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View Full Version : Floor Modification Layout - Haines



Barnacle Billy
05-02-2007, 10:38 PM
OK Guys - Most of u knew the floor layour of my Haines before..

SOme major work now progressed and I want to show you what has been done.

Before SHot - Back to Back Seats and crammed for space BIG TIME!
After Shot - Pedestal Seats and Tonnes of ROOM!

PS - That bare area u see used to have carpet on it and around the back to back seats. All same floor - bare and carpet areas..

THanks for your help boys!

Enjoy!

Stuart
05-02-2007, 10:41 PM
Good work mate, though I must say the only thing I dont like is the hatch lide in the middle of the floor. Why don tyou make one that sits flush with the floor instead.

Stu

Barnacle Billy
05-02-2007, 10:47 PM
Great idea stu.

I am thinking of laying carpet over the bare area and trust the carpet thickness makes the hatch lid flush again - THoughts?

Stuart
06-02-2007, 04:17 PM
Do you need the hole in the floor to begine with? If you do then I cant see carpet doing much in the way of making it level. I still think your going to be kicking your tow on that thing. If you can get the top of the hatch level with the top of the floor then it would make for a much cleaner look.

Stu

Barnacle Billy
06-02-2007, 09:00 PM
OK = THanks Stu

Will try and pursue this option. Any ideas on what I can use as a hinged cover plate??

And, should I still lay carpet down?

Barnacle Billy
06-02-2007, 09:02 PM
What can I use that is durable enough to withstand people's weight and lift out like this?

Stuart
06-02-2007, 09:26 PM
What's the go with having it in the middle of te floor.

Stu

Barnacle Billy
06-02-2007, 10:39 PM
That is the original layout circa 1989.

Just been f cking around for last hour on the floor to determine what I can use this underfloor space for - considering space is still a premimum at floor level..???

I have thought about fuel storage, junk storage, live bait tank well or fill up wiht ice and sotre food/drink and bait in it...??

What you think I should do wiht it?

PS - I will be in GOVE NT in a few weeks - so I need to cosnider fishing in the hot tropics..

Eagle
07-02-2007, 12:05 AM
To make the cover as a flush fit, trim the cover to fit the opening. leave a gap to suit your needs if you intend to carpet the cover. Glass in a strip of ply at least 20mm thick that juts out about 25mm all around the opening, This strip is about 100mm wide and is fitted under the edge of the opening to leave a "shelf" all around so the cover can fit in and be flush with the floor. The strip can be screwed as well as glassed to form a strong ledge. With about 3mm gap all round between the cover and the floor, the cover will be a firm fit if covered in carpet and the carpet wraps around the edge of the cover. The cover could be hinged but I wouldn't go this route as there wouldn't be enough support along the hinge side of the cover.
To glass in the strips, lay at least two layers of CSM that are soaked in resin and clamp the strips in place under the foor. The hard part is to clean/sand the underside of the area where the strips are to be glassed. It should be easy with a 100mm grinder and a sanding disc as there apears to be lots of room to get the sander in. A small finger hole in the cover will make it easy to remove or do as I do, all solid cover and prize it up with a knife blade. No holes in the cover means no lost sinkers or swivels.
Eagle

Barnacle Billy
07-02-2007, 05:11 AM
Thanks Eagle.

Q1) What is meant by "trim" when you talk of the cover?
Q2) WOuld this 100mm strip/ledge be strong enough to hold a person's weight?
Q3) How do I blank off the current hinge holes/gaps that exist?
Q4) What do u use your underfloor well for?

THanks

Stuart
07-02-2007, 08:00 AM
Eagle beat me to it.

Stu

Barnacle Billy
07-02-2007, 04:39 PM
No-one has still told me what I should do with the underfloor well.

Would appreciate any assistance before I work on this well..

THanks

Barnacle Billy
07-02-2007, 06:21 PM
Underfloor-well use?

bay_firey
07-02-2007, 06:44 PM
Sme (oops) Billy
Use it for what ever your needs require.

If you are in need of a cool storage space drop in some ice and use it an esky.
If you need some dry storage use it for that.

No - one can really TELL you what to use it for, you know what your needs are better than anyone.

newchum
07-02-2007, 08:05 PM
billy i have V19R haines and my underfloor fuel tank goes from the point froward of your pedistals all the way to the rear seats. 130lts in total. i know one thing that i wouldn't be putting in the well and thats flares and epirb & life jackets. just make your boat to suit your style of fishing.

Barnacle Billy
07-02-2007, 09:23 PM
Thanks guys.

I have been thinking of using it for fuel..

I already have an underfloor fuel tank form rear seat to start of well and thinking of adding in another tank.

Newchum - What sort of fuel tanks did u use and how did u connect them up?
Do u get to use all your fuel or does it become stale if not used ?

DOes fiberglass insulate ice well?

Barnacle Billy
08-02-2007, 07:12 PM
Question - Underneath the recessed area is a whoel heap of fiberglass along length of member. Can I cut this out so I can mount soem angle iron flush onto member - to lay the floor over this recessed gap?

My concerns are loss of strength..

THanks

Barnacle Billy
08-02-2007, 07:24 PM
Here are some photos of what I mean...

I want to screw aluminium angle iron into the longitudinal staunchions of boat so I can rest a cut-out floor panel on top of the angle..

Hence, I need to grind/cut out the bulging fiberglass padding seen in the attached photos..

THoughts?

Barnacle Billy
08-02-2007, 08:24 PM
Can I remove that bulge underneath and still not compromise strength?

blaze
08-02-2007, 08:53 PM
The short answer is no. Thats some of the worst glassing I have seen and haines should be ashame of themself. I think the answer to your problem may be to grind of the flowcoat and glass some 50 x 19mm pine along where you want the strips to support the floor section. It will be a much easier job to do with glass.
cheers
blaze

Barnacle Billy
09-02-2007, 04:37 AM
Thanks Blaze. Were Haines being lazy or were they re-inforcing the strength in that area?

Barnacle Billy
09-02-2007, 05:11 AM
do i grind or sand off the flowcoat?

I take it that you are referring to the underside of the floor?

blaze
09-02-2007, 05:27 AM
the bulge on the side looks to me to be one large section of poorly layed glass that has sagged away from the structure underneath leaving a large airpocket. To do the job right you would need to cut away all the bulging bits and then relay the glass. I am not sugesting you take that job on becassue the deeper you go into a job sometimes you find things you dont want to. What I am sugesting is you clean the flowcoat off by a light sanding and then reglass these new section of timber in using a product like qcell to elelinate any caps and help form a suitable surface to glass over.
cheers
blaze

Mad-One
09-02-2007, 06:36 AM
I would go to a sheetmetal workshop and get them to fold you up some 3mm aluminium into a Z shape and screw it to the floor

Cheers Phil

Mad-One
09-02-2007, 07:14 AM
Like this. Hope the upload works


1300

newchum
09-02-2007, 08:45 PM
billy, the fuel tank i have is a single staino unit it was in the boat when i bought her . and instead of the pedistals i have an icebox under the starboard seat & a 55lt aux. tank under the port seat . most trips i will use close to 150lts . hope this doesn't throw a spanner in the works

Barnacle Billy
09-02-2007, 09:40 PM
Thanks boys - All great and novel ideas...

Blaze - how much mating area should be butted up against underside of floor - from your 50mm x 19mm pine? And, is this any old pine or must it be marine ply type stuff?

Mad-one - do u know anyone who has used the Z-section for this applciation and if so - successful?

Barnacle Billy
09-02-2007, 09:43 PM
Newchum - I am thinkng of going down the fuel tank route.

I am suspecting I will end up with about 200mm - 250mm wide section (after lip taken into account) by 995mm long.

Would this be able to fit in a plastic tank?

Blaze - could I glass in 25mm wiht 15mm as ledge? Do u think 25mm is too less?

BB

newchum
09-02-2007, 09:50 PM
billy i will lift my floor an try to pm you some photos of the tank setup . i also have a boat with twin 100lts tanks i will try and send some of these as well

Barnacle Billy
09-02-2007, 09:56 PM
Thanks Chum!

How narrow can u buy fuel tanks?

blaze
10-02-2007, 05:06 AM
Hi Smelly
that should be ok, you could end up with enough fuel to go for a trip to china, but I dont think you can have to much fuel, plastic tanks come in a lot of different sizes
cheers
blaze

Barnacle Billy
11-02-2007, 02:16 AM
Blaze - how much mating area should be butted up against underside of floor - from your 50mm x 19mm pine? And, is this any old pine or must it be marine ply type stuff?

Roughasguts
11-02-2007, 08:01 AM
Billy Don't think marine ply is the best for glassing, aparently it's got to much oil which is good for painting solvent paint on (bond wood boats) but not great for glass to stick on, or soak in to.

Structual ply I think comes more recomended, for best adhesion.

Barnacle Billy
11-02-2007, 09:48 AM
THanks Blaze - jsu twant to confirm - you mentioned 'pine' before for the strips..

There is pine and there is ply.

Do I use the pine for the 50x19 strips and ply for the floor cutout?

blaze
11-02-2007, 09:58 AM
that will do the trick, RAGS is right about the type of ply
cheers
blaze

Barnacle Billy
11-02-2007, 10:05 AM
THanks Blaze.

Just curious as to why u recommend pine over ply for the strips?

blaze
11-02-2007, 10:55 AM
cheap, easier to access than 19mm ply (unless you have a piece laying round) and when encased in glass no one is the wiser, does the job
cheers
blaze

newchum
11-02-2007, 04:18 PM
billy sorry my camera packed it in , i have taken some shots with my phone and emailed them to myself, will try and resize them and send them to you

Barnacle Billy
11-02-2007, 09:13 PM
Thanks boys.

SO70
12-02-2007, 10:28 PM
the inside walls of the box is actually the stringers.
i would cut the top of the floor out flush with side of the stringer and glass from the top of the floor over the side and down the stringer.
you will end up with an open hole to drop anything into and make any sort of lid to suit

Barnacle Billy
13-02-2007, 02:35 AM
Great thought SO70 - but what about a lip underneath the floor reqd to support a cover - how woudl u incorporate a lip into this idea if you are glassing edge of hole onto stringer?

Barnacle Billy
13-02-2007, 05:17 AM
Do I use a Z-angle or glass in a lip - how to?

luckyone
13-02-2007, 06:00 AM
i had a z section of alliminium in my floor and it woked well in the time i had the boat. so if you go to a alluminium shop you should be able to buy some and solve your problem. chears ;D ;D ;D

Barnacle Billy
14-02-2007, 03:05 PM
Like this. Hope the upload works


1300

Mad-one.

To achieve this Z-section profile, what width should the flat be initially?

PS. I have 12mm floor ply.

Strips come in 50mm, 38mm and 25mm width.

BB

Barnacle Billy
14-02-2007, 04:38 PM
How much (mm) would the bends take up with the 3mm thickness?

Barnacle Billy
14-02-2007, 04:39 PM
I have acquire a 40mm strip and a 50mm strip.

WHich one to use for good strength but alsoo tidy looking and not too big?

Barnacle Billy
14-02-2007, 06:31 PM
How much meat should be on each side of the Z-Section?

Barnacle Billy
14-02-2007, 07:15 PM
I have 3mm flat 40mm wide and 50mm wide.

Which width do I choose?

SO70
14-02-2007, 09:39 PM
if you use z section, a 50mm lip on top would be the go.
you could also make a glass/ply lid that straddles the hole like an esky lid.
you would also require a 50mm x 3-4mm lip.

Barnacle Billy
14-02-2007, 11:19 PM
Thanks alot SO70.

How wide should the bottom lip be?

I have to bend this today (Thursday) at work and need to know dims.

How much should be on the top part of Z-section, middle part and bottom part?

Barnacle Billy
14-02-2007, 11:23 PM
AS I have the floor at 12mm ply, what thickness should the hatch floor be when using the 3mm Z0section?

Barnacle Billy
15-02-2007, 12:32 PM
THoughts on above?

SO70
15-02-2007, 11:44 PM
i have used 19mm ply for all the hatches i have made.
the diminsions would be 50mm top,19mm down (thickness of the ply being used), then say 25-50mm across the bottom of the ply.
the important dimension is the one sitting on top of the floor.
if you are standing on it continually, you want it so that it can handle the weight.
if 50mm looks too much, drop it back to say 40mm.
the hatch thickness doesn't have to be the same as the original floor thickness.
i use 19mm because it will be super strong.

Barnacle Billy
16-02-2007, 06:21 AM
Thanks alot SO70.

I will modify my dwg to suit these dims.

The m/c shops around here are unable to bend ally as it splinters/breaks, etc.

They recommend using SS in a lighter guage - THoughts?

Barnacle Billy
16-02-2007, 06:22 AM
SO70 - How thick is your main floor?

SO70
17-02-2007, 09:18 AM
13mm floor
19mm hatches
3mm stainless should be plenty for for that size hole
have you cut the rest of the floor top out.

Splash
20-03-2007, 11:27 PM
Hi S070.

In terms of corrosion, would SS 304 (3mm) be OK for these lips - if not, best way to treat these SS lips (304 SS) for this application?

Splash!