How to keep hydaulic trailer brake in good condition?

[Chimo]

Just wondering what people are doing to look after their hydraulic trailer brakes. It seems that the first time you immerse them in sea water they are out of warranty and start to self destruct soon after.

I know that in hindsight I should have got stainless steel or bronze or what ever but are they any better? Someone said they are too slippery and don't stop you any way, any truth in that?

Anyhow I'd be interested to hear your thoughts.

Leaving the boat in storage as an option doesn't appeal either, boats, I always thought, were a bit like model aircraft, half the fun is what you do to the boat betweeen trips.

Thanks

Cheers
Chimo

[the_bomber]

Hi Chimo
I ruined quite a few trips with seizing brakes and no matter how soon I washed them in fresh and sprayed them with all concoctions known to man the y would still seize. I believe half the problem is the caliper design which is so crap it cannot be used on a vehicle but is used on trailers. Apparently OK if not submerged which defeats the purpose on a boat trailer but is OK for a caravan.

I took the plunge and forked out for the stainless brakes which required some minor modification for the mounts and now I do not have a worry. They have shown no sign of seizing and have taken the misery out of boat trailing. It is expensive but better than selling the boat which is where I was getting to I was so frustrated.
Do it and you will forget about those brakes altogether.
Cheers
Rob

[Chimo]

Hi Rob

What components of your system are stainless?
Can you still use the normal rotor?
What sort of pads do you use?

How much, approx for a dual axle setup?

Thanks

Chimo

[Kerry]

It's really not a big drama! Hydraulic will last for years and years.

Throw out the steel pistons and replace with SS. You won't buy them but can be made.
Throw away the gun metal slide pins and replace with brass.
Throw away the slide pin rubber boots, waste of space.
Lube the slide pins with nickel anti-sieze, caliper compound is a waste of time.


Regards, Kerry.

[Chimo]

Hi Kerry

Thanks for the info.
I assume this is what you have done to yours that I assume you drown regularly?


Cheers

Chimo

[the_bomber]

Hi Chimo
I went the whole hog buying calipers and rotors. Pads are normal.
I I had s/s pistons in my previous brakes and it made no difference. The pistons kept sticking out regardless of change of seals etc. Tried a lot of things and now I do nothing other than a wash like the rest of the trailer. The prices are on their web site www.titanbrakes.com (http://www.titanbrakes.com) It certainly adds up when you get 4 of everything though

[Kerry]

I I had s/s pistons in my previous brakes and it made no difference.

How do you mean made no difference? Surely the fact of not having to change rusted pistons, reaming out seals every 12 months at about 20 bucks a pop each (1994 prices) plus the time, energy and all the other stuff that goes with overhauling brakes every 12 months must make a difference?

Are you sure it was the pistons causing the issue as one of the biggest bugs with calipers in water is those totally useless gun metal slide pins and useless rubber boots that let the water in and then keep it in.

If you can't grab the caliper assembly and rattle it anytime then it is usually bound up in the slide pins. Haven't removed my pistons since 1994, since replaced with SS and since replacing those gun metal slide pins (with brass) there has not been any issues with caliper siezure. None what so ever.

Regards, Kerry.

[the_bomber]

Fair enough Kerry
I only had the s/s pistons and the other things you have done are probably the go. I have no technical expertise but did all the things that I had read but had not heard of what you did all together.
I was going to chuck it in I was so P&##ed off with it happening so much. What your suggesting seems cheaper. I am relating my experience and it worked much to my relief and joy.
The bugger of it all is that you have to find these things out the hard way.The trailer does not come from the manufacturer that way nor does the dealer warn you. It takes the joy out of it finding out the inconvenient and expensive way. I guess that is why a forum like this is so good and we are prepared to share hard won knowledge.
Cheers Rob

[Kerry]

Rob, Yes I know where you are coming from and did not find out about the availability of the brass slide pins until quite some time after making the SS pistons. Back then the length of 21/4" solid round SS was $90 and $60 to machine 4 off.

Until the slide pins were replaced one still had to live with pulling the complete caliper off every 12 months and dealing to the cruded slide pins. If left longer than 12 months (as did occur once) it took some rather tough measures to free the dam things. It was this instance where I had to destroy the pins to extract them that it came to light there were now brass versions available. Since then no problems at all. Had my brakes off a month or so ago, first time in 4 years, all simply come apart with no drama's.

One other thing I do is spray the whole caliper/disc assembly with CRC (use a pump up garden spray with wand etc), more so for the steel discs. First 100 metres out of the shed there's a bit of a hot smell but doesn't take long to settle down.

Regards, Kerry.

[Grunter71]

Chimo, I had the same dilemna as you. I was able to replace the cast iron calipers with stainless ones.

I got mine from Al-Ko.

The whole unit is stainless. The only thing to watch out for is the bolts that attach it to the axle and backing on the disc pad as these will still rust. However, they are fairly easy to replace when required.

[Chimo]

Thanks to all for your comments.

A few things to follow up!

Cheers

Chimo

[Black_Jack]

Hi Chimo

How have you gone with your brakes


geoff

[Chimo]

Hi BJ / Geoff

At this stage have left brakes as standard but intend to look at an update along the lines that Kerry has described with
SS pistons out of 2 1/4" solid round SS
brass slide pins
Possibly also spray the caliper/disc assembly with CRC for the steel discs but I have been using lanoc with metho and it seems to have stuffed the rubbers that let the old set up seize up.

Again with advice from Ausfishers (Kerry I think) rubber seals may be more of a hinderance than a help.

Obviously the total SS or bronze setup would be the optimum if money were no object, and I didn't have to get a set of new tyres for the tandem trailer.

A vote of thanks to all of you for your input to this and a very big thanks to Seafarer at Mermaid Beach.

I know their after sales service is good but this time their after sales service has extended to a 1997 boat as they have loaned me a works trailer to store my Vag on while the brakes are fixed and the tyres are replaced.

Its amazing how a boat trailer bounces and shakes even at low speed around town with the boat off when the tyres (Nankang 8 plys) delaminate or whatever tyres that split and go out of round is called. Not at all obvious when the boat is weighing the trailer down! As Nankang people are not being helpful there will be another brand going on from my trusty fisherman / tyre man who keeps coming up with the well priced tyres for mr Ford the Patrol and now the trailer too.

So Geoff, and others who may be interested, thats how we have gone. Once again amazing how a little job turns into a production so that once more we understand the meaning of the word B O A T "Bring out another thousand", shame it tends to be so true.

Got to love it tho!!!

Cheers

Chimo