I'm also around 6 years with them.

[Poodroo]

Scalem has a trailer for wrecking or rebuild if you are interested. Trailer still has good Holden 13" rims + spare, perfect condition submersible lights, jocky wheel, etc. Give him a PM. Ideally he would like to sell the whole thing but may consider selling the lights separately. Can't hurt to ask him.

Poodroo

[jerson]

If possible go LED (they're brilliant if installed properly) if they're not possible go submersible.
The old lights are not worth fixing I'm afraid.

Mate,
When you say if there installed properly, do you mean by an auto electrian or can they be DIY.
I think BCF have LED's on special around $79, is that about right.

Jerson

[BM]

Make sure if installing LED lights that you SOLDER and HEATSHRINK your connections otherwise they will fail at some time.

[phewy]

Make sure if installing LED lights that you SOLDER and HEATSHRINK your connections otherwise they will fail at some time.

Great suggestion with the heatshrink Nick.
Just might add.....make sure the stuff you use is good quality stuff, such as 3M, not some el cheapo $2 shop or "Crazy Clints Warehouse" junk that may not be as UV resistant. Especially in situations where the joints are subjected to the suns rays. Some stuff will only last mere months before becoming brittle and disintegrating.

Even better would be to use the heat shrink with resin inbuilt to completely waterproof the joint when applied.

[finga]

Great suggestion with the heatshrink Nick.
Just might add.....make sure the stuff you use is good quality stuff, such as 3M, not some el cheapo $2 shop or "Crazy Clints Warehouse" junk that may not be as UV resistant. Especially in situations where the joints are subjected to the suns rays. Some stuff will only last mere months before becoming brittle and disintegrating.

Even better would be to use the heat shrink with resin inbuilt to completely waterproof the joint when applied.
And I'll just add use the stuff with the resin in it even if the joint is not going to be under water. Cost a little more but worth it's weight in gold by keeping the moisture out.
If you can't get it send me a PM and I'll put some in the post.

[searchinthebay]

I have a set of submersable trailer lights with 5 core cable and 7 pin round plug if you are interested. Only been used on the trailer to move it to the gold coast and bac to cleveland, so they are practically brand new. $40 for the lot. give me a PM if interested

[searchinthebay]

sorry forgot to say they are submersable LEDs

[phewy]

LED's? That there be a big bargain bonus for someone. 8-)

[jerson]

BCF LED trailer lights, that are on special, don't have a number plate light & don't say they are submersible, just weather & water resistant.

Jerson

[Grand_Marlin]

I use crimped heat shrink joiners - crimp first then heat shrink with a heat gun.
They also have a resin inside that makes them awesomely waterproof 8-)

With lights ... dont be miserable when it comes to getting good quality ... do them once and do them properly and they will last as long as the trailer

Cheers

Pete