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View Full Version : Two layer colour change weave in progress



Bearclaw
21-01-2007, 11:03 AM
G'day all,
Just started a colour change weave and thought I would do a pictorial report so if anyone is intrested they might try one themselves.
This is a simple colour change weave it has two layers, the fish a barra. The weave is 106 wraps and 51 design threads. I am using looms which will be available soon from Ross at www.therodworks.com.au (http://www.therodworks.com.au) made by DocSki who is probably the worlds best colour change weaver and weave designer.

Anyway the looms taped to the blank and marks lightly scratched on the blank.

Bearclaw
21-01-2007, 11:17 AM
First thread of the first layer in place, marked so I can identify it when laying the second layer of thread.

Bearclaw
21-01-2007, 11:29 AM
First picture. I fill the loom one side a time working out from the centre thread which is thread 27 in this design.

Second picture. Loom loaded with first layer of thread.

The thread I am using is Gudebrod size A for the design thread and Size B for the wrapping thread, using the larger wrap thread will prevent the design becoming stubby in its appearance.

Bearclaw
21-01-2007, 01:13 PM
First picture, another layer of double sided tape is layed over the bottom layer of thread and the second layer is then layed down in postion using the previous marked thread as my centre thread 27. The top layer of threads is only about half the amount of the bottom layer on this design.

Second picture, the weave begins. As this weave is going in between a split rear grip there is a lot of tensions/angles that usually don't get put on the thread as the weave proceeds due the confined space I'm weaving in. From now on the until we get to the gill area the advancing weave is hidden by the threads that are taken from the right loom and placed in the left loom. ( I weave from R to L ) At the gill area the head is exposed as the threads go back to the right loom so a few wraps can be place in to indicate the gills.

Lucky_Phill
21-01-2007, 05:02 PM
After watching Doc Ski's weaving DVD, I am at least able to ' sort of ' follow what you're doing Myles.

The step by step report is great. Can't wait for the finished product.

Cheers Phill

Bearclaw
21-01-2007, 05:15 PM
Yeah wish I could explain it better. Not as good as your flathead filleting video. Now I learnt something there.

aaron_gilmour
21-01-2007, 08:31 PM
Great work Myles.

I have done a barra weave before and will post a pic soon. I wish I had the loom you are using as dong it with double sided tape was hard yakka espeasially counting all those threads.. Just in the middle od a move from brissy to townsville so when set up will attach pic.

Cheers

Aaron

Stuart
21-01-2007, 09:41 PM
Myles

Your as sick as me mate, cant get away from the dam things. I can say this; they are a dam site better than doing cross wraps. Nothing wrong with cross wraps for all those cross wrap fruit loops “roz”. I like to do some thing not many people do. Good to see it unfold Myles, I may have to pick at it a bit mate.;)

Stu

wheezer
22-01-2007, 09:02 AM
come on mate more time fishing less time wrapping!!

Bearclaw
22-01-2007, 11:46 AM
Stu you can pick all you like, I blame this guy I met at a boat show for getting me interested in these. This is probably my six weave and 3rd colour change. I did this one once before but using E wrap and D design thread it came up ok, but working with A or maderia the multi layer weaves lay better.

Wheezer,
Don't you worry in a week or two I should know when I'm going to Monduran. Hope your feeling sick on those days.

sleepygreg
23-01-2007, 01:53 AM
OK.....Who is gonna Tartan wrap??

Bearclaw
23-01-2007, 04:37 AM
Sleepygreg,

Mark Fisher from Outback Rods in Broken Hill does the best tartan crosswraps.

roz
24-01-2007, 10:53 PM
Myles

Your as sick as me mate, cant get away from the dam things. I can say this; they are a dam site better than doing cross wraps. Nothing wrong with cross wraps for all those cross wrap fruit loops “roz”. I like to do some thing not many people do. Good to see it unfold Myles, I may have to pick at it a bit mate.;)

Stu

You're cruisin for a bruisin Stu!!!!

Myles, can I afford to become obsessed with yet another type of fishing rod binding/weaving method.

Just finished the wrap on the Touchy M&G rod.... not going to let Mr Nasty Stu see it!!!!

cheers r.

Bearclaw
25-01-2007, 07:42 AM
Roz if you have time for a crosswrap you have time for weaving. Not sure this is going to work out too well, seems like the fish is stubby, which shouldn't be the case as I'm using NCP B as the wrap and A as the design thread, me thinking C might have been a better choice. Won't know until the heat up here goes away, as you know sweaty hands and thread don't mix.

M

roz
25-01-2007, 12:36 PM
I know your 100% correct, I was only counselling myself.

I've just finished putting the preserver on my effort. Believe it or not, I did the entire wrap in 'A' and had absolutely no problems at all.

Between watching your weave develop and the Doc Ski DVDs, I should learn something.....

r.

Bearclaw
08-02-2007, 03:28 PM
Latest update,
Now since that hot weather has gone I was able to get back to the weave. This is how it appears so far without any tigthening and packing/moving the threads. There is a lot of problems with it, as mention in another post I should have used C wraping thread, using B has caused the fish to be stubby (impoundment barra style) Also the back the threads have spread towards the top, should have kept a slight downward presure on the threads. (not sure if I can fix this yet but I will have a try). It will come up a lot better after some tightening but still a pretty crap effort since my last.

Stuart
08-02-2007, 09:42 PM
The only critic worth anything is your self, if you can ever please yourself then you know your customer has nothing to pick or worry about.

Stu

finga
09-02-2007, 06:14 AM
The only critic worth anything is your self, if you can ever please yourself then you know your customer has nothing to pick or worry about.

Stu
How true is that Stuart.
I'm my own worst critic and sometimes it's peeves the cook to no end.

I'm liking the progress of the 'impound barra' and can't wait to see something be created first hand just so I know what's happening.
:)

Bearclaw
10-02-2007, 09:58 PM
Stu that is very true, but one off the biggest problems is that we see the faults but the customers don't unless shown and even then they still can't see the faults.

Stuart
10-02-2007, 10:42 PM
Dont show them the faults Myles. If you know its small and nothing to worry about dont do it. By high-lighting our style or degree of faults you are under selling your self and the customer may think he or she is getting an inferior product.

Stu

Bearclaw
12-02-2007, 08:27 AM
Ha Ha Stu,
But I know it's there, now honestly how many times have you fixed the tiniest imperection knowing the customer would never had noticed it.

Stuart
12-02-2007, 08:47 AM
All the time mate, But I dont tell the customer their is a fault in the product. ;)

Stu

roz
16-02-2007, 07:41 PM
Please bring it along to the RBW Myles.

We've all been following it's progress, even better to see it first hand.

Roz.

Owen
02-03-2007, 09:11 AM
Myles,
As I'm about to attempt this particular weave, I was wondering about your use of different sized threads for the X & Y axis.
You said that using a bigger wrap thread stopped the pattern from getting chunky, which I kind of understand the logic of.... The wider thread means the overall pattern will be wider.
What confuses me a bit though is that when you lay out a grid, you typically use the same size grid in X & Y.
"logically" then, each grid square represents an area equivilent to the thickness of a thread. This would mean you should use the same size thread in both directions.
Does the practice always fail the theory?
Or is it a case of "depends on the pattern" that only comes with experience?

Bearclaw
02-03-2007, 10:15 AM
Owen,
Is this Doc's pattern.
I used size A design thread and b NCP wrap. Size B NCP is about the same size as A metalic. As you progress through the weave you are packing the threads as you would a normal wrap, you need to do this a little harder because you don't want the design threads showing through, also it is bulky under the wrap thread.
I am presuming you are going to do a shilouette first. Doing a multi layer colour change isn't the best thing to start on. Another tip, do your first shilouette in nylon not metalic, as you will be playing with the thread a bit and the metalic will damage.
This weave should have worked out using the A and B NCP, I will post a piccy of it with CP on as I have not applied finish to it yet.
I would suggest using size A as the design thread and C as the wrap. If doing it as a shilouette use A NCP and C NCP and you will not need to use CP on the finished weave.

Stuart
02-03-2007, 11:36 AM
Owen

To answer your question mate, no. Both the design threads and the background being the black are not the same because it’s done on a gride. This is were some experience comes in. You first need to pick a design that will work on the desired diameter of the blank in question, this may be 18mm. You then need to measure how far around the blank you want the fish to go. Let’s say you want to see the whole fish, and then you will need to work out how many mm you need to do that. The blank is 18mm so I recone you will need the pattern to cover 10mm. Once you have this measurement the rest is irrelevant. By this I mean the length of the pattern will be what ever it needs to be. You need to concentrate on the depth of the pattern; once you have achieved this the rest will fall into place. You can work out the length by measuring the width of the threads being used. If you want to use “A” thread then you will need to base all measurements around “A” as your background. I personally use C thread for all my backgrounds and “A” thread for the pattern itself. The graph paper is based on the actual measured thread size and I then work with in those dimensions. If you’re coming to the RBW I will show you how to measure up for a weave.

Stuart