Has anyone changed trailer brake pads?

[ozscott]

Hey all.

I have a home built trailer with the loose caliper salt water style breaks. The pads are getting down. Are they difficult to change? Has anyone got any tips (apart from irrigating the bolts in CRC or similar before attempting the jobby?

Cheers

[whiteman]

If I can do it anyone can. CRC is the best tip and use quality tools that won't bend when you try and get that really stubborn nut off. Ideally you have the boat off the trailer when you do it but not possible in my case. If in doubt about getting it all back together once you've dismantled, take a few digi photos before starting.

[finga]

And do one side at a time so you can see how they are supposed to be.

[mromanis]

Hi Ozscott,
Did this myself for the first time back in January.
Make sure you chock the stationary wheels/wheel before you attempt to do anything, because you will have to release the brake to do any servicing. In the caliper there are two sliding metal tubes that ride over the bolts connecting the caliper to the hub. It is a good idea to remove these,clean and lube the slide mechanism as this is what keeps the pads centered on the disk. Be careful when using using CRC, or RP7, that you don't leave a lot of residue on the disk. The reason for this is that the first test drive you do will ressult in a lot of smoke coming from your wheels at the disk heats up under braking. Had me worried for a moment until I worked it out, thought a bearing was failing. Also, and I don't know how correct this is, but I have been told that letting light oiling agents burn onto the disk has a carbonising effect that can reduce braking efficiency. Don't know how true that is, but figured it would not hurt to follow that one.

[ozscott]

thanks very much fellas - I will report back

[Greg P]

A very little bit of never seize on the caliper retaining bolts is good for next time but you will need to replace the bolts eventually as they will rust once a spanner has gone over them.

Remember to back off the cable adjustment too before you start or the air will be a bit blue once you try to put the calipers back over the disc (make sure the disc is OK - it may need machining and if it does you may as well do the wheel bearings)

[Spaniard_King]

Greg I use a mobile brake machinist to my brake calipers $40.00 to do them on the trailer (you have to remove the calipers for him for this price tho)

Make sure you grease the caliper slides well as this is parramount for the brakes to work correctly.

cheers

Garry

[BM]

Brake pad changing handy hint no.1: after you wrestle the bottom caliper bolt out (usually tight against the springs) grind about 3mm from it before attempting to reinstall..

[BM]

Handy hint no.2: if the caliper pad clearance adjusting bolt is tight and won't move do not force it. Apply heat from an oxy or a gas blowtorch on your bbq bottle and it will free up. Otherwise your up for a new caliper.

[BM]

Handy hint no.3: buy your pads from an auto parts supplier like Bursons etc etc. Write this down for future reference: "1028" thats the pad number and they will start at about $25

[BM]

Handy hint no.4: A reputable trailer repair place I know doesn't bother resurfacing discs by machining. They use a 9 inch angle grinder to flat off the discs. When I asked why so the answer I received was "In salt water they will be rusted to buggery within 12 months, so there is no point". Make of that whatever you please, but this is from a large and very busy trailer repair business...

[bootyinblue]

Handy Hint no:5 Take your whole set up to your mates place and let him do it for you....