fibre glass stringers

[oldie]

would anyone know if the easyrider 5.1m runabout im currently doing up, is a newer model cos it has fibreglass stringers in the mould, i am replacing one side of the floor and about to rip transom off and replace, why they didnt laminat both sides of ply back then has me buggard!! it has a peice of 4mm stainless alloy bracing accross the transom obviously cos its been getting weaker for a while or maybe to uprate the transom cos its solid alloy, but the top left of transom is soft around the ski hook, isn it worth fixing the transom or would someone tell me whether it may be fine for a few years?? i am planning on keeping boat for a while as is perfect for my needs, and have good 90hp envinrude for it! i just cant find the same boat as mine anywhere?
attached is photo of transom, if someone has good advice id apprechiate it, thanks
p.s i have already done trailer, taken windsceen and other fittings off, just waiting on some time off to do the floor and transom.

maybe someone could tell me if i was to strip back the transom and prep it, how much someone would charge to put new one on, just want it strong so it doesnt fall of first outing!!
Mick

[jimbo59]

G'day oldie are you in the brisbane area,i'm on the southside at logan that's what we do floors stringers and transoms,if you want to chip out all the old ply out and grind the glass flat it will save you some pennys but your gunna get real itchy:D Have you already cut the deck?Are you going to put the deck back on yourself?If you have cut the deck and are putting it on yourself it will be around $750.00.

[SO70]

if you are a bit of a handyman i'd have a go at doing the transom yourself.
just make sure you do it from the inside.
its the easiest and the strongest way.
i'd also cut through the deck about 300-500mm in front of the outboard well and remove it to gain full access to the inside of the transom.

[SO70]

jimbo59, can you give a breakdown of what you get for $750.
Labour, plywood, resin, glass etc. costing.

[oldie]

when you say cut the deck you mean outboard well? i have no probs doing this, just wondering how to go about glassing it back on? is it easy using a filler bog and glass/resin, or is there something else you do, i am a novice but have general boating background after selling haines hunters and quinnies and yammies for a few years, and have repaired surfboards all my life, so i understand the whole glassing process, my only concern is the transom being strong so to take my motor and aux bracket ladder etc, is fixing it from outside out of the question, i have read in secondhand boat workshop how he does the transom from the outside, and has never had any problems, this way seems straight forward?
thanks for the info
oldie

[jimbo59]

I won't cut it out from the back i know its quicker but i just don't believe it to be strong enough.It's around $750.00 for what your asking that includes labour and materials,but you do; as i said the r@r on the deck.

[clownman]

hi every one i am new to the boating world and i have cut the back out of my transom i have also ripped all the wood out and have just got the glass and resin to put it all back in. ill let you know how i go , ill be running an old johno 115 on the back ill see if i can take some photos too, this is my first time with a boat and the first time glassing but well see i am pretty cluey but i think i already regret not doing it from the inside ahwell well see

[fishingjew]

hi every one i am new to the boating world and i have cut the back out of my transom i have also ripped all the wood out and have just got the glass and resin to put it all back in. ill let you know how i go , ill be running an old johno 115 on the back ill see if i can take some photos too, this is my first time with a boat and the first time glassing but well see i am pretty cluey but i think i already regret not doing it from the inside ahwell well see

You should have gone from the inside it would be more structurally sound I hope you have a least left a lip on the back of transom to taper the glass to :o

[BM]

There is no strength difference from going from the inside versus the outside. I know a number of guys who do it either way depending on the hull.

In fact, a better bond between the transom timber and the outer laminate of the hull is achieved by cutting the back out and then vaccuum bagging the laminate to the new transom timber. Otherwise its a case of lots of extremely large clamps to reach from splashwell to bottom of transom (if doing from the inside).

But either way achieves the same aim.

[SO70]

doing a transom from the inside is the only way to do it.
there is more bonding surface area for the ply to get affixed to.

[blaze]

I just as well add my 2 bobs worth.
IMO repairing the transom from the inside is the correct and stronger method of repair. Remove outboard well and side coamings and also the last 300 to 400mm of floor (this also lets you asatain the condition of the stringers) Remove inner skin on the transom, remove all old timber. Now fit your new transom and make sure you use good long U clamps and wedges to get the new transom and old rear skin well fixed with now air gaps. When laying the new glass onto the timber I always layup 300mm along the sides and the hull and stringers. Another good tip is to remove all timber around the drain bung and replace with qcell, that will remove any chance of water ingressing through the bung into the new timber.
cheers
blaze